arrydjay

Sorry anyone in Australia that would have them in stock? The car isn't a daily, so I might just throw a haltech in and tune it on e85 and then when ive got more cash and if I can be bothered add the sensor and do the whole flex fuel setup.

Ok so on the topic of injectors, I just called a local ID dealer and they said that on E85 they would in fact recommend the sards because they have had issues with E85 eating away at the ID's. Anyone heard of this? Also what kind of dollars should I be paying for ID's and where should I get them from?

How much is the flex fuel sensor? I was going to have to pay my tuner to make two maps which is about $600 per map, so maybe it's worth putting that money into a better ECU and then getting the sensor. Fuel system is being upgraded as well, I've got a 255 walbro in-tank atm, but I'll just be using that to feed a surge and then another pump for the main feed. I'm buying injectors today, looking at 800cc sards would they be alright?

Guys, When I bought my R33 it looked like someone had changed the main ground from the battery, it is now just a 2G wire that goes to a bolt on the battery tray.. Im having power issues and I think it is due to this ground. How is it set up from factory?

Still in two minds about the ECU, tossing up between Nistune and PFC... Its just going to come down to whether or not I can find a PFC for the right price before Im ready to tune. What ECU's suport the flex fuel sensor?

Hey guys, So I just bought a new turbo setup (Hypergear SS3-EG, 6Boost manifold, 50mm Turbosmart gate) And Im going to bolt it all onto my R33 RB25 with Factory Internals. Im planing on running dual maps with one for 98 and one for E85 I have heard that E85 allows more boost to be run safely, but have no idea where the limit is. I was planing on tuning at 17psi for 98, what should I be running on e85? Also, the closest servo that sells ethanol to me is in fact caltex which is e-flex which I will use most of the time. When I tune the thing, I was planning on going and getting some proper E85, would it still be alright to run on e-flex after that, or should I do it the other way around? Cheers

this is going to be epic.... cant wait for it... gonna have to bring some extra tyres for this one

Got my mates 200 tuned by Toshi.... just waiting to throw my new turbo setup in before I take my 33 to him... I also made up some stickers for him to help spread the word.... If anyone wants one give Toshi a call. Available in a bunch of different colours.

I just did this in my gtst. I bought a second hand regular gtst diff and just threw it in.... everything fitted up fine for me, the only thing i needed was a new set of nuts and bolts to connect the halfshafts to the axles as the a-lsd halfshafts were threaded and the gtst ones were not.... Ripped out the pump and reservoir as well. At the time I just shimmed the new diff, but thats shit and only lasted a few weeks and I absolutely locked the fark out of it.... next mod is either a kaaz or nismo centre.

yeah who ever is doing this.... dont use gasket goo.... i used the stuff that said hard setting, but after a week it is still not set. It must need heat or something and you cant just whip out the blow torch on the fuel port. Going to have to clean it all up again and use sikaflex or something.

Is that my turbo above Stao? cant wait to throw that sucker on..... went from the simple idea of an $800 highflow to a completely new turbo, 6boost high mount manifold, 50mm turbosmart gate, new intake manifold, injectors & rail and a tune... bloody cars

so theyre not for sale anymore?

Haha dude, thanks for taxing my thread! lol Ive just bought a new turbo from hypergear...SS1PU, so ill try putting that on with new injectors and Z32 AFM and tuning it and see if that solves anything.

it doesn't miss until I jump on it but... I've got standard NGK plugs with a 0.8 gap I've only got the stock boost gauge atm and it was sitting about halfway between the 3.5 and 7 mark... Turned it down so that it sits just on the 3.5 mark.... it has helped a bit, but I can still hear it missing occasionally. I have found that once it starts to miss if I turn it off and let it cool down a bit the problem goes away for a while until it gets warm again...

This problem is really doing my head in now.... Can anyone recommend a workshop somewhere in Sydney where I can take this thing to get sorted....

plugs done 2000k's, already got yellowjacket coils, running a covered pod, replaced 02 sensor with a falcon one a couple months ago.. someone has told me to change all the hose clamps on the cooler pipes to those beefy bolt down ones incase it is leaking boost. My battery is a bit sus as well, could low voltage cause a misfire?

So I thought I had all my misfiring problems sorted but nope its back again!!! Now it is missing after I drive it for a long time on the highway. Usually driving to work and back i give it a bit through the gears and i dont notice it missing, but when I just cruise it on the highway for a while and then try and give it a hit it just misses like crazy. After I drop it down a few gears and take it to redline a few times it gets better. My theory is that it is running rich and fouling up the plugs, there is a fair bit of exhaust build up on the back of the car and I have seen unburnt fuel spitting out the exhaust. Any ideas what I should be looking at/changing?

Guys, I'm doing this now, but my fuel filler rotates completely, so I don't know which way to put it back in...do the two small holes go at the top or bottom?

Just thought Id update that shimmed diffs are shit.. It was super tight at first and made all sorts of f*kt up noises....after a week it has settled down and doesn't make any noises any more but it also doesn't lock up dualies all the time. On the brake it spins both and on left handers it spins both but right handers it peg legs for a bit and then goes. It's heaps better than the A-LSD but i would just rather a locker. I shimmed the hell out of it too with 3.3mm total preload.

Hey guys, So Im after a forward facing plenum for my rb25 r33 but I only want the top half and want to keep the factory runners. Is there any other options apart from plazmaman? On my rb30 I had one that ETM made by modifying the factory plenum but he doesnt do this anymore... anyone know of anything else?

yeah has one ABS sensor... diff seems to have gotten a bit better, it was really noisy and shaky at first...its getting quieter and smoother the more i drive.

So yeah it's actually an ABS sensor...the old diff had 2 and the new diff had one...I just wired up the one but the ABS light is on.. I know how the shims work and i know that its just increasing preload, but it costs $20 so i just thought ide try it first. Just went for a drive and the diff is tight as f**k...I think I might have gone overboard with the shims...it's making some weird noises and vibrations.. Hopefully it loosens up a bit..

If you had ever experienced an A-LSD you would know why....may have been good when new but mine was downright dangerous for drifting...it would single spin most of the time, but every now and then it would just go bang and kick out... Eventually I'm going to get a 2-way but they can't go into the a-LSD housing anyway so I had to swap it out to the regular gtst diff. I just thought i would try and go with the shims first and see how it goes....if its shit I'll pull it out and drop a Kaaz or nismo in. I've figured out the bolts....all I need to know is what to do with the wiring..I'm thinking now I might just hook up one of the sensors.

Hey guys, So my R33 GTST came with the Active LSD system. Since I want to go drifting I ripped it all out and replaced it with a regular viscous LSD and just shimmed the fark out of it. When bolting it back together I have run into a snag. The half shafts on the A-LSD are threaded so the bolts just go through the axles and into the half shafts. The new half shafts are not threaded, so how are they set up from factory? Do they just have a nut on the end? does the end go on the half shaft side or the axle side? Also the A-LSD had two sensors coming out of it...I think they are temp sensors or something, the new diff just has one.... Should I just splice the four wires into two and connect up the new sensor?

Took it to Toshi today and he figured it out.... He said the way the stock fuel pump works, it gets a lower voltage when at idle and low revs and then the full 12v at high revs. The Walbro apparently didn't like this so he wired in another ground so that it gets full power all the time. Problem seems to be gone....lets hope it stays that way.