ClassOne

Checked out the AC filter... no date or anything on it. slightly off topic found this behind the glove box no idea wat it does, got some switch on the right side of the centre console...its doing something, but at the same time nothing ( obviously with the TV) anyway, back to topic

I'll so a service on the box, I'll use penrite 100% synthetic, it is matic J compatible.. Dno what you guys think of penrite, but I even use it to oil my BBQ.. (Jokes right) Is the filter a gauze type? So it is serviceable, no need for replacing?

It only does it when going into Drive... Into Reverse it doesn't do it at all. I can't be sure if its ever had a box service.. Has only done 70K, Any ideas other the a routine service?

Slightly under 650 rpm then once in gear with food on brake it drops to 550rpm

Penrite also make a compatible oil for matic J which is full synthetic. I payed closer attention today when I put the car into Drive... The clunking seems to come from the rear.. Obviously the diff has backlash.. BUT the car lurches Forward when it does into Drive. Sound strange?

Haven't changed that filter, I'll have a look at it after work. If something is written on it, I can only imagine what it might say. Cheers for the help man

So I purchased it in march 2012, from Japan through none other then Nagoya motors.. Don't get me started.. Its a 2003/5 nm35. I can't be sure that they did service the tranny, only going off what they said ( we usually service the box as well bla bla ) I suspect that the KM's are very wrong. What car needs 2 front wheels bearings and a front BJ replaced at 60,000?? And now it needs a FL CV shaft repaired.. AND the motor has now got a ticking noise going on (It's not injectors firing) The car is my wife's car, she doesn't flog it, I don't even flog it ( got an S13 for that) As you can see I'm not really happy with it, the last thing I need now is a box issue.

So I got my nm35 with 45,000 on the clock, It's now got 70,000. And in the last few months, when shifting from park to Drive or from reverse to drive, allowing sufficient time for the ecu to do its thing.. It has started clunking when you initially accelerate. ( like tickling the throttle is telling it to wake up, and so it quickly puts it into 1st gear for you) It's started to give me the shits now, it never use to do it at all, it's just progressively gotten worse over the 2 month period . Does it when it's cold, does it when it's warm. Why would this just start to happen? It apparently had a box service before I purchased it (from a dealer) Just to comment on point 3 from previous posts. I know exactly what you mean, if you dont get yourself a throttle controller, the only way around it is to anticipate your overtake, apply a small amount of throttle to get the box to shift into 4th, ( boost gauge will read zero, then only apply 50% throttle .) that will get you into 3rd right in the guts of the torque band and is plenty of power to blast past your Sunday driver I find if you mash it to the boards it just revs it's bean off dropping back to 2nd, so now it's out of its torque band and all it's doing is making alot of noise so to speak.

Anything under 8.5" wide is not even a worthy upgrade IMO. And if your into handling, make sure your 20's are not Tempe tyres/ taleb tyres / ozzy tyres specials. Stuff I could cast a better circle in my daughters sand pit! Better have bucket of lead to balance the suckers to. Really a well made 19" is the performance limit. Anything over your adding to much Unsprung weight and tyres will cost you a heap. Just my 3 cents

2.5 NA and 16 + L/100 My vq25det gets between 10.5 and 11 L / 100km I always run 98, BP or shell only in that order. Running rubbish 91 on an engine will over 11:1 comp ratio is a bit silly. You will also be using more throttle to keep it going which = more fuel consumption. If it drives like any other M35, you need to be super sensitive with the throttle, if its dropping back a gear from 5th to 4th all the time you want to speed up a little, then your throttle movements are to great, on the turbo models you can monitor the change point with the boost gauge... As it comes up to ATMO 14.6 psi .. Or zero on the gauge, that's your limit, go over zero and it drops back from 5th to 4th. Pivot and blitz make throttle controllers that can help with this, cost you around $200 to your door With NA, the power and economy will be had in the exhaust and intake .

Just give them a call, very helpful guys. Good choice in pads BTW, used them in a few of my cars. And AUS made

The question you have to ask yourself before you do any mod is, what is the cars main use, why i want to do the mod and what are the benifits/gains? If its a track car.. I don't know why you would choose a stagea as a base for a track car, but anyway. (Just for discussion) Go to town, scrap electric seats, sound deadening, carpet, FRP and titanium. But if its a daily driver/family wagon. You would have better gains dropping a drill bit through the boost solenoid then ruining a well built factory machine. Weight reduction belongs on a race track.. And it's the only place you will see any benifits without adversely affecting the driving experience

Would recommend a trans cooler or a oil with a higher hot value

My m35 only gets 580 from a tank . 80L but only approx 72L usable. It also has the atezza ets sys . So full time rwd with torque split as required. OR synchro mode with something like an 80/20 split at the flick of a switch.

Picture would help also

My M35 stag had the same problem. Showed it self on a rainy day. Do you have 3 child seat restraints fitted in the roof at the rear? In the M35 they drill through the water Chanel to install them! Forehead slap! Which would have been "ok" except the water doesn't stop flowing down the Chanel just because the safely anchors are installed . I had to pull them out and seal under the mount plate with silicone. All fixed, was just lazy workmanship . Make sure you just put silicone under the plate and around the hole, and NOT between the plate edges and the channel edge. Water still needs to flow down the water channel if required.

Rebuild turbo is 800 + , getting it out and re fitting is another story. If you can't DIY expect to pay a hefty fee.

I'd be consulting a wiring schematic before you go ripping something like that out. And why would you want to ? Weight reduction? Not really worth it IMO

I'm sure this topic would come up in the search function. But blitz nur touring cat back for the quietness

Your car doesn't need a tune up, there isn't such thing with factory management, it is not tunable. Don't be fooled, all you can do is keep it well maintained in the servicing department and save yourself some money on that "tune up"

In the end of the day, a mech shop is not going to diagnose something over the phone, they want you in their shop so they make some cash off you. Dyno? Is he serious? Unless you didn't tell him it was factory management? But as mentioned above, run the diagnostic, get the fault code, replace the relevant sensor. Car will be back to normal. Just so you know fuel doesn't go into a turbo.. Unless you have anti lag installed ... That would be interesting. Good luck.

or just block it off

Does it get worse when you turn? If I can translate your "vrrrrr" it might be the CV joint, they also have what seems to a bearing in them on the outboard side of the shaft

The part number is listed in that diagram 39101(LH) for the inner boot. You can buy it on its own. Is that confirmed 100% that the inner left and inner right are different boots?

It seems hard to get the nissan OEM part number, if you get it let me know, I'm chasing them to