Shoota_77

Awesome result! 600 HP (even 600 Yankee HP ) is a whole lotta fun! Good to know there's more in it too once you sort out some extra go juice to the front. Can't wait to see a high speed blast down the road video (sounding like a Skyline!).

Must be an EVO. I think they make around that power

Not good for our scene at all but awesome video showing how we all wish we could drive our cars!!

Shit mate, that's no good. If your current (now ex!) engineer doesn't recommend someone for you PM me and I'll track down the details of another engineer who comes to Shepp fairly regularly. We sold him a Benz not long ago and I spoke to him about engineering my car with the RB30 in it. He was pretty confident he'd get it through whereas others just instantly shit canned the idea so he's at least open to a little lateral interpretation of the VSI regs!

Prettying sure Kulig makes the Hi Octane kit. I've got that setup on mine. It's a good bit of kit. Fairly easy to fit and set up. I'd love to hear a sound comparison of pre and post fitment of a trigger kit. Allegedly they sound quite different due to the cleaner signal to the ECU.

You're an amateur. I'm 4 years and counting off the road! I agree with both of you but the "cheap" option is to build an RB30 as opposed to a stroker. Stroker is sooooooo much easier in the long run than the RB30 though when you take into consideration all the other factors that come into making the thing fit in the engine bay. In theory it's only another $1000 or so to build a 30 (mainly just extra machining) over the 26 but +++++ when it comes to getting the whole show up and running.

Use Molybdenum grease. It sticks well and doesn't dry out.

This is only an approximation based on mine. There would be a lot higher examples and possibly a bit lower but you'd get a pretty good engine for that. $1500 pistons $1000 rods $500 bearings $1000 Machining $1000 Labour

Have you had a bad experience with Chequered? I've only heard good things in the past! Very keen to hear some facts as I was planning to and most likely still will tune my car there unless you've got some pretty solid evidence as to why I shouldn't. We're all entitled to an opinion I guess, hence why I personally wouldn't set foot inside Melbournes most discussed workshop (again) due to the fact that they really only like customers that have no idea about their cars and rely on pushing their own financially rewarding opinions on said customers. Sorry for the thread bomb Daniel! I hope you get to the bottom of the problem.

If they spent 3 days on just your car then it needed more than just a tune. A tune does not take 3 days of solid work. Identifying and then resolving issues and further scope for improvements that are found during the tuning process are what takes the time. If a tuner takes 3 days to tune a vehicle I have to question his ability. Also, just because the car is at the tuner for 3 days doesn't mean it's on the dyno for the whole time!

Stick with the project mate. Unfortunately you'll never get your money back for what you've spent so finish it off and get some enjoyment out of it!

As a last resort there are a couple of gear cuttters in Melbourne I've dealt with that would be worth talking to. Ronson Gears and Hardman Bros are tow that I know off and I have no doubt there would be heaps more in Melbourne. Could be worth a chat to them. I was looking to get some oil pump parts made a few years ago and they were both very helpful. You can just send the part to them and they will measure it all up and cut them to match. Good luck with it!

It's a bloody shame no one has come up with a solution for putting an LSD centre into the A-LSD housing. Surely with Nissans level of interchangeability between models there's something that fits. Someone like Award could possibly come up with a solution. Otherwise there's going to be a shit load of A-LSD's laying around rotting once they've all been swapped out!

Cheers mate! It'll be a long time coming that's for sure!

For a complete novice it would take 4-5 hours if you take your time and document everything. Get 20 zip lock bags and put all of the nuts and bolts in labelled bags. Take heaps of photos. It all helps when you go to re-assemble even if just for routing of hoses/wires/etc. While you're at it (if not done prior) replace EVERY cooling system hose under the inlet manifold. Use genuine if you can afford it. Also replace all vaccum hoses especially the ones that run around the back of the head for the waste gate actuators. after 20+ years they all go hard and can crack. Being where they are located you don't find out till it's too late!

