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Everything posted by Shoota_77
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Mate, seriously, stop it! Posting those piccies of your "undercarriage" are enough to make any grown man milk his baby wand till it runs dry and drops off! Everyone is right, you shouldn't drive it! Keep this one in cotton wool then make another one that you can drive!
- 647 replies
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- bnr32 rb26
- r32 gtr
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(and 1 more)
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Haltech Ps 2000 Vs Pro Plug In
Shoota_77 replied to black bnr32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Huh? If you have an idea what you need and you believe you've outgrown the FC then you must know what you need? What is the FC not doing that you think you need? Find and ECU that does do this for you and buy that one. As has been aluded to before, ask the bloke that's going to tune the car for you. Tell him what you're chasing and let him have a say rather than rock up with your new ECU only for him to say he doesn't tune that ECU as many unfortunate people have copped before. -
Haltech Ps 2000 Vs Pro Plug In
Shoota_77 replied to black bnr32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Cool, you don't need help then. -
Haltech Ps 2000 Vs Pro Plug In
Shoota_77 replied to black bnr32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I love their Youtube videos! They're awesome. Within reason would give me the confidence at having a crack at tuning myself. Only problem is most tuners won't touch a tune that's already been done. They'd just wipe it and start all over! If you added flex fuel or boost control later the videos would definately be a huge help. -
Haltech Ps 2000 Vs Pro Plug In
Shoota_77 replied to black bnr32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Going back to the OP's actual question, they do seem to read quite similar in specs. They both look to have 3D mapping (for flex fuel), sequential injection and direct fire ignition. The PS2000 has wideband and narrowband 02 control whereas the Pro only has narrow. The PS2000 has a bigger internal MAP sensor 2.5 bar compared with 1.5 in the Pro. Pro has 8 inputs (with the addition of another cable) PS2000 has 11 built in. PS2000 has variable cam timing control. PS2000 has hard and soft cut rev limiter PS2000 can control injection based on exhasut gas temp changes. Basically the PS2000 looks to be a lot more advanced in what inputs it can use to automatically alter the tune on the fly. If you're sticking with a pretty standard setup the Pro would be more than enough. If you're going to go crazy and spend hours on the dyno getting the car running better than when it came from the factory (and juist as reliable in terms of no dangerous lean outs, etc) then the PS2000 is for you. For $500 it's probably worth spending a bit more now so you don't regret it in 12 months. -
Tomei 270 Procams 10.8Mm Lift, Whose Used Them On A 30Det
Shoota_77 replied to rb30det_'s topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Too late then! The lower comp should give you a huge top end when you chase it later on (with big boost) I just hope it does the job for you in the meantime. Maybe you can just hold it at 6000 rpm minimum with some mad anti lag system and it'll be perfect! -
Tomei 270 Procams 10.8Mm Lift, Whose Used Them On A 30Det
Shoota_77 replied to rb30det_'s topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I would've thought too big. For a drift car you want instant snappy power. With such low comp and big sticks I think you'll struggle to achieve that unless you've got a small super responsive turbo which then defeats the purpose of the big cams cause you're not going to achieve massive top end anyway! With that comp you will be able to push big boost into it but that will only make it a slug until it hits boost then you'll have a huge top end which wouldn't suit drifting. I would think Poncams would be a lot more suited if you even bother with cams at all. If it's not too late I'd bump comp up to 9.5:1 and get a mid sized turbo (presume single?) so you've got an engine that makes power straight away then a turbo that comes in not too soon after. What power are you chasing? -
Probably would have been an awesome idea to ask BEFORE you put down the deposit!! I've got their sump adapter and seems very well made. A whole motor is a whole different story though. Why have they stopped building engines I wonder???
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You don't have to take that end of the tie rod off. Just undo it from the inner connections. Back the lock nut right off on the adjuster and that should give you enough thread to undo the knuckle off the rack without touching the other end.
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Can you please explain what you mean by the "difference in the quench was noticeable"? Providing you're using the same thickness gaskets, quench measurements should not be changed. You must be good if you can feel a quench difference!
