Shoota_77

Been a bit slack lately but finally got around to doing a bit today. Drilled the holes in the main bearing girdle to be able to attach the windage trays- Also put a bit more work into gasket matching the oil galleries in the block. I'll do the head next, it needs a huge amount taken out of it. It's sooo rough I'm surprised. It's like they just drilled a few holes next to each other and hoped for the best! Shoody work by Nissan on a brand new part.

Hey guys, changing computer and going MAP sensors so selling the gear as per title. The Power FC comes with hand controller. All in good condition. Hoping to avoid any stuffing around as this is a bloody cheap price! Chasing $600. Z32 AFM's are almost brand new. I put them on my car, drove it to the tuners, drove it home then I popped an oil pump so they've done 60kms on the road plus a bit of dyno time. Chasing $250 each or both for $450. I'm in Shepparton (country Vic) so most likely will require postage. Make postage $15 per part to anywhere in Australia. If you need photos either google (!!!) or PM me your mobile # and I'll take some photos when I get a chance. Cheers, Ewan.

I couldn't track one down here. It's cheaper with pricey post than most available here! Pain if you're in a hurry though.

Nope, no jokes.... You don't use a sledgey!!! The key word there was 'light' hit just in case you missed it!

I bought this one, works well- http://bit.ly/17xcnp1

While you're at it, remove the cams completely then you'll be able to see if any valves are stuck down (they often stick when bent). Another test is removing the buckets and giving the tip of the valve a light hit with a hammer (and punch to contact just the valve tip) You can tell the difference with a bent valve as they don't snap shut as nicely as a good one. Other than that, hope for the best!

It is possible you did damage. IF the piston is at the top when it should be at the bottom then the valves will be pretty much fully open. Did you turn it over before you realised it was out? If not that would reduce the likelihood of damage. Hopefully your valve lift is not extreme enough for the valves and pistons to make contact. If you're using an MLS head gasket then rip the head off and have a look. You can reuse the headgasket no dramas. Might save you pooping yourself before you hit the key for the first time!

Ha ha, awesome deadblow. That's dedication, getting you're own hammer made! Joke..... Like I said before, it sucks when there's no clear cut reason for the failure.... I'd definately look at your oil supply while it's out. I can't remember if you mentioned about an aftermarket sump baffle? Definately put one in if you haven't.

What sized piston? I have a set of CP rings (1.2mm/1.2mm) for an 86.5mm bore which is the first oversize.

I think that's why he's saying he doesn't drain it back to the sump (oil/water contamination). Not that it doesn't need the venting system.

http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/story2/7BBD4C2884C3EA74CA257BBB00258CAC Not good news at all. Hopefully a buyer can be found. Would certainly be a major blow to car enthuisiasts if it closes. One less option in quality engine bearings to choose from.

I didn't realise you were this far along! Bit late to worry about your comp now! Should be an absolute beast when you're done. Nice straight Vee Ell too!

Ha ha, I hope you're right!! I'm a qualified mechanic but haven't been paid to touch my tool(s) in years. Now I just play for free.....

I'm going with return valve in the fuel pump. If you can, put a fuel pressure gauge between the pressure reg