Reedo

Hey guys, ran into a bit of a problem with my 33 build today, checking all the interior wiring and gave it a test. no power to windows or sunroof... *sunroof is a factory one btw so i pulled the door card off and there was no relay mounted where the internet said it should be... i cried a little but now im here to ask if they hid them somewhere else on the 1995 model (s1.5 i think it is) anyways picture of door where it should be so you dont call me blind. any help would be great.

over the weekend my r33 with r34 engine became a write off so now im chaseing a new shell as the engine is fine. so let me know what youve got. >would prefer a gtst shell >2 door preffered >33 would be good but ill take anything >budget = $1500 >must be registerable and in nsw

just saw a light blue r33 with black tail light sorounds leaving the train station at the university. sounded pretty good so i had a quick look, young blonde girl was driving it. thumbs up for girls driving skylines?

hey guys. been a while since ive been on, any chance there is going to be a meet in the next few weeks. due to lose my lisence for 3 months soon so i want to go out with a decent cruise before 3 long months of walking.

sorry to argue but when i put my neo in my 33 i had to get a new loom made up and had to run an r34 gt ecu.

Hey everyone. Need some help with my NVCS (nissan variable cam system?) So my mechanic took my 33 for a spin today (its running an r34 25de), he said due to my check engine light being on the 'vtec' isnt kicking in. is this right or is the sensor broken? check engine light is on due to the secondary speedo sensor wiring being lose.

bathurst

hey everyone. i know there is a thread on shaved boot locks but.... what if your boot popping cable breaks and you cant get into your boot. im planning on getting rid of the boot lock on my r33 when it gets resprayed soon but as i said what if the cable snaps or someshit (i have the worst luck). has anyone come up with a secondary method of getting the boot to open iincase this happens. any help would be great. weve been s[itballing some ideas on an magnatised lock that opens the boot if u disconnect the battery but the battery is in the boot. so that wont work.

i recently put a neo in my 33 after finding out the crank key way was thrashed out. the big costs are as follows: engine, wiring, ecu, clutch. all up i spend about 3.5k doing my conversion and its still not running right. before you go throwing anything in your engine bay do the water pump and timing belt, so much easier when its out. the engine goes straigt in using the r33 engine mounts, n/a 33s run the rb20 box which bolts straight up and you just use the 33 rb20 clutch kit (excedy). next you need to get it all wired up. buy a 34 engine harness and keep your 33 one. take them to a decent sparky or get them to come to yours like i did and they can wire it all up in a day. thread loom into engine bay and then connect everything up. hook up the ecu and then your down to the smaller problems. problems i ran into: need to get a custom accelerator cable made up as the 33 one is too short and i belive the 34 one is too long. mine cost 130 bucks. next problem was for some reason my neo runs the 33 CAS. you need to find out which one you need. the vaccuum hose that runs between the plennum and the brake booster needs a bit of man handling due to the 33 one not being in the same place as the 34 but with a bit of a shove itll work. finally dont let any of your mates that have no clue about engines help out. left one mate the job of doing the radiator hoses. didnt bother checking them cause i thought he could do a good job. 10 mins on the first drive the bottom hose came off. in conclusion its a shit tonne of work but it is nice rocking up to car meets and when people say 'ahh dw bout it its just a boring old rb25de' you can always pop the hood and show them what you did in your driveway with limited help and knowledge.

yeah after looking at currency conversion its looking like it might be a save up a bit, sell my 33 then get one imported.

yeah kinda the same reason i want one. dad got given a c110 non gtr (whatever theyre called) as a company car when he was working for optus back in the 70s (they wernt called optus then) and when he passed 2 years ago i bought my 33 but i want the old school gtr now.

oh i know restores will be alot cheaper, i was watching a finished one with an rb26dett last night on yahoo auctions go for over $200,000 australian... before importing costs.

i dont want to import and finished one though. theyre way too expensive plus i want a project car. how much do you recon a good starting point project one would cost?

hey everyone. as it always happens ive gotten bored of my r33. just cant find the enjoyment on working on it anymore due to the hastles it always causes. so now im thinking bout going old school to a c110 gtr. i thought i might do a full resoration and make one to look like my dads first and only skyline that he got brand new back when they first came out. but im having some troubles even finding old rusted out project ones so i was just wondering is it worth it or will it cost way too much in the long run? and any ideas where i can find a cheap starting point?

mighty car mods online shop. 60 bucks i think. also what n/a r33 runs 18 inch rims stock? mine runs 15s.

bmp

also i have a front bar in average quality but its not the usual stock one. its off the auto luxury model if there is such a thing.

hey everyone. need to get rid of some spare parts from my neo conversion to fund another project. > r33 non turbo manual ecu (spec s? 149kw stock) > power steering pump (no bracket) > ac pump (no bracket) > top timing belt metal cover off r33 all parts except the ecu can be interchanged with 34 (99.99% sure) open to offers but no stupid tree fiddy posts. located in newcastle. can post at your expense. also willing to swap parts for r33 turbo/non turbo front rotors (no warped ones)

just had to bring this back up. i know its a massive troll but if this setup was installed nobody has raised the issue that a normal tb is opened by a cable rotating it around a centre bolt thingy. if air was pushing on the whole tb it would stay closed. must say a big congradulations to everyone involved. made my night. if i ever have a spair intercooler and tb ill be trying it on my n/a just for the lols.maybe even cut open a varex muffler and use the butterfly valve out of it.

i have a 34 neo n/a in my neo so ill cap off that line tomorrow and take it for a drive and see if i notice anything at all. from following the lines i figured that it was a pressure release point and just into the airbox for pollution crap. because i have a 33 airbox my line just dangles underneath the airbox. but anyways ill post again tomorrow after a test run.

hey everyone. finally finished my r34 neo conversion into my r33 and it turns out i have a r33 cas not a 34 one. i need one asap. im happy to travel to sydney or locally around newcastle. if not i guess i can wait for post. inbox me with what uve got.

yeah. mine dosnt have that. mines just one bolt in the centre where you have two. i checked on a mates 1998 r34 gt coupe and he has the same setup as me. but dont worry. made myself some brackets today using aluminium and there in there solid as.

very simple question do the r34 gt rb25de neo run some sort of coil pack mount or do the coils bolt dirrectly to the engine block. The engine i purchased has splitfires in it but they dont bolt down. I checked the model of coil packs with splitfire themselves and they say i have r34 ones. if the na engines do run a mounting bracket where can i get one second hand?

needing either a: > r34 gt (non turbo) accelerator cable > z32 300zx accelerator cable - or any other cable that will suit connecting pedle to throttle body on my r33 with r34 rb25de neo engine. ive heard vl commodore ones do the trick aswell. located in newcastle, needing part by the end of the week.