BuuBox

Sorry, no interstate buyers - in person sale only. Edit: No longer for sale. Please remove ad.

Oops

Will put some better photos up tonight - Vik got in first so he's got first dibs.

PM sent. My number is <removed>- After hours only please (leave a message otherwise, will call back).

1994 R32 GTR $12,000 (needs work) My priorities have shifted to a house so I'm putting my R32 GTR up for sale. Good points: 1994 build, imported 2008, I'm the second Australian owner Silver More or less standard, just 3" exhaust and ICS coilovers Fairly clean car, straight underneath A/C works, clock works Recently serviced, including new Splitfire coil packs Engine was replaced at some point in Japan with a R33 block (engine number RB26075xxx) Bad points: Engine is noisy when warm, assume spun bearing (still holds oil pressure) Dash has bubbles, drivers seat is worn, drivers doorlock is broken (has central locking/immobiliser so never bothered fixing) Paint is showing its age on roof and spoiler, small dent in rear LHS quarter 120,000kms on odometer (export certificate suggests closer to 190,000kms) $12,000 cash as-is where-is, no rego/rwc/plates. Car is in Elsternwick in Melbourne, happy for inspections most weekday nights. Needs some work but a good base for a project - I've been very honest with the condition. Firm on price. If it doesn't sell for this much, I'll garage it for a few years and come back to it. If you want them, comes with a few spares: R33 GTR wheels (painted badly, one needs to be repaired) Early R32 RB26 block (broken valve guide has gone through it but apparently otherwise okay) Replacement drivers side window regulator

Thanks for the suggestions, they're appreciated. Sabbadin is very convenient... I might give them and Racepace a call and see what they think. Wasn't me, sadly car hasn't been out in quite a while.

Looking for recommendations on a workshop in South East Melbourne to do some maintenance and repair work on my R32 GTR. Racepace springs to mind, but not sure if that's overkill for a stock-ish R32? Being 22 years young, a few things are showing their age - head seems to be getting nosier so need that investigated, needs HICAS removed, turbos checked, probably about due for a new clutch, timing belt is almost due, that sort of thing. Any suggestions?

Not sure I'd use a Ryco Premium filter on an RB. I'm sure they're fine, but don't they sacrifice flow for filtration? I use K&N filters, for the nut on the end more than anything else.

Rust will be your biggest concern. Why would you have to rebuild the head with only 40,000 kms on the clock on a stock example though? Doesn't make sense - add a 2 in front of the odometer reading.

Funny what you can find on a Google search. Archive.org has a archive of the auction listing for the "FUSSY" R33 GTR: https://web.archive.org/web/20110223220127/http://www.lexsimshauser.com.au/p197-nissan-skyline-fussy VIN is the same as the car in the link if you check licence plate on the TMR: https://www.service.transport.qld.gov.au/checkrego So OVA 300 was on the money. Doesn't mean the car is crap though, just that it has a checkered past (and a whole lot of money spent on it). Looks pretty good in the auction photos and even better in the current photos. I'd check the "rough underneath" carefully though!

If the engine couldn't maintain 4 psi of oil pressure at idle then you'd know about it - the bearing rattle and eventual rod out the block would be dead giveaways. Probably the oil light sender (hopefully for your sake). You should be using a quality 10W40 synthetic oil (e.g. Penrite Ten Tenths Racing 10W40), possibly a higher viscosity if you're tracking it without oil pressure and temperature gauges.

If you're really worried you could remove the fuel pump fuse and crank it over for a bit to get some oil pressure.

Without a functioning oil pressure gauge, or knowing the history of the engine, you should err on the side of caution and run at least a 10W40. Sump capacity is allegedly 4.5 litres, but put 5 litres in.

The timing belt might be a tooth out. Auction ratings are a great indication of condition, but your biggest concern with a R32 should be rust. You can throw in a R33 or R34 RB26 without selling a kidney; try getting rust repaired for anything less. The local car has the huge advantage of being able to physically inspect the normal problem areas.

Certainly well used even before the accident damage: http://www.skylinespares.com/?post_type=cars_currently_wreck&p=2017 Chassis 016988.

It was banned here in 2003, but is still allowed in lots of countries even now (e.g. USA, Canda, Taiwan). If the previous owner sourced pads online, who knows?

Timing belt is due every 100,000 kms. If you can't verify the odometer, replace sooner rather than later. How long ago were the coil packs changed? What spark plugs were used? You may just need to change the plugs if it's been say 30,000 kms and you used copper plugs. If not, stick with OEM or Splitfire coil packs and you should get 10 to 15 years out of them (i.e. stock coil pack life). Loom issue would be constant IMO, and you'll know if you need a new loom - brittle plugs, will be falling apart, etc.

Leave it. 4mm is very little. A few hundred ml at most.

There will probably be a simple explanation - e.g. the seller has misread one of the digits on the chassis number. Did they send you a picture of the ID plates? It would be a very elaborate fraud over more than a decade otherwise. Sounds like hard work to maybe make $10k over a 'normal' R33 GTR - the tart up job on the engine bay alone!

It's not the same car though, unless the Victorian registration in 1998 is an elaborate ruse. The VIN Vicroads has recorded is also the old style import VIN with seemingly random numbers. It could be a rebirth with that chassis number in Japan, or even an administrative error. Did they exist in 1997/1998?

Did you ask JHC to confirm? It does look very clean, has the appropriate plates for a 1998 registered car, and VicRoads has 1998 as the compliance year if you check their website. The seller also apparently has the rego papers from 1998. What build year comes up in FAST or a Nissan VIN interpreter?

Someone on here suggested that example had significant accident damage repairs: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440915-wtb-mint-r32-gtr/ It was on CarSales for a long time, strange given how good it appeared on paper.

All fairly easy requirements, except for number 2 - which is quite hard to actually find out, other than the engine number vaguely matching the build year.

Worth trying Castrol VMX 80 with Nulon G70. Easier to find than Redline (and much cheaper).

Just to clarify, I wasn't defending winding 110,000 kms off the odometer. I do think it's worse to tart up a R grade car with accident damage, dubious modifications and rust and advertise it as "mint" and "unmolested", compared to taking a reasonable 3A grade car and lopping off the kilometers. Both ultimately amount to fraud though. Sorry for derailing the thread slightly. That R32 came up on my Youtube front page and I had to share its horrors.