Scott Black

For what it's worth I can tune, have my own dyno, yet I'm currently building an rb2530neo and when it's finished I'll be installing the engine at home then paying to have it.towed to my work for the first time it fires up. I could very easily drive it into work and adjust a few settings as I go however an hours drive on a fresh engine with an ecu that isn't tuned for it is a bad idea. If it's at your tuners they can have the wideband in, fire it up and adjust settings to have it running optimal in no time and have the motor bed in properly. Where as we could tell you how to adjust settings, not be able to confirm it's right. Have you run to rich or to lean for an hours cruise at stable rpm to a tuner and almost garrenty you will glaze the bore from the Rings not bedding right.

Streeting automotive/360 Racing in South hurstville. I'll be upfront and say I own half of it. Yet out west Jem and powertune are both awesome. Also know a private guy who does alot of very good work from home in Campbelltown if that suits you too.can pm me for details.

Plausible however that's why you get the mains torqued down, honed and measured as part of the machining work

Nissan Japan 15 years ago

It's pretty much a metallic strip that is heated by applying 12v to it so for its first few minutes of operation its open then closes up.

Pretty sure there not compatible as the early spring sets for neo had to retain factory retainers and collets as they hadn't made aftermarket ones yet

Rb 30 has the valve in the block and rb25 has the valve in the exchanger, use standard filter on a 30 yet if you have taken the exchanger off a 25 then you need the 418 filter with the valve in the filter

HI all. Stuffed up rebuilding an r32 gtr gearbox for my gts4 and pressed second gear against mainshaft when taking apart by mistake resulting in chipping a tooth, Does anyone around Sydney have a spare second gear from a box they have pulled down there willing to sell me? Regards Scott

Ecu would need to be partial rewired and reprogramed to suit the differnt cas sensor, and coils and so on, yet can work. The injectors themselfs will work however the manifolds won't and the fuel rail.wont. Depending on if the injectors are hose tail like the original rb 30 or are proper top feed they may even just slot into the neo fuel rail as is.

Trial and error basically it's just a variant of the same colour as paint gets mixed in massive batches and sometimes there a bit off so after market paint company's will list differnt variants of it, normally in a panel shop you would make up a small quantity and check it against the car and if wrong try the other

Slightly different pin Heights may make the piston sit proud of the block

More the oil pump has the same crank nose issue on the neo as early 25s and end up with no oil pressure and a dead motor. No tune is going to help that, conservative driving will yet no fun in that. Pointless doing up what's a potential hand grenade without fixing oil control issues first.

Destroy the oil pump from one of there many issues to you throw a rod threw the block and destroy everything.

Another vote for hypergear, either there highflow or an atr43 bolt on depending on what your chasing, I have the atr43 g3 sat on my car and love it

Nope. He means literally a dome shaped mating flange

and now to add to that, there is also a limit of 20% increase over factory power output too, see point 2 on page 3 http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/roads/safety-rules/standards/vsi-06-light-vehicle-modifications.pdf however if someone was to have a dyno sheet with a run done at say 50% throttle you could say hey look this is proof that the motor makes less power than the standard rb25det

ended up getting 270 out of it at 20psi, had some boost issues where it would taper down to 18psi by redline, yet even after fixing that i wont be able to join this thread as limiter bashing a standard rb isnt good with there oil issues and i now need new big end bearings so rb30 time it is

Contact hypergear about turbo requirements and ecu, scotty for injectors and hypergear can recommend a tuner down there too.

if help was needed in the way of an rms auvis inspection station i am one.

Depends if your fuel pump has a check valve in it. It's not the reg letting the pressure drop yet it's dropping the other way back threw the pump. Unsure if that pump actually has a check valve or not yet that's why you loosing pressure rapidly once ign off.

not really and easy enough to loose when people swap engines around, unlike alot of other cars the one way valve isnt actually the connection on the booster, yet a little upstream, heres a pic i stole from another sau thread to show it its the little valve just behind the cap for the master, however pushing boost into the booster may have damaged it to yet you will find that out when you fit a one way valve

Contact npc I think there in qld or western clutch services in St marys, 5 or 6 puk carbotic button should hold it fine,

basically all working properly the booster should never see boost as stated above there is ment to be a one way valve in the line, if the booster actually sees boost the brakes wont work well at all. check the one way valve to ensure it works, and also make sure the booster isnt stuffed and leaking, as above where is the screaming noise actually comming from and when does it do it, idle, driving, only on boost ?

on this topic is nissan the easyest place to buy a 4th gear oem synco?