Shoota_77

Looks sexy! Wow, $600, that could be a killer.... If my wife knew what I'd already spent on my shed....

How much was the 10L? I've got a 6X7 garage and 14X8 shed to do, both new concrete. Would you still need to etch clean a brand new floor? Obviously clean off the concrete dust and give it a good wash but would it need an etch?

They'll go nicely on your dirty 30 then....

Are the HKS 2530's a touch bigger than -5's or are they the same? Thought I read somewhere they might have a slightly higher output than the 5's.

Yeah I put one in mine and they look a lot better (R33 GTR steering wheels are the same as a S15 steering wheel..... ). I agree with the above though, the car at Import Monster looked amazingly straight and great price.

If the 34 wheel is to hide the condition of the original wheel then the original one must be f#$ked!!! That things rooted! Seems like a pretty good price though. It all looks pretty neat but you'd want to check for rust in the usual places (boot, bonnet hinge area, under front guard area). Not many mods which can be a good thing and a bad thing.

Wow, huge difference. Surely that would have to aid longevity to remove the torsional vibrations that would cause. What is the whole kit worth? Anyone know if you can buy just the sensors and sensor wheel? As in upgrade an existing Ross balancer.

Yeah not a strong fan base to quote.... I haven't seen too many VL's rip out their 30's in favour of a 26..... With your example above ("with similar power levels") it's not a relevant argument. What is a relevant argument is "with the same mods" which would presumably lead to the 30 being more powerful and obviously higher torque. But even if they did have similar power levels the 30 will still have more torque regardless due to the lower stroke so longer period of time the power is being made per cycle. At the end of the day a well set up 26 is more than adequate for 90% of the population. Some people are brilliant drivers and can easily handle/use the extra power/torque then you've got dicks like me that can't drive for shit and just think they need more power. Plus it's just a little bit different, it's about pushing the boundaries of what's possible. If we all did the same thing the world and car scene would be a very boring place...

PM'd re Mines cooling panel.

Will depend on if Vspec and if ABS or not. Otherwise I think ratios are different. Not sure about shafts and flanges. Someone else will know.

Gerg_31 was selling a full setup for normally aspirated RB26, see if he still has it but if not I'm sure he'll happily assist with any advice. Make sure it has pipes like this-

I play Hardcore only (once you can) so I don't mind the one shot kill thing.... But in non hardcore I could see how it would be annoying. I watched a Youtube video and they were saying they made it a lot harder to quick scope so interested to hear that there seems to be more doing it.

I had my first go tonight, I like it! I find you spawn into the action straight away. You can't presume you'll have to run to the action, you're in it! I like the physics of it, seems to move well. Played the Battlefield beta and was disappointed.... Offers SOOOOOO much and BF just never quite delivers for me. I've ordered a Sex Box One with COD, Forza 5 and Watch Dogs (when it eventually makes it). See what COD is like on that, better be amazing...

Sounds fair to me, that's quite a shunt!

I'll be extremely keen to see the results of this as it's near identical to my build apart from the crank trigger. That and the fact that this one is actually alive not hanging out in the shed....

Same lifters unless the cam has a smaller base circle than the standard cams. You'll need to find the cam specs first. You will need to check your valve clearance after replacing the cam.

Beautiful work on the exhaust. Seems to step down a fair bit into the cat/decat? Fark it's gunna sound insane with those twin gates screaming!

Big job mate. Engine out unfortunately. As I alluded to above you're probably better off waiting till it pops itself. You just need to be on the ball that when your oil light comes on you switch it off immediately! I was lucky and turned mine off straight away. Pump was smashed to bits but did zero damage to the engine. Some pumps will crack the outer pump ring but not destroy themselves so there is a drop off of oil pressure which can lead to engine failure in a big bad way.

With the oil pump it's pretty hard with the engine in the car. If you removed the balancer and front covers (as if you were doing a timing belt) it would be easier. Genuine (standard and N1 pumps) should just have a Nissan branding on the bottom left corner. Some of the other branded pumps will have the brand stamped or painted onto the oil outlet tube that runs to the right from the centre of the pump. The Tomei pumps have "Umeda" cast into the intake side of the pump and have a different looking outlet tube (right side) than the others. That's what mine has and is supposedly the toughest out there but there have been a couple of breakages still. Presumably it was a pretty standard rebuilt by the sounds of it so I would presume standard or N1 pump. Either way I would put a set of billet gears in it but you may just choose to wait until it lets go (you might get heaps of life out of it still yet if running at the power level you're indicating). 270kw should be totally fine on a relatively standard bottom end but it'll depend what you use it for. Daily driver with the odd rev, fine. Tracking it without all the other oil control and cooling mods done then will be a ticking time bomb. Good luck!

Che?

At least it's not a For Sale ad like some of the recent efforts..... He's at least offering some constructive information!

Luke that is one filthy engine bay! Get some degreaser on that shit! Good work though, nice write up and good piccies!

Why stay standard? Perfect opportunity to whack in a set of 1mm oversized valves. You're obviously chasing every last bit of power while you're contemplating removing the exhaust humps so why not do the valves while there is a good excuse? Price wise there is very little difference. Even if you can't fit them yourself it's not going to cost that much to get them done professionally.

It's official, I'm shit. Been busy making stuff lately. This (second kid, little sister for the walking, shitting 2 1/2 year old war zone)- And this, slab for my shed on my new block. Doing it all myself so taking a f'ing long time! Had zero idea about concreting before this- On the car front, I've finished the head, weight matched the pistons and rods to within half a gram of each other which is pretty bloody close (0.05% accurate). Then assembled the pistons onto the rods and in the process of putting the rings on the pistons- assembled the This could be finished by the time my kids are teenagers the way I'm going....

Ghey motor, get a better one. It's the yellow hose. Cut it off.