Shoota_77

I got mine custom made (CP's) at 9.5:1. Only took a few extra weeks from the states,

He means wait till you spin a bearing or blow up an oil pump (which WILL happen...) pull the engine out, send off the sump to be extended and have additional -10an fittings welded on for venting to catch can.

Yeah good call and totally correct. Fuel was shite back in 1986! No premium or ultimate back then. You need to work out what turbos you're running and what is the intended purpose of your car before you choose your comp. If you're running a massive single and focussing on drag racing or a HP dyno hero then go a bit lower comp and pump in huge boost. If you want a driveable street car or track car with good response and minimal lag out of corners then go a higher comp and smaller turbo/turbos. Do what works for you, not what everyone else has done as we all have our own goals and uses for our cars!

I just ring the tyre shops, they always have them laying around and unless they're a pack of dicks they'll be happy to give them to you.

On day one of this build I was a little bit meh, same old same old but mate you've made all those blokes on the first few pages eat their words (and mine that thankfully I didn't put on paper!!). I hope they've since apologised! This is truly and extremly thorough build and in 10 years will hopefully see this car worth twice any other 32 GTR out there. Hats off to you on an inspiring build that is all about being brilliant at the basics. Well done!

Yeah they be broke..... Bob's in strife.

Sensitive!!! Continuing Lukes post, E85 is always going to be a challenge if it's your only fuel choice. Flex fuel is always a great option. 98 and taking it easy on cruises, E85 and cane it for track work.

I'll fix it then- Princes highway, Dandenong...

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive. Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car. Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

I forgive you!

Mildly racist but did conjure a smirk......

9.5:1. Will probably run predominantly E85 but it's bloody hard to get it outside of Melbourne....

Please, please, please post the results. This is the greatest fear of all fresh engine rebuilds (apart from blowing up on first start!) so I personally would love to know what went wrong so we can all be more vigilant in certain areas when building our engines. Hopefully it's something simple like oil surge from a lack of baffling in the sump or something like that. Best of luck with finding the cause. Even worse than than the result is not finding something that categorically caused the fault, leading to having to rebuild it and hope for the best....

Whatever the issue is the good thing is it's something that you haven't changed from last time. Narrow it down to things that weren't changed. If it was just the engine build itself that changed then that theory doens't really help!

I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

Those rod bearings are ugly for such low kms. The big ends cop a lot more abuse than mains but they look a lot worse for wear than what you would expect after 2000 miles...

Sick car too by the way....

Sorry to hear it.... Argo rods too, bummer. I'm running Argo's in mine so hopefully I don't meet the same fate! I've seen crank oil galleries blocked from a ball of sealant that has fallen off the sump to block join over time. It's very easy to overdo it went applying it. Other than that the fact that it happened on cruise is a worry. Hopefully there is a clear cut reason as it sucks arse when a motor dies and you don't know why!

How much too big is it? Heaps or just a bit? I'm 6'8" so it would need to be heaps to fit me!

Yep that's correct. You'll come around the west side of it on the Calder and then after you get off the Calder (heading towards Romsey) you'll travel east across the north side. The turn to Macedon is just after you pass Hanging Rock on your left. Sunset from the Memorial Cross (all the way to the end of the turnoff part way up) would be amazing! You have a 360 degree view and can see to the city on clear days. The view to the west with the sun setting will make for some good photos if there's a bit of cloud about. Enjoy!

Yeah get off the Calder at the second Woodend exit then turn right to go back over the freeway and across the north side of the mount. About halfway up the mount is a turn off to the memorial cross. It's worth a drive up there for a look. Pretty awesome view from there or the 'Camels Hump' but both are a 10 minute walk. Definitely worth it if you have the time though. I proposed to my then girlfriend now wife on the Camels Hump. If she said no it was a quick shove and on to the next one!!!!!

It's a great road from the north side (south is boring) but its super tight, super slippery and lots of cyclists and cars (on weekends anyway). Theres zero margin for error. There's not a lot of places to get up a bit of speed and 'attack' any corners unfortunately. It is a very nice part of the world though.

Help! Will consider a complete sump at the right price too.

Hi guys, just need the axle tube that runs through the diff (not the axle itself). I sent my diff off to be repaired and it never came back! They can't find it! It's the bronze coloured tube as per below (as if you didn't already know...). Hopefuly someone that's converted a sump to RWD might have one laying around. Thanks!

Yeah it's shit like that! Just do a burnout on it!