Shoota_77

Yep same as last few posts. Last step before pulling the engine back out again is mineral oil and provided everything is feeling half ok I'd give it heaps. Heaps of boost and heaps of load. You need to try and undo all the glazing of the bores that idling will have done. Hopefully there is enough cross hatch (you did hone the bores I'm hoping???) to bed the rings in a bit better. As per above you need to force the rings hard out against the bores hence why you want plenty of boost or load to achueve that. Good luck, it's a bitch to have to pull the engine out again if it's no good!

I've got one. As per DCEIVE I haven't used it yet but it's a brilliantly made piece of kit. Rob is a top bloke and easy to deal with. The $150 each way in freight for a big heavy bulky sump is a killer but still a lot cheaper than anything locally (unfortunately). Rob can build it exactly how you want it. I added numerous -10 fittings and an external oil pick up. The welds are AMAZINGLY good.

Wowzers.... A) Awesome car to race in. B) Looks like an awesome place to live, and C) How the hell do you choose which car to race in when you have a 35 in the garage?? I know which one I'd rather drive in the rain!

It's not ideal but not the end of the world. There's minimal actual "twist" between the engine and gearbox. All of the force runs straight though the shafts, not the box. The only force is created from the friction of the input and output bearings so basically nothing. There's a huge number of cars that just have a cover plate over the lower half of the gearbox so don't have any bolts holding them to the sump.

Probably a decent starting point to learning to slide is out at Rally Drive (Bacchus Marsh). They do dirt drifting around a speedway track with RWD cars to get the hang of sliding.

I tend to agree with the above, do it yourself. I've done a fair bit of rust removal on my Datto ute (with zero prior experience in panel repair). I bought a cheap MIG, went and got some free scraps of plate steel from an engineering workshop and then just made up the panels. I made a sill panel section with a piece of steel plate shaped over a gutter to get the right curve! It's ideal if you can get to the inside to grind off the slag but if you can't get to it then who cares? No one is gunna see it unless they hack the car up again! Under body stuff is easy as you don't need to finish it off as well as panels, you just paint over it with body deadener and it'll look great!

Use my work as an excuse bro. Ken Muston Automotive. At least you've got some that can vouch for you if the cops actually ring up! I'm working Saturday so I'll be there.

What's wrong with the current engine? Completely grenaded or just oil/smoke/etc issues? My advice, buy a cheap engine, put a set of bearings in it, give it a quick hone, some new piston rings in and away you go. That's not a perfect way to do it but should give you a bit more piece of mind than just whacking a completely unknown engine in. Once the sump is off you'll get a pretty good idea of what sort of condition it's in.

You need power for the next level of shine. Get a die grinder and you can then buy el cheapo polishing kits from Supercheap that you can put in the die grinder check and polish the life out of it. The kits even come with different polishing compounds to match the different polishing pads to go through the different levels of shine.

Not sure if fishing......... You want a GT-R badge? Buy a GT-R. A GT-R spoiler I can live with as it's an aesthetic improvement, GT-R badge GTFO.

CA's are so cheap so I'd just find another one, bolt it in and off you go. You'll pick one up for a few hundred maximum. Lots of blokes here running standard bottom ends in race cars with no issues. Personally I'd rebuild it but if time is an object bolt the new cheap donk in and fix up the existing engine while the car is still on the track.

Great to see some GT-R's actually in this time! They outweigh BRZ/86..........ATM anyway....

If there were any dramas you'd know by now. It would have blown one of the fusible links in the boot if it shorted badly enough and for long enough.

With an RB30 unless it's a total pig should smash 500HP on E85 with the right turbo/s. Don't quote me on it but I read somewhere that even the HKS V Cam setup only increased performance marginally.

Too low in comp? Was it originally a turbo motor or non turbo? The turbo motors were something like 7.5:1 comp or something like that from memory. With comp like that to get the most out of it you need to run a big turbo which obviously means delayed onset of boost. To be a nice responsive motor off boost you need to be running at least 8.5:1 but preferably mid 9's would be better. If you're still running methanol in conjunction with E85 I'd imagine you could get away with even higher than that on a well tuned/well setup engine.

Was comp definitely good before the crash? May have busted ring lands or something that is hard to see. Make sure the valves aren't sticking in the head and just being pushed closed by the pistons. It only takes a tiny nudge to bend valves which can cause them to lock in the guides. With the head resting on timber so you don't further damage the valves, turn the cams around and see if the valves close of their own accord when the bucket comes off the lobe.

3 or 4 hours is heaps. You can start sanding it down (3M 2000 grit wet and dry sticky pads are the best) after that sort of time frame. I generally put as much paint (multiple applications) as required to fill the hole to slightly above paint level then sand it down with the sanding pads then cut back the whole area around the repair (30+ cm area) then finish off with a polish again of the whole area.

Looks good, well done! Whose decision was it (and for what purpose) to ditch the ITB's in favour of the single TB or was your car already like that? Can't tell from the original piccies.

It's a poofter of a job doing the clutch and brake pedals... I sweated and huffed and puffed and cursed and cried a little inside before mine were on. My fingers felt like I'd smacked them with a hammer for 5 minutes straight after it. A good looking simple upgrade though!

Couldn't agree more. No disrespect to people who had 'old Jeeps' but in general they were $hit. Fiat ownership has brought along European design influences and more importantly European production standards. The fit and finish and general build quality of the Jeeps is spot on. I've never seen a brand go from junk to top quality in such a short period of time. If I wasn't building a house, a shed and a car I'd have one for sure! Driving one as a demo whenever I like is a suitable alternative though!

I hope you detected the sarcasm of the last comment....

I sell Jeeps and we have had a few minor issues with the current version Grand Cherokee (fiddly little electrical dramas) but overall they are seriously a brilliant car. I can honestly say that the build quality of the new gerneration Grand Cherokee is brilliant. At this stage it's the only Jeep I would buy but in the next 2 years all Jeeps will revert to the new way of building cars and will be world class. There's a bit of junk in there at the moment which is a hangover from the "old Jeep"... Value for money, quality, driveability and towability you honestly cannot go wrong with the Grand Cherokee. Tows like a truck (3500kgs) yet drives like a car. Completely unbiased rant over.....

Ha ha, Linglongchanwongs.... I love the brand "Mayrun". Then again they just might not...

I had a Q5 3.0 TDI which fortunately I bought under the corporate plan (free servicing) but they still gave me the invoices for my records, it was $900 for a standard service (ouch!). A lot of the modern diesels (no, that doesn't count Toyotas...) are using fully synthetic oils now. That where a big part of the cost on a Grand Cherokee Diesel service is, in the oil.

Diesel Navaras and PJ/PK Rangers are killing injectors too. At $1000 per injector it ends up being an expensive repair! We've traded in quite a few with dead injectors. If you're looking to buy a second hand one, make sure you start it cold as they quite often don't play up when hot.