ClassOne

So I got the job done, Got the latch mech out in one piece , I took some pics of the process to show how it's done, because if you don't know it's a real pain doing it. Will post them up with a brief description so the next guy can have it done in under 1 hr.

Sorry about my bad spelling above, kinda paint a bad picture.. was on my phone as well. Ive got another motor and module here, changed the module and the issue is still there, now for the motor, if its not the motor then its the button... please dont be the button!!! ill attempt to pop the lower outer panel off.. i swear i was going to break it yesterday ... Thanks for the tips guys.. will let you know how i go.

Thanks josh, sounds like a royal biatch! If I can remove the lower boot panel in the outside I'd have clean access, I've take off the clips on the trailing edge so I can see under it a little, but I just don't want to break all the clips that hold the rest if that panel in. You have that same problem?

Can anyone give me tips on how to get access to the boot latch motor? My boot intemitantly doesn't work, I've replaced the control module , and no change. It's either the button or the micro switch on the motor . But the plastic under the interior cover is moulded 1 piece and the gas strut and hinges all bolt through that plastic. Tries to pop off the lower tail gate outer which is plastic, but I'm to the point where I'm going to break the clips that hold it in. Anyone got any knowledge of this? I'm pretty much out of ideas . Taking the whole tail gate off the car to change the motor just seem really dumb, I'd expect that from KiA or Hyundai

Hey Scotty, how much you after for FLHS CV shaft complete?

im so glad i noticed this thread the other day.... wife woke up to go to work this morning, and same thing.. nothing working, exactly the same symptoms as above.. i do have one additional question... how the heck is water getting into the foot well? are there any known places and preventatives..as its the wifes car id like this not to happen again if possible.\ really makes to box shift terribly as well.

Wow that's a real smart thing to say tom. I guess then if I'm new you to SAU you could only assume this is my 1st car as well right and that I'm 17? And since that you have over 1000 post you would be considered a car god right? Like to also mention that there compliance is done in house... Child restrains are a part of that compliance.. 1st bit of rain we had the boot started leaking water in... Why you may ask... Because the blokes installed the mounts in the water Chanel and didn't seal it, water ended up down inside the boot, behind the tail lights and in the carpet... Amature hour at the least

Cody isn't there anymore, NEVER BUY from Nagoya! My car with a supposed 60,000 km on the clock, had less when i brought it, it's done 2 front wheel bearings, front CV joint gone, turbo gone, replacement is on its way out already! Not replaced that long ago. A well built jdm car should not flog out all that stuff in sub 60,xxx km's!!

Seem to only happen after alarm was installed, had a scan done on it twice.. No codes.

i reckon thats my issue then, non CAN bus alarm on a CAN bus system...

thats the thing, the screen is not really accurate, well in my car i dont think it is. it also stops metering when the fuel light comes on, but when it does there is still approx 10L left in the tank. i get about 650k's to full empty, thats re filling the tank with 72L of fuel.. pretty much 8L of fuel is unusable. and thats HWY driving! i reckon my economy is up to shit though, and i reckon its because of the alarm system installed. (Mongoose M80 G) ever since its been down on power and fuel consumption has increased. i only get 150km (average) out of a 1/4 tank and i drive the car to get best economy. anyone know is the M35 is CAN bus?

I'd run the full tank before you work out the economy. That's just me though

Just want to clear something up here.. You supplied the mechanic with the wheel bearing? If not guarenteed he didn't change it for $270 including parts considering the bearing is around $250 alone

Thought I should mention that the torque gauge was also not metering weather it was in standard or synchro mode

It was on all the time

I had 4wd light come on in my M35, ended up being the diff pump crapped out, got it rebuilt under warranty, all good now.

Stuff replacing it with a second hand item. I did it and the turbo is on its way out again, they are a heap of rubbish in standard form

What sort of economy are you getting? The most you will ever put into the tank is 72L. Nissan states last 10L is really usable. My 250 t rs4 gets just under 10L/ 100 . The economy really depends on your driving.. The throttle is very sensitive. Watch the boost gauge... If your driving along and want to pick up a little speed, apply accelerator and watch boost... You will notice that from 5th gear, when boost exceeds ATMO, box will drop down a gear. If TP is large and boost increasing rapidly, the down 2 gears and so on. You can get a plenum spacer to help with this... Also if you hate your delayed throttle , blitz make a module to fix this. Exhaust is rubbish... Get a new front section, and a jap cat back, I'm going for the blitz nur touring system. Coilovers, Cusco make a set in there zero comfort series... Upper mounts are a nolethane .. So nice and quiet .

Like you said, it's been discussed many times. Use the search function .

If there are 2 receivers within a small vicinity and 2 transmitters operating on or very close to the same frequency, as soon as 1 transmitters signal becomes equal to the other,both receivers will pick up both transmitting signals, once one signals RF becomes stronger then the other, it is now the priority. Interference standards means nothing really, RF doesn't care, if your on its frequency it's going to listen.

3000rpm ^

My point was why pay $1600 + for a cat back NISMO system when you can get Blitz, fujitsibo or kakimoto cheaper. Put them on a dyno and you will see that you just wasted $400 + I personally after putting a kakimoto hyper N1 exhaust on my S13... Would be more then happy to buy another one of their products. At 80 - 110km/h and under 300 rpm, (typical hwy driving ) it's throaty but not loud at all. But once you put your foot to the boards it really lets you know it's there. This is a well designed system.

Pretty expensive, can get jap brands cheaper locally

Also forgot the engine developed a what "sounds" like improper shimmed solid lifter... If you know what they sound like, in both banks. Also getting looked at under warranty... As you can see , it would really hurt if you didn't have a warranty to cover you.

It's like every car, there is always the chance of getting a lemon. BUT, they are a great car. Had mine for about 6 months. Had a few issues, not sure if they are all common. Make sure you get a good warranty plan if going thru a dealer. Under warranty I've had replaced. Diff pump crapped itself. Both front wheel bearings Drivers lower control arm (ball joint shagged) Apparently you can't buy the joint on its own. So new genuine Nissan arm ( expensive I bet!) The arm is all alloy. My boot lock randomly doesn't latch/open (Getting looked at now) Turbo is wining and has blown seals. All this stuff happened within the 3 month/5000km dealer statutory warranty period. But is only getting sorted this week Make sure you ask to see the car up on a hoist , rust in the belly can be a major issue and one not easily seen for obvious reasons, as you probably know, japs salt the roads in winter... Drives very nicely, goes like the clappers for a stocka. If your mum wants a wagon, it's way ahead if its time, even compared to some 2012 models you see today.