ClassOne

So you learnt the hard way, I don't know how many times I've told my mates not to buy those shit china kits! Just go buy a core and buy the fittings and line from speedflow or who ever you choose, and make the thing yourself. Your yum cha kit leaks because the fittings are not matched. They are not hydraulic fittings. Inside the fittings should be a 45 degree taper Male and female respectively to couple together and make a mechanical seal. Look at your relo plates, there is no taper at all. The oil pressure just forced the oil thru the threads and leaky leaky. Buy Australian , buy speedflow, don't winge about the money, because as seen here, you end up doing it right the 2nd time. Good to see you learnt a valuable lesson and also thanks for a detailed post, maybe no guys will think twice before being Jew bags and wasting there money in china on inferior products that clearly will never ever work.

Fuel light on dash

The actual manual says that the last 10L may not be usable, so when mine show empty on the display, mine has usually done about 570km And I run it comfortably up to 630km When filling up after this the most it has ever taken is around the 73 - 74 L mark Fuel light also comes on super early, from Memory ( wife's car ) it's about 100km till empty,

agreed ^ its great not having to slam the boot, doesn't wake my baby girl when she's asleep.

The Elgrand's have em aswell. tired i phone. no love.

pictures might help your cause

yeah i know about the release, which would come in handy if i could actually shut my dam boot! i know these cars have super sensitive electrics, but a simple splice in the harness for the trailer harness could not have an affect on the boot latch could it. they would be different circuits....

Hey guys, ive got an NM35 Stagea, and randomly the electronic boot latching mech decides not to work. i pulled the fuse and it started working again... 2 days later, it stopped working again. any ideas or tips to what could be causing this? only happened since the tow bar was installed... but they shouldnt have touched any wiring to do with the latch.... anyone had this issue before?

It's funny that the only cars mentioned to have cracked rear frames didn't have tow bars Your comment makes no sence as the bars are only rated for 70kg or so down on the ball, and the pulling force is not directly linked to the sub frame. If the trailer trailer/ tow ball height combination is level and the trailer is loaded wIth it's weight over the axel then there will be no issues.

There seems to be a fee topics on this with no real useful info..... I've scouted these forums and found only 1 company in Sydney (fast fit) that will do towbars for M35's , I wasnt really happy with a 3hr fit job and a 1200kg bar I end up using south coast towbars @ Unanderra Cost $700, bar is custom made. And the work is great! Took a day and a bit to complete, Tongue sits nice and heigh so my trailer is nice and balanced on the ball. Rated at 1500kg Highly recommended. It's a 1 man shop So the service is ace. Btw, you may read that towbars cause rear sub frame cracking... That's just not true, there is no way any bar install will go near the rear subframe Myth busted!

I've scouted these forums and found only 1 company in Sydney (fast fit) that will do towbars for M35's I end up using south coast towbars @ Unanderra Cost $700, bar is custom made. And the work is great! Took a day and a bit to complete, Tongue sits nice and heigh so my trailer is nice and balanced on the ball. Rated at 1500kg Highly recommended. It's a 1 man shop So the service is ace.

Picked my m35 up from south coast tow bars yesterday, the job is so tidy, very happy with it, whole bar is hidden but the tongue, I got the tongue put nice and high, 465mm from ground to top of tongue plate to get a nice balance with the trailer, it rides flat and tows beautifly . And fuel economy is still up near 10km/100 with the trailer and about 400kg loaded in it. Bar cost $700 I'll post some pics later on

in NSW an engineer has to pass the bar if its a custom made bar, if its a mass produced bar the original would have been tested and passed and so all subsequent ones would "pass" and come "engineered" dont know about the fitting of it though.

