Shoota_77

Shit mate, that's a frustrating experience you've had!! I really feel for you, it would be heart breaking! Here's hoping 2017 brings nothing but good news so you can get this bad boy screaming around the roads in no time!

Put blade connectors onto wires then put straight 12v/ground onto the terminals in the top hat. If it runs look at the fuel pump relay again if it doesn't, you'll definitely know that the problem is in the tank. Also grab a relay from under the bonnet and switch with fuel pump relay to cancel that out. The relays are all the same.

Yeah be a nice bit of upstream swimming to get into the turbo from there! Regardless I don't see one ever coming adrift provided it's been welded right from the start. My issue with the split design is the fact that it's going to apply pressure to the wastegate plate cock eyed rather than an equal force across it. Whether that causes extra wear or leads to any issues I don't know but if space is not a limiting factor I would definitely go dual wastegate. There are definitely times where single would be a massive advantage predominantly for space, simplicity and cost (2 versus 1 wastegate). Until someone does a straight back to back comparo we'll never know!

A little bit of oil will sit in the bottom of the bend as it sits lower than the hole in the block but it shouldn't be a problem. Definitely heat wrap the hose so you don't end up with oil going straight onto your exhaust when it burns through.

That is the correct relay. Check to see if you have constant 12v at pin 3, if yes have you got power going in to pin 1 while cranking and coming out of pin 5 while cranking. If yes to all of the above then there is a problem between the relay and the pump. Check the connector going through the fuel pump hat to make sure not burnt out or no corrosion causing poor connection. if its not that then move further down to between the hat and the pump. Hopefully that helps!

A bit of a clean and a lick of paint makes everything look nice again (until the paint falls off anyway!). Unfortunately for me (sometimes, not always) due to my Dutch heritage I'm a massive tight arse so the option to get people to do stuff for me is not available! Computer says no. It does have the benefit of learning a whole lot along the way. And a shed full of shit I may never use again......

Cheers Johnny, I've learnt a shitload doing all of this. Driving it for the first time will be amazing (albeit extremely nerve wracking!) but the enjoyment of actually doing it all has been huge! Ok, welds are done on the cat flanges. Are they great? Nope. Am I still happy with it? Shit yeah! The welds are B grade but I'm still happy with the result. It's not going to fall apart that's for sure! In saying that they're ordinary welds I've definitely seen worse on things people have paid good money for so in that regard I guess they're ok! After a very quick hit on the buff- I've fit up the pipes and mated up the cat. Good damn V Band clamps are nice! The fit is perfect, just slot them together, whack the clamp on and you're good to go. As long as you have room for the clamp that is.

Too long between updates lately... Got a set of front pipes off Piggaz cause making front pipes all got too much! Drilled the pipes the most strategic way possible to get the dual wideband sensors in the right distance from the turbos- Had an effing horrid time welding the bungs on! I think the pipes were made from aids, f**k they were horrid to weld! I got a bit grumpy about it...- On the other end of the pipes I changed the bolt up flange to a stainless v clamp. That was a bit tricky as I needed the flange as close to the front of the car as possible but with the two into one merge collector it was quite flat whereas the v band is obviously round. I made up a little expander to put inside the pipes to make it as close to round as possible- I tacked it in place with the TIG but because of the aids composition of the pipes and the fact that even with with my expander do dad it was never going to be the near interference fit that is ideal for TIG welding I decided to MIG it. Not ideal but the extra heat of the MIG helped with penetration into the aids and actually came up ok. Being different composition metals (mild to stainless) I wanted to use the proper TIG filler for joining different metals but it wasn't to be! I ground back a few places where I got a bit trigger happy but overall it'll do! I cleaned up inside the joint with the die grinder and she's good to go. Doesn't look like I took a photo of the finished product, I'll take one later on- Next up I taped the v clamp flanges to each end of the cat then sealed it all up so I could properly purge it. Note to self, don't use electrical tape so close to where you're welding as you gas the shit out of yourself on molten plastic...

You may scoff but buy a brand spanker. They're surprisingly cheap ($1400ish). I got one back when AUD V's USD was 1:1 and it was about $1000 delivered out of the states.

Unions are the greatest contributor to the death of Australian manufacturing I can think of. We all want to get paid more to do less but we're realistic. Unions don't need to be in touch with reality, they have standover tactics and bullying. It's more profitable that way.

f**king retards can't even spell their own website correctly "www.sunrusecars.com.au". How could anyone be so stupid and buy a car off these misleading f**king tiprats.

