Shoota_77

Love to big fella. You can take me for a few runs. Might try and convince my father in law to bring out the V8 Datsun Ute for a bit of fun!

It's very therapeutic! I just wish I could get out there more often. It gets very hard this time of year when you get home after work and it's already dark and bloody cold!

Much to many peoples disgust no doubt it's a Freddy off Ebay. It cost a whopping $220 delivered. The quality of the alloy is fine, the quality of the machining is horrible. I had to get the two halves machined so they mated properly. Then had to spend a bit of time port matching it. Some of the bolt holes between the two halves needed opening up a bit as well. For what it cost and a few hours work I'm very happy with it. Looks a lot nicer than original one.

Hot!! Love a nice Bayside 34. Good job!

Still available.

Pics-

Up for sale I have a full set (6) of genuine Bosch ID1000's. They've only been on the car for maximum of 100kms and sat in the shed wrapped up for the last 3 years. I drove to the tuners, drove home and the oil pump blew up the next day..... I had the adapters machined down to fit into the genuine fuel rail. If you're running an aftermarket rail you will need new adapters ($36 for a full set from VPW). Will need all new seals for the rail end and either just one (I lost one) or a full set of the o-rings that go into the manifold. The adapters have a few gouges on them as they took a bit of getting out of the rail from sitting dry for a while. Can include standard fuel rail if you need it. $450 posted Australia wide. Pictures up shortly.

Pull out no1 spark plug so you can then check the cam gear timing marks at TDC. If they're right then I'm at a loss but I wouldn't be surprised if it was a tooth out based on the symptoms.

My thoughts are there was possibly a timing correction built into the tune that may have been lost when the firmware was updated? Isn't the timing offset just for the ECU to know where TDC is, not actually for setting the timing? I'm pretty sure that's the case with Haltechs but could be wrong. Worth investigating though. Have you tried adjusting timing via the CAS as opposed to through the ECU?

How much lighter are the R chassis knuckles than factory? How does it improve the bearing wear and pad knock issues? Is it a weight thing or an improvement in geometry?

You can buy alloy billet AN10 fittings that replace the factory drain tubes. That way you can go a fancy braided hose if you wanted to. There's not much room to play with under the turbos between the turbo outlet and the block fitting to be stuffing around with AN fittings though.

Ooooooo, fancy!

Looks nice mate! Damn it's white! Looks great with pristine new white paint. Good luck with it.

I'd be pricing a genuine one before you bother exploring aftermarket options. Sometimes they can surprise you (sometimes....). My thought process is that if it's lasted 20 odd years then it's done pretty bloody well. On the other hand I'd be fixing the thing. It's only seized because of the threads I would imagine. Drop the tie rod end off the steering arm on the hub and let it drop down so it can soak in a cup of CRC or similar. Fair chance by tomorrow it's no longer a seized tie rod and you still have $$ in your pocket.....

I took my exhaust manifolds to the local powdercoaters to give the high temp paint a cook and they threw them in the oven for a few days. It only gets up to 220 degrees but good enough to harden the paint a bit. Mounted them up- Had to adjust the throttle linkages so decided to give them a quick clean up on the polishing buff. From this- All the little fiddly stuff feels like it's taking forever but I'm slowly getting there. This is sad a.f but I'm absolutely loving being in the shed, cranking old school music (Pearl Jam, Live, Etc) and just tinkering. I guess things like that are all part of the experience of a build and make it memorable. Unfortunately none of my mates give a shit about cars so no one to share it with. Until it's finished when they all want a ride but that's all good!

What Kiwi said, most likely the lip inside the drum. Bush mechanic way to fix it- disc on the hub back to front so the inside is facing out, both wheels off the ground, idling in first gear, angle grinder on the lip and a few seconds later perfect. It's like a poor mans lathe!

Thanks! Shed height is 4 metres at the peak so the top of the walls I'm pretty sure are about 3700mm to the bottom of the tin. A sheet of 3600mm particle board just reaches to the bottom of the corner purlin. The hoist at full lift creases the roof sheets above each hoist arm by about 10mm so it's almost a perfect fit. Eventually it'll stretch into position! Luckily it's a hoist with adjustable arms or else it wouldn't have fit.

The head will be structurally identical. If you're swapping over the cam then the dizzy drive is on there so will match up perfectly.

Geez you blokes are harsh. Maybe he's a school teacher and only has time during school holidays cause school teachers work REALLY hard and stuff.

Just swap your cams into the new head if you're worried they'll be different (I don't imagine they'll be different enough to be a problem). They're hydraulic lifters so you don't need to worry about clearances or anything, just whack them in and off you go.

Thanks mate, yeah I wish I was terrorising my neighbourhood but alas it's still sitting in my shed consuming zero fuel apart from whatever is evaporating out of the fuel cap.. Ok, I must have got a bit of a dose of enthusiasm as I ended up painting all of the sections of the intake. I couldn't be fagged completely stripping the throttle bodies down so I just masked it up and painted it. I didn't bother painting underneath as it's not visible from the top so who cares! Some more shots of painting- And here is the (almost) final result- I must say I f'ing love it, it looks awesome! Very happy with the result. Hardest part will be not scratching the crap out of it putting it all back together.

Yeah I had to replace one of the hoses once and it was a nightmare! I wasn't going to bother risking that again!

Nissan. Probably could have saved money elsewhere (Amayama, etc) but one of my mates (unfortunately no longer) was spare parts manager at my local Nissan dealership so he always looked after me.

As far as I'm aware the main differences between RB balancers is the belt setup. So by that theory using a 25 balancer with 25 ancillaries should be fine. The key ways and everything else will be fine.

Every cop would be lining up for that bad boy as their patrol car! They are an awesome beast. Even the 450 Coupe is great fun. Nothing on the 63 but still fun. I've got one in stock if anyone has a spare $153k....