The Sherrid

where are you located?

do you have a part number, or any more detailed information?

interested in the engine, pm me with a contact number. cheers bj

i just thought they were series 2 chasis with gtr gear put into them. like a conversion of sorts but i'm actually interested to know if they are officially marketed or sold as a series 2 GTR. anyone know?

I've done a google search, including images, have checked out the above links and cant seem to find any information on an R33 GTR series 2 or series 3. do they even exist?

I am selling my body kit moulds. they are the moulds used to make parts such as bumpers, side skirt's, wings etc. with a little patience and fibreglass knowledge you can mould and or mildly customize a kit for your car. I am happy to offer advice if your new to fibreglassing and moulds. As a member since 94, some of you know me from the forums, and others who have bought some of these parts may recognize some of this stuff. below are the pictures of the respective parts for sale as they appear on the cars fitted. All of these fit R33's and All parts can be made to your own individual strength needs including Carbon Fibre white 33 has the drift or stealth wing (3 pics) the made up part sells for around $200 charcoal 33 has the GTR front bar and GTR sideskirts (4 pics) the made up part sells for around $250 and $200 respectivly Morone 33 has the GTR grille (4 pics) the made up part sells for around $80 Greddy Trust Pod pillar guage mount (4 pics) the made up part sells for around $100 Black 33 has the Trust front bar with eyelids (1 pic) the made up part sells for around $250 I also have R33 GTR rear pods not pictured the made up part sells for around $60 each To help put things in perspective, A front bar mould to make would cost around $800 I am willing to split up some of these parts and others i would prefer to sell as a whole, ideally i would like to sell the whole lot as a lot for a largely discounted price of $1250.00 Individually i will part with, Trust front bar mould $400 Stealth/Drift win mould $350 R33 front bar mould $400 R33 GTR side skirts mould $400 R33 GTR grille mould $150 R33 GTR rear pods $200 R33 Pod pillar guage $150 feel free to email, writetobj@hotmail.com or phone 0413 714 354 cheers bj. PS: if anyone is interested i have a Toyota supra bonnet and side skirts aswell.

________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________ well i apologise for the delay but, it's better late than never. What actually happens is the climate control unit actuates the motor. when this happens the climate control unit is set to actuate the motor for a longer time period than it actually needs. Sounds strange but i put it down to 2 things. 1. It's a programing fault in the climate control unit from factory 2. It's designed that way so as to keep the vent door open while another operation is completed or a combination of both In either event, what happens is the motor reaches it's maximum travel and stay's jammed there while the motor keeps supplying force, After time, months years etc, the motors and it's gears inside eventually succumb to slippage and hence the click noise is the gears slipping. this click noise stops when power is cut off to the motor from the climate control box. Now it just depends on how your individual box copes with the strain, some will shit them solves early, some are louder than others and some are just a little tougher than others. you have 2 options. (Both require a pulling out of the dash) 1. roam around from wrecker to wrecker and hope to find one for the right price and hope it's not already stuffed. 2. The SURE FIRE method is to with the dash out, watch the travel of the motor and stop it just short of it's full travel by screwing in a standard screw into the plastic heater surround in between the motor arm and the bit of plastic at the end of it's travel. In effect you are now just putting the load on a part of the gear system (in the box) that is not worn. The best way to find this spot is to just hold the arm with your finger just before it fully closes. of course, eventually this part of the gear system will wear under the strain too. If you do it right you can still have the full motion of all the vents.

well this pulseing noise in dash for me has been narrowed down to this. on two seperate skylines the exact same noise and exact same climate control actualor (motor) has been the culprit. if you follow this link (same as above) http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/ and enlarge the picture with the foot in it you can see a little black box ontop of the big white plastic thing (the heather core assembly unit). this little black box held in place by what looks like 3 screws is actually only 2 - just to help you identify it in the picture. what it does is it controls the opening and closing of the vents from head to legs and if it is jamed bysomething will make that noise. the interseting thing is that on both skylines (both series 1) neither were jammed, in fact if i unscrewed the unit itself and had it resting in the palm of my hand it would still make the noise. so that eliminates anything jamming the vents open. then i pulled the unit apart to see if any gears inside were sliping or broken. what i found was that no gears were broken and or slipping in fact the unit is functioning like it should. also the little arm that comes off the unit which slots into the heater core assembly will only move 90 degrees. so when the little motor inside turns the gears and inturn moves the arm, the actuall arm travel is limited by the case design not by the motor. which means that the little motor inside wants to keep turning like 2 full rotations but the plastic arm has a stopper built into the case that makes it stop at a the open or closed positions only. so this led me to look at what was controlling the little motor iside the case. inside there is only a little motor and a resistor. so the circuitry controlling the motor must be inline somewhere. sure enough i stripped back the entire wiring loom to follow the 2 wires all the way back to the climate control unit and they go directly to it with no relays or anything else inbetween. So logically it must be the climate controll unit that is the problem. Naturally i tried another then another a total of 4 different climate controll units and none stopped that little motor from turning to far. so i went to some wild card ideas, took out anything that had been installed (not factory) i took out the stereo, the boos controller, then the turbo timer. still the same. I then made sure that all the earths were screwed in and tight. still no change. I then went on to change all relays, fuses and odd bits and pieces, all otrher modules associated with the heating and cooling, even the flasher can (i know the flasher can has nothing to do with this problem) still that noise was present. i then noticed that when the mode was set to legs only and the car was turned off and then on again it made the noise. then i noticed that even if i set the node to legs only then turned the climate control unit off then the car off and on again it still made the same noise. which indicated that the little unit was getting a stray signal or current through the climate control unit imediatly at start up. so now i'm calling in my auto elec friend to help i'll write back when i find the problem.

i'd be interested in making one if you were down here in vic and had a little enthusiasm.

I make them brand new for $250. unpainted and in fibreglass.

bump

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yeah the 220kw is at the wheels bud.

I am selling my baby regretfully due to moving on to begger and netter things. (house) 1993 NISSAN SKYLINE ECR33 GTS-T $18,000 negoitable Kms 84,616 blue - green 5 speed Manual rb25 Rego THX 431 reg until jan 2006 will supply RWC upon sale or deposit moderately modified engine, approx 220 kwatts, imaculate interior, exterior in very good condition. The Engine has been fully rebuilt, needs running in, aftermarket ACL pistons, head has been highflowed. new piston rings bearings etc, gaskets etc. Wolf 3D aftermarket computer and handset, 3 Inch exhaust, 17 Inch Volk racing rims, 4 puck cusco heavy duty clutch, blitz adjustable suspension front and rear, has sideskirts and rear wing. New battery, front end bushes, oil and fuel fiter etc. jvc headunit, gearknob etc. 0413 714 354

hey bud can i have some pics of the steering wheel to qndbodykits@hotmail.com

I don't want to come across as a idiot but you should check your local auto elec guy, i know one that can give me a reconditioned one for about that.

looking for an R33 altenator, let me know what you got either here or on 0413 714 354 cheers

i make the r33 GTR body kit. front bar $300 side skirts $100 each rear pods $50 ea.

i have a GTR side skirt brand new for $100 unainted.

sorry bud

$120 i think that we have been through this excercise before.

thanks funky monky, can you please send it to my email adress as its not so clear. qndbodykits@hotmail.com

I make the replica ones for $300 unpainted. 0413 714 354

I have a GTR front bar for $300 brand new unpainted 0413 714 354

i have a couple of them what colour?