David_j_p

They have em on ebay. Looks like its for the later R34 not the earlier ones. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273696750074

After some normal driving and spirited driving on winding roads, I have not found any noticeable difference with pedal feel or effort required to stop up the Stag. The original S2 brakes where pretty good to start with. What I did find was a noticeable reduction in brake fade, especially with towing. When pushed the original set up would fade, but with these Sumitomos, they don't seem to get to fade point.

I'm comparing the Sumitomos to the twin pot fronts from the Series 2. They pulled up the old girl pretty well to start with. The pads also had a huge surface area compared to the Sumitomo. Yes I do tow, so the heat and fade thing is important. The R34 GTT brakes would surely be a noticable upgrade on an S1. They were pretty poor to start with.

Wasn't yours a Series 1?

I have a Series 2 Year 2000 model Stagea. After 8 years of stock brakes with a master cylinder stopper, I did the R34 GTT Sumitomo "Brake Upgrade" with brand new standard RDA rotors a couple of months ago. I'm now at the tail end of bedding in because I don't drive it much. From what I read up on, the BM50 that's stock on the S2 is isufficient, and it feels sufficient to me. There is barely any difference to brake pedal travel to me. Only yesterday, for the first time since the upgrade I used the brakes somewhat hard, and I'm not yet convinced that they will pull up the Stagea any better than stock. It's a bit early to tell as yet. So far the the only advantages from the upgrade would be: - Weight reduction because they are alloy. - Greater heat dissipation because they are alloy and the Rotors have larger mass, therefore less brake fade. - Won't be prone to warping because of the above. - R34 brake rotors and pads will always be readily available, and possibly cheaper, being more common. - The Sumitomos look sexy! Will post again in a couple of months with my final verdict.

Hey, I gave you correct number this time! Sorry about that

Ive debt sent you a message.

You still have these?

I'm in, so is my son and Stag.

My local windscreen guy can do the special glass for $350 installed. That includes removal and the freight to get the glass to him from the factory. So if you are still interested, I could try to get the manufactures details. I am just waiting for it to come in.

I dont have the light, nor the buttons on the wheel. its just a solid blank part. Mine was near mint when I got it, Im sure its stock and factory. Even though it was well looked after, it had no mods or new parts. It must be something to do with being a 25txfour. It does have snow mode and diff lock, and an atessa system, with woodgrain dash, xanavi, and velour on the seats and the door trim.

I live in Taree, NSW. Thats why im trying to get the Box type sorted before I get them to send the kit. Im also going to put a bigger oil cooler. I just did a search on the model RE4R01B and on the SAU forums, it says that its a S2 box. A is S1, B is S2. My steering wheel is stock, so its missing the paddle shift? Or do the tiptronics not have paddles?

Mine says RE4R01B RC40. So mines an S2 box with no tiptronic?

Mine was not cold immediately after a regass. Ill get the aircon mech to test thoroughly for leaks. A new TX valve might be the go too. Thanks Hugh.

Its a 2000. Is it the model number that will tell me what box? I have a pick of the blue plate here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=345288058948848&set=p.345288058948848&type=1

Thanks for your suggestions guys. I have an Xanavi system, and I ran the diagnostics, before and after the regass. The before was because, if I set it to 18.5, it was fully hot. If I put it on 18, it was cold, so no climate control :-) I suspected the sensors or the actuators. They returned no codes at all and when I made adjustments and watched the flap, it was operating as it should. One notch on the dial made the flap move one increment, it match every move, dial for flap. Anyhow the second diagnostic I ran afterwards was the same. Anyhow I gave up on the heating, in winter I dont care for the heating, but my wife has to fiddle with the dial when she is a passenger to stay comfortable lol. As for the cooling, I figgured if it was set to 18, and the compressor was running, then the aircon should be as cold as it can get. I will take your advise KiwiRS4T as this worked last time I wasted money on an auto elec for my skyline. The air con mechanic sorted it out right away.