Nothing much to report unfortunately.... Christmas came and went with very little time spent on the car. My greatest achievement came on 1/1/2017 when I cranked it over for the first time (without using a ratchet!) and thank f#$k it achieved oil pressure! The light goes out so I'm happy! Once it's running I'll check what the actual pressure is. Otherwise I replaced the power steering high pressure line that got crimped when I put the engine in (prick of a job!). I've powered up the Haltech and poked in the initial tune. I'll fine tune it a little bit more once it's up and running but it'll be good enough to start it and run it. I'll be driving the car for a few hundred kms on my tune before I take it in and get a full dyno tune with an expert (probably Chequered Tuning at this point). Obviously apart from the odd squirt I'll be keeping a very close eye on things until the proper tune. I just don't want to run into problems with chucking a car straight on the dyno that has had so many different things changed on it. I want to sort out oil leaks, fuel leaks, coolant leaks and other little issues that could crop up before I get there so there's a lot less chance of hiccups on the day. I'm 3 hours away from the tuner so I really don't need the issues of having to go and pick it up again if things go south on dyno day. Seeing I'm not running covers at this point I made up a little top dead centre marker so I can set the initial base timing. http:// I've just got to program in the trigger method into the Haltech and then I'm ready to start thinking about starting it. To be honest I'm absolutely shitting myself at the thought of starting it for the first time! God I hope it all works!

Get a quote on the repair first and make a call then. A brand new bare head over there you'll pick up pretty cheap ($800 USD) so the repair would need to be comfortably less than that to stick with it. The new head *shouldn't* need machining (but should be checked) so there's less to spend on it but you would still need to get all of your valves refaced to suit. While you're at it I'd personally throw a set of bigger valves and stronger springs in it and make this into an opportunity to gain something out of a bad situation....

Oh ok. I didn't pick up on the time frame! Fingers crossed it's not too $$$ to fix so the wife doesn't make you trade it in for a Camry and a beige cardigan! (I think you have them there too??). Hopefully head off, quick skim, new head gasket and you're good to go!

Hi mate, that's definitely not the start to GT-R ownership you would have hoped for. Basically you've been stitched up by a dodge seller. There's 3 main possible causes of your issue. 1) Leaking head gasket 2) Cracked/warped head 3) Cracked block. Either way I'm afraid you're up for a few dollars to fix. The order of the possibilities above is the order that you would hope for as in just a leaking head gasket would be the most preferrable and cheapest outcome and a new/replacement block and the required mechanical work will cost you a bomb. Welcome to GT-R ownership where your wallet lives in a constant state of openess! I really hope you can get some assistance from your seller (but doubt it) and that when it's all sorted you get to enjoy the car in all it's glory.

Shit mate, that's a frustrating experience you've had!! I really feel for you, it would be heart breaking! Here's hoping 2017 brings nothing but good news so you can get this bad boy screaming around the roads in no time!

Put blade connectors onto wires then put straight 12v/ground onto the terminals in the top hat. If it runs look at the fuel pump relay again if it doesn't, you'll definitely know that the problem is in the tank. Also grab a relay from under the bonnet and switch with fuel pump relay to cancel that out. The relays are all the same.

Yeah be a nice bit of upstream swimming to get into the turbo from there! Regardless I don't see one ever coming adrift provided it's been welded right from the start. My issue with the split design is the fact that it's going to apply pressure to the wastegate plate cock eyed rather than an equal force across it. Whether that causes extra wear or leads to any issues I don't know but if space is not a limiting factor I would definitely go dual wastegate. There are definitely times where single would be a massive advantage predominantly for space, simplicity and cost (2 versus 1 wastegate). Until someone does a straight back to back comparo we'll never know!

A little bit of oil will sit in the bottom of the bend as it sits lower than the hole in the block but it shouldn't be a problem. Definitely heat wrap the hose so you don't end up with oil going straight onto your exhaust when it burns through.

That is the correct relay. Check to see if you have constant 12v at pin 3, if yes have you got power going in to pin 1 while cranking and coming out of pin 5 while cranking. If yes to all of the above then there is a problem between the relay and the pump. Check the connector going through the fuel pump hat to make sure not burnt out or no corrosion causing poor connection. if its not that then move further down to between the hat and the pump. Hopefully that helps!

A bit of a clean and a lick of paint makes everything look nice again (until the paint falls off anyway!). Unfortunately for me (sometimes, not always) due to my Dutch heritage I'm a massive tight arse so the option to get people to do stuff for me is not available! Computer says no. It does have the benefit of learning a whole lot along the way. And a shed full of shit I may never use again......