Shoota_77

Man it must be amazing to see a brand spanking new paint job on a GT-R!! Would be the final piece of the puzzle to make it feel like a new car all over again! Your dad is a legend for being into them and you for helping him! Great to see.

Brilliant @BK! Can't argue with that crystal clear logic! I feel a whole smarter for having read it! 😁

$70 posted from a guy on Facebook. Very much a bolt in thing with only minor mods required.

Yeah they do look good. I think I'll support Aussie made though and go with the Frenchy's setup. I'll most likely decide at the last minute when I actually go to buy it! I have a tendency of changing my mind at the last minute! Cheers.

2 factors at play here. Firstly the hose looks like it’s too big for the barb on the regulator. Secondly those are junk hose clamps and it is too big for that size hose. Get a smaller clamp. Cut the swollen end of the hose off and start fresh if there is enough slack in the hose.

Fu(# you winter!!!! That bad boy should heat things up a bit! At $450 I couldn't refuse. I've got a pot belly but by the time to fire it up and the heat eventually radiates through the metal you're an hour in and over shivering! This thing it was comfy in 10 minutes and jumper off in 20! Bought a little offcut (2400×1200) of aluminium to practice welding on.... Chopped up a few (heap) of coupons to get started with. Just need to tidy them up then get tiggin. Having a few issues getting my girdle machined down to suit the PRP brace. I think I'm in the too hard basket at the machinists. Like everyone at the moment they're flat stick and prioritising the low hanging fruit. I'm lofty fruit at the top of the tree me thinks.... Ah well, been busy motorbike riding plus building bunks for the kids in the caravan so not short on jobs to do... The motivation dissipation is the biggest worry.

You would only replace the pistons if they were all rusty, scored or generally just worn out. I've done some pretty old calipers and NEVER replaced pistons. Seeing brake fluid is sort of an oil it generally keeps the bit that matters on the piston free of rust. The only exception is if the brake fluid on the car has never been replaced and has sucked up a heap of water (brake fluid is hygroscopic and sucks moisture out of the air over time or if the cap has been left off the reservoir). That's the main reason you replace the fluid regularly - water gets in brake fluid, water boils, creates hydrogen/oxygens which obviously being gasses compress unlike liquid which in turn gives you a shitty (spongey) pedal feel.

There may be slight variations to these but should be enough info in here to get you going- Very easy to find seal kits. That’s all you need. Just reco any pins and bolts. Torque settings - tight! I’d imagine the bolts hooding the two halves are around the 30-35 Nm mark.

Yeah the way I look at it, it shouldn't cause dramas to block it as the system is designed to hold a high amount of pressure once the diff has been "active"-ated. It's a high pressure activated system so it really shouldn't make a difference whether the pressure limit is reached at the fitting on the pump when blocked off or in the hose that attaches to the diff to activate it under normal circumstances.

Hi guys, searched all of the topics but can't find anything about what people do with the hydraulic hoses when removing the Active LSD from an R33 GT-R (or factory optioned GTS-T)? My thoughts would be just to replace the banjo fitting with a "blank" which could be machined up or just whack an AN outlet banjo on it and whack a cap on it. Has anyone done the removal and have any tips on how they went about it? Thanks. EDIT - I did find these photos from R31Nismoid (had plenty of keyboard warrior battles with him over the years...) where he did it and looks like just banjo blanks blocking it off- Will look into that a bit more when I go to do the change over.

100% justifies the asking price…. Makes me want to enquire to find out more. It really got the juices flowing!

How dare you use logic to fight stupid...

@Dose Pipe SutututuI don't know much about the SSR's, are they just a single output? So if you had two pumps (ignoring lift pumps from this) you wanted to stage separately you would need two separate SSR's? Or is the idea that you stage both pumps together to control them and their output as a pair as opposed to running one flat knacker all the time and then staging the second pump?

Understand it’s not brilliant but don’t stress mate. It has zero effect on performance so don’t worry about it. You’ll have an intake pipe or air cleaner over the top of it so you or no one else will ever see it. Base your opinion on the performance and reliability, not the aesthetics. There are bigger issues to stress over than something that has no effect on anything! Bolt it on and boost it! It will be the last thing on your mind once you’re smashing it up the road!

Ha ha, all good. I think he should use your slogan! I'd have no right to get offended by anyone in all honesty. I knew the risks and still did it so my head is on the chopping block of public ridicule if anything goes wrong!

100%! I'll still back his product if mine doesn't shit itself but he ain't no people person!

I'm not going to comment on the right and the wrong of each side of this story as I can't remember WTF my car keys look like let alone the ones hidden in my gearbox but I do have my suspicions on who this mysterious new member is. Based on my recent experience with an Aussie based transmission parts supplier where a certain member of that business showed complete and utter pig headed arrogance to not back down even when confronted by irrefutable proof that he was wrong, added to the fact that this stoic new member is commenting on transmission and diff posts, I surmise that we are dealing with a Mr Alex (Aleksandar) Kantarovski of Speedtek fame. I could be wrong but I recognise south eastern European unwavering blockheaded arrogance when I see it!!! 🤣🤣

The grout is a no brainer, the brace is a bit different as the cost and effort involved is a lot higher once you factor in machining, etc. At the end of the day it's like an insurance policy. You hate paying for it and hope you don't need it but bloody thankful you did have it when you needed it!

God it would be nice to own a car that runs to be able to attend car shows.....

My experience counts for zero as my engine has done no more than idle in the shed but I've done the grout fill to the base of the welsh plugs. The lower part of the engine is the most common (only??) place that the blocks crack so makes sense to me to do it. The hottest part of the block (top 4 inches where combustion happens) is not affected by grout so I see zero issues there. I really see no downsides to it so if it only made 10% improvement surely it's worth it for the minimal expense of doing it. I look at this way. If I cracked a block and HADN'T done the grout, I'd never forgive myself for not giving it a fighting chance!

Block and gridle should be back from the machinist later in the week so hopefully I can get cracking on reassembling the engine over the next few weekends.

Cheers for the response. Yeah I'll probably stick with the Frenchy's but do like the modular setup of the Radium where you can add on bits and pieces. If I stick with the Frenchy's and I do ever track it I'll just need to make sure I have a full tank of fuel. I'll be too scared to go again after a lap so won't use much fuel!

God I wish I could be bothered removing the remaining engine bay bits while the donk is out so I can paint the engine bay but I just can’t! 😂 Look forward to seeing how it comes up.

Great car, good score! Plenty of us glad we bought our cars when we did. I for one would NOT be buying one at today’s values I can assure you! I presume you’ll take it with you when you move home?

Hey guys, has anyone got any experience with Radium stuff? I was all gungho and ready to get the Frenchy's fuel tank lid/pump setup but then tripped over the Radium one. The attraction is that they have an optional in tank surge pump option. It looks like a really nice setup. It would only be a small capacity but should have a very consistent amount of fuel in it with it's own lift pump, fuel return and venturi setup all feeding into it. This is the link- http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pump-Hanger-and-FHST-Late-Nissan-P1971.aspx. Scroll down to see the surge tank option. Radium http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/ProductImages/20-0700_Assembled.jpg Frenchy's I guess the question is "Do I really need it?" I'm unlikely to track the car a heap but I will a bit so is there value in the Radium setup? It looks like it would cost much the same money as the Frenchy's setup. I would prefer to support and Aussie company but there are obvious benefits of the Radium setup. Anyone have any thoughts, first hand experience or opinions on this? All are welcome but none are gospel!