My Stagea Air con is not cold, even after a regass. anyone else have this problem?My aircon is crap. I was wandering if it was a nissan thing or there is something wrong with it. I took it to an auto electrician who specialises in airconditioning. I told them it wasnt cold enough, and I didnt care how much it costs, I just want it cold! So they regassed it and put a dryer in it, and it made no difference. My 2001 Outback was twice as cold, im sure of it. I took it back to them and they said its as cold as they get. If i set the climate controll to 18 degrees even on a long trip on a mildly hot day, it doesnt freeze your face off. If I did this in my previous cars, it would get uncomfortably cold after 30 mins of driving. Im not convinced that its "normal" for the aircon to be so crap. Does anyone have cold aircon? Maybe I should take it somewhere else?

I Wander if anyone has some knowledge on this? I have been told I may have the S1 gearbox, as it does not have tiptronic. I am going to get an MV Automatics shift kit, and when I rang them they said they have never heard of an S2 auto that didnt have tiptronic. How do you tell the difference?

I might just go the tint way with the new windscreen. Surely they have a film available that has the IR blocking without the tint. Thats what the windscreen does any how. Its not tinted, but blocks out the UV and the IR. I was looking at below $300. When I looked at it years ago, it was about that installed. If there were numbers, we could probably get it cheaper. So the manufacture would make them and send them individually to the windscreen installer of your choice.

Im Looking at getting windscreen made from the manufacturer for my S2 stag (the one with the straight 6 neo). I have a crack that is growing :-( and will need to replace it. The special windsrcreen is supposed to block 60 percent of solar heat energy, by blocking out most of the infrared light. This results in a cooler car. I saw this glass at a windscreen place years ago, the guy had it in his own car and he said it was great, if you were happy to pay twice as much as the normal windscreen. Is anyone else interested in getting one? They would make them cheaper or bother to make it at all if they had some numbers. My windscreen guy is looking into it with the manufacturer.

Thanks guys. 0.7bar. and 0.8bar is 10 and 11psi. I'm running 9 and will take it up to 10 when it cools a bit in a couple of months, just to play it safe. I don't take it on a track lol, and live in a rural area with bugger all sets of lights, so I dont stomp on it very often, so my SMIC will do the job. Its just nice to have the power there when you need it or want to have a little fun! Just bypassing the boost solenoid with the boost tee and running stock. I put my boost gauge on before the MBC and (from Memory) found it would boost to 6psi at 2500rpm then switched over to 8psi art 4500rpm. After MBC I set it to 8psi, and found I got 8psi even before 2500rpm. This alone has made a big difference in power delivery! a couple more PSI and its a different beast. Great bang for buck! Ill look into a quiet 3inch all the way when I have some money. Its got to make a difference, particularly to the top end power, which my little mod has not gained very much of.

Home already? Sounds like you really are doing great, considering the surgery that you have had. Healing around the head is a slow process, but if you are now reading this at home, well done mate! And thanks to the Big Fella upstairs! Great to see you in good spirits, and wanting to do stuff, even though you probably shouldn't! lol. I am so happy for you, it brought a tear to my eye.

I have scoured SAU and the web and I did not find a answer to this. I have series 2 AWD auto stag, which is completely stock except for a manual boost controller which I have just put in. I know I will have a restrictive exhaust system (it is our family wagon, and I like how quiet it is), and I wont get much more power out of it, but it gets up to full boost and power noticeably faster now, and that's all I was after. Handy at the lights ;-) and for overtaking. Off the mark till about 40km per hour, it was slower than the Manual Subaru Outback that I used to have! Anyhow I am currently running 9psi. Can I go to 10 or should I be running less? Is back pressure going to hurt anything? Any advice will be muchly appreciated!

Amen to the Prayers! I can't even imagine what you are going through. My thoughts and prayers will be with you also. Life is a precious gift. When you have had your operation, and put this behind you, you will appreciate life more than you ever did! Too many of us take what we have for granted. Good things come to people who live life with the attitude of gratitude. I wish you and your family&friends peace and strength on the day, and a speedy recovery.