The Sherrid

can you elaborate on the n-spec water pump, i've heard of n-power, N1 etc

ok sorry, um the sender unit on the box that i found is a grey plug. it has two pins in it and is located on the drivers side of the box about half way from the bell housing to the output shaft and is closer to the engine than the other two plugs, being the neutral and reverse switch plugs. It is about 5 cm in length protruding from the box its self. Your R34 should have the same two pin plug in the chasis loom that will have a length to match.

yeah that's a bitch! i'd be interested to know what valve seats you put in and what valve spring seat pressure your running. wing and canards look phat, when you re-registered the car as a 2 seater, i assume you had to produce a roadworthy? how ever did you manage to get that wing passed? i have an rb25 block if your still going that way. also, doing an rb30 bottom end for the first time so would be happy to collaborate with others who will actually do one and use it on the track.

spoke to gazelle D and its gone

how much for the heater core, postage to vic?

pm sent + phone call and messge and now an sms and a post. still for sale?

Seen these tyres and bought 2. thanks joe!

msports180 check out the first post in this thread pay attention to where it says "the speedo sensors have universal looms so they just plug right into manual/auto without any modifications." http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/page__gopid__6255171#entry6255171 Kenna802, pictures of which part would you like?

injectors work great. thanks blake.

would you consider an offer on the oil pump?

any news from gk-tech?

could you post some pics up? love to see it. cheers bj

pm sent about injectors

still have the ecu?

still have the ecu?

still have the gear knob?

+1 for pics and any more details on turbo cheers.

would you sell the knob?, if so any pics? cheers

can i have a picture of the gear knob and shifter boot please.

pic of the gear knob please

yeah i could imagine, safer than my approach though.

ok i sorted the tailshaft situation, I didnt realize the S2 diff had a ABS sensor in it which made the tailshaft a little short for my non ABS S1 diff. just a note for anyone wanting to do this on an R33, two posts i used the gave me everything i needed were, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/page__gopid__6255171#entry6255171 and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/285791-manual-conversion/page__st__20__gopid__6255165#entry6255165 To ROLLS i usually remove spigot bearings with a special puller however on the night i couldn't find the little bastard so i cut into the inner surface in two spots along its length with my nifty small air hacksaw (i hear a few sighs there) about 3 mm apart. i don't recommend this method for new people because its just to easy to damage the surface of the crank however i have steady hands to pull something like that off once. once i made those cuts as deep as i could without coming too close, i used a chisel to punch out the sliver i just carved and the bearing came out by finger. here are some pics.

First of all, thanks to SECURITY for posting up his information. The wiring stuff made the job heaps easier. some pictures posted by pal of the wiring needed to be done in the engine bay were a big help too. post referning to Pal's pictures is here -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/285791-manual-conversion/page__st__20__gopid__6255165#entry6255165 just to add my experience, i have a S1 and i bought the manual stuff from a S2. everything fit straight up except for the tailshaft. as i have now learned, the S2 i got my parts from had ABS and hence the diff snout is a little longer due to the ABS sensor so when i measured the rear half of the tailshaft from the S2 it was about 15mm shorter that the rear section of the series 1 hence will not fit. so i got a S1 manual tailshaft complete from my local wrecker and solved my problem.

as far as the wiring is concerned, i confirm what Pal has said above, if you look closely in his first two pictures, the top grey plug has two wires which need to be bridged (joined) just as his does. the second plug from the top also grey has 8 wires. 3 of those you will need. and they are the green the white and the black. when i wired mine up i went off this post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/ and verified the gearbox side wiring with a multimeter to check and i also confirm those results too. just to clarify a little. the black wire on that second grey plug from the top i used as a common earth for both the neutral switch and reverse switch. these two switches on the gearbox have two wires each so just join one of each to the earth (black wire) and the green wire to the remaining reverse switch wire and the white wire to the other remaining wire on the neutral switch. you can use a multimeter to figure out which one is the reverse switch by using your continuity function or you can by trial and error just twist them up temporaily with the ignition on and chuck it in reverse and see if the reverse lights come on. there is no danger in this approach of blowing anything as the switches have the same electrical characteristics and earth to the engine with no additional current. i also used this post in the diy which was helpfull too. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/139916-diy-r34-manual-conversion-using-r33-parts/ thanks Pal for your help too!!!!!

i'm doing the r33 auto to manual conversion and just trying to clarify the tail shaft situation. when i lay both tail shafts nest to each other, both are different lengths and the yoke that fits into the rear of the box is obviously different too. did you guys seperate the front halves and swap them around then balance the new tail shaft or did you simply throw the manual one in? if you measure carefully, you can see that the rear section of both tailshafts differs by about 15 mm from where it bolts up to the diff and centre bearing.