Hopefully 400-425kw atw on the twins to start with then I'll see where I end up when I go a single. I'm hoping to run E85 and water/meth which doesn't seem to have been done too often. Won't be as big a difference as running it with pump fuel but I have no doubt there's still gains to be had.

Wow, awesome gains! Well worth the effort. I've got the HFS3 kit and if I get gains anywhere near that once it's up and running I'll be stoked!

That's a new way to break an axle, haven't seen that one before! Must be more from side loading?

Definitely go for the Driver Dynamics day. I'm doing one early next year for the exact same reason. My car will be a 9, I'm a 5.... They give you more opportunity to do laps than you would ever want with a qualified driver trainer who I believe would teach you more about correct racing lines and cornering than 10 solo track days! And they're bloody cheap!

Rewire the MAC to the ECU. If it's not already controlled by the ECU you'll need to enable the outputs in the Haltech software. The wires are non specific so you just need to run 12v to one wire, the other to the ECU input you chose when you switched it on in the tuning software, it doesn't matter which way around. On the MAC valve it shows what goes where for your hoses. One is a vent, one to the boost reference on the engine and the other to the wastegate actuator/s. If you're running twins and have got a 4 port MAC (I'd recommend it) then you'll have one output for each actuator hose. Depending on what sized barb fittings came with it you might need to get bigger fittings to suit the size of the wastegate actuator pipe size. FIT CLAMPS TO THE HOSES!!! The last thing you want is a hose popping off an actuator. Hopefully that helps!

Work Kiwami are a close match and a better looking wheel IMO.

Chopped the barbs off my fuel pipes at the rear and fit hardline to AN6 adapters- Mounted the under car surge tank- Lines aren't connected yet as I'll be fitting in line filters at the back and the front. I'll also put one way valves in as well to maintain fuel pressure in the lines. Got my nicely powder coated front reo back- On a side project i welded up my first bit of stainless pipe today. Not perfect welding but it's good enough for something that's hiding under the car! Preparation is definitely the key, the few bits that weren't great were where the fit between the two pieces of pipe weren't sitting nicely together. On the real stuff I'll spend a lot more time on fit before I start welding.

Wiring is basically finished. I won't fully wrap it all up until I can confirm it's all fine. Be easier to trace any issues with the wires exposed. Ive made some brackets to mount the intercooler as when I got it the previous owner had lost them which was a pain! Nothing complicated, just time consuming. Ive chopped a bit off my front reo bar to clear the bigger intercooler and sent it off to get sand blasted and powder coated to freshen it up. I'm about to start mounting the fuel surge tank and additional hoses for the secondary pump then I can get a start on the exhaustive (boom....) process of building the exhaust. Im hoping to crank it for the first time within the next 2 weeks so the pressure is on!

@luke gtr I struggle out of Photobucket now. I used to be able to just copy the link out of Photobucket and just paste it in to the message text. Now I have to copy the link out of the "Image" direct link box in Photobucket then paste it in using the link button (chain picture) at the top of text box in this page. I then have to delete everything outside of the <IMG> </IMG> . It's a pain in the arse! I dunno if that helps your problem though!

@Piggaz good actuators, shit toes!

"ID" signifies Injector Dynamics so in a way it is a misleading ad. Bosch injectors aren't all ID's. Injector Dynamics pretty much just flow match them to a finer margin than Bosch do. They would buy 100, and group them into 4, 6 and 8 to be within whatever percentage they claim. It may not have be an intentional misrepresentation but it is still an inaccurate description. As always its buyer beware and all research should be done prior, not post handover of money. My personal belief is you should refund the money less $50 or so to cover postage and the stuff around and sell them again without any mention of ID in the ad. They're just Bosch 2000cc injectors. Which are $650 brand new if you look around a bit...

Yes just cap the line from the back and you can remove everything from the engine bay. Obviously cap the vacuum source on the engine.

I'm pretty sure it's just a GTS-T master cylinder. If you read my post later on there is some chat about a forum member (from NZ) that makes them. You can send him a PM or search for Garage 101 (Perth) on Facebook. That's where I got mine. They send theirs with a master cylinder.

Go to page 11 if the link doesn't take you straight there. I haven driven with it yet so can't comment on how well it works.