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No. It might take a bit of load off the tie rod end when you're undoing it but it won't cause any dramas doing it jacked up. However in saying that, most suspension components should be tightened up with the car sitting as close to normal ride height as possible (wheels/suspension carrying the load). It's more of an issue with rubber bushes as they will twist and bind up a bit if you fully tighten them before lowering the car onto the wheels. You should assemble the parts with the bolts loosely tightened then lower the car onto blocks under the wheels or put the jack stands under the rear arms so the suspension is bearing the load (this is done so you can still get under the car!) and then tighten everything up to the correct torque. Drop it down onto the ground and should be all good.
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There's some incredibly good rust removing compounds available for surface rust. 3M do a good product, there's another one I cant remember the brand name but Super Cheap sell it (in a small black plastic container with a handle on top, like a mini oil container). You put the compound on the rusty bit, leave it for 10 minutes, wipe it off with prepsol (oil and wax remover) then with a damp cloth. Repeat if needed. Provided the rust isn't too deep it works awesome. I did a fair few spots in my car (plenum chamber near bonnet hinges, under the boot seal and behind the inner guard liner. Came up pretty good. Provided you either paint it, treat with a rust inhibitor or fish oil, it should keep the rust away in future. It's a constant battle!
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Depends on your paint skills and expected results! If it's say in the engine bay or under the boot lid and you're not too fussed about a factory appearance then definately do it yourself. If it's part of a large panel (around rear window or some other fiddly bit) then I would probably take it to a good panel beater that will cut it out and repair it properly, not just bog over the top of the rust and repaint it. Again if it's not too bad you may be able to do the prep work yourself and just get it repainted by someone else. Might save you a fair bit of cash that way. If you've got a welder it's surprising what you can do. I've welded a fair few sections into my Datsun and it is surprising what result you can get with some patience and steady hands.
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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
Shoota_77 replied to Sydneykid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I agree with the above. This is my pretty picture I just made. With the hoses coming from the rockers you can either do two hoses if you have enough inlets on your catch can or or like Kiwi says you can run one hose (on mine I joined the two together with a tee piece and ran one hose off the middle outlet of the tee to the catch can. -
You would hope that Tomei would be working off the fact that a Tomei pump would perfectly suited to a Tomei pump but it's very possibly not! It's definately something that needs to be checked. The machinist should have asked for your oil pump or at very least the inner gear so they could check the clearance onto the crank. Not that there's much you can do about it if it's out of whack other than weld up the crank and resize it or grind the snout off and fit a collar.
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Which brand crank collar Daniel? I bought an Aussie supplied collar (brand witheld for defamation avoidance!) and the clearance to the Reimax gears was huge! When I say huge I'm talking 9-10 thou! I contacted the seller and was told it "matches manufacturers specs" which was a load of shit. It was a lot smaller in diameter when measured across the drive faces and the overall diameter. I ordered a Jun collar to try and it was perfect. Clearance was around 3 or 4 thou from memory. The Reimax gears are fine from my experience, it's the collars that can vary.
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It's a GT-R, you definitely will have to take the head off again...
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LOL at "the red headed step child of Nissan". Hey, my fat arsed bitch appeals to me... Hurtful talk!
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Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26
Shoota_77 replied to Shoota_77's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Done f. all lately. Finally got around to putting in the crank and torqueing it all up today- Tested end float- 3 thou end float so well within specs- I also spent another three hours porting the head. Not going crazy taking out heaps of material, just making everything sure everything flows nicely. Removed all steps and rough bits in the ports. Also finished port matching the exhaust manifold to the head. Tossing up whether or not I ceramic coat the manifolds and dumps. Probably should but it's more money..... Does it ever end? -
Off to a good start! All 3 awesome cars! So is the 33 in the last picture, that's f'ing hot!
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Aren't big ends supposed to be a fraction tighter than mains? I'd need to recheck the figures in the book but pretty sure they are...