$250 - id be skeptical...dropped my car off this morning, pick up tomorrow. ill post come pics and let you know what i think when i see the finished product. from a quick look under the rear, they said 1500KG is not a problem. happy days

Ha ... ive been on the phone all day trying to sort one for my M35... fast fit.. fast fit... hmmm ahhh NO. anyway i found a guy just near Wollongong who will custom make one for $700 i asked if he could design it to take 1500kg breaked, he said he might be able to get it up to 1700kg , he's done a few before, he's a nice bloke and he speaks english. im taking my car down there tomorrow, and because its built from scratch, its a day and a half. Fast fit said 3 hrs. ill let you know how it all goes. i dont like using big companies with massive turnover..(thats just my choice though) you dont get the service and i bet all the wiring is stripped, twisted and taped up.. FAIL! anyway - south coast tow bars unanderra is where im going. stay tuned

I do a fair bit of hwy driving, I've only just brought mine , done 1 and half tanks of fuel , 1st tank I got 650 km's . BUT, when I filled up there was still 11L left in the tank, the fuel light comes on super early, at around 560km's. SO this tank I should get around 740km from a full tank, that's pretty much to vapour though. I get the economy up to 10.2km/L on the trip computer, don't know how accurate that is though. Rust is a big problem. You need to get a good look under neath, like on a hoist. Check chasis rails, there is a cover around the exhaust and center muffler, if it's rusted it needs to be removed to inspect the actual exhaust system, front wheel bearings flog out fairly soon, drivers sway bar link is common to start knocking. Turbos are a known problem, I'd recommend to buy off an importer , if something goes wrong they need to fix it ( in the 1st 3 months/5000km) And then the warranty kicks in. Eg, the diff pump in mine just crapped out, doesn't cost me a cent. Got a nice loan car, happy days. And for the price I payed and for what's out there for private sale, was no question with which way to go.

Yes yes insurance.... Import, your under 30, your under 25, and your under 20, your on your P's Due to your age you won't have a no claim bonus.. Just be perpaired to be raped for full comp insurance, I'd expect you will be paying over $2k full comp/yr or there abouts. So shop around. As you said the biggest engine you can drive is an N/A 6 cyl on P's. Bloody heck I brought all my cars including my 1st... Go buy an r31 or an NA s13 for a few grand.. Leant about them. Even Better something with carbs to learn the basics. Nothing wrong with simple old school 1st car, man

You can test the speaker wires with a 9v battery, simply place one wire on the +ve and touch the other to the -ve terminal .once you find the pair of wires for a particular speaker ( nothing will happen if you dont have the 2 wires for the same speaker...look at the diaphragm/cone to see its pulsing outward so you know the signal is in phase, if it's out of phase the cone will move in reverse. Label up and wire accordingly, also use solder and heat shrink, never twist and leccy tape. You will have issues down the track

I'm pretty new here, and new to stagea's as well.. A full devide would just be stupid, though I do have one suggestion ( I may have missed it) but alot of the C34 and m35 info seems to be in the same thread.. Which to someone new like me who is trying to find m35 specific stuff is a pain in the ass, yeah I'm interested in c34's to an extent but I don't want to know them inside out, otherwise I would have brought a c 34 instead of an m35. Have the same forum but post eg.. M35 brake upgrades or c34 brake upgrades instead of a mush in one post. My 2 cents worth

Wheel balance issue? Wheel bearings ok?

Location? i use Camden Engineering, great guys and they are more then happy to help out guys with small jobs. ask for Kevin... tell Joel with with drift Corolla sent you he will sort you out.

I also disagree with the whole coilover thing making a harsh ride, in the end your benifits are usually a reduction in weight and tunability, harshness comes from incorrect spring rates and hard dappening settings. While I'm here, can someone tell me what the stock F/R spring rates are on the M35 250t ? Also what the standard rates are on the BC c/o for the same model?

meah if its cant be done that way then there has to be an after market device that can be patched into the factory screen without interrupting the other functions. 4 figures... f**k that,,, just use my head... costs nothing you can get a garmen gvn for $450 no offence at all intended... but 4 figures... really?

F me .. All the geeks in the world and getting the sat nav to work in oz is like trying to get to mars! What a joke. So this seriously can't be done? At all? So devo right now

Body of a super model interior of a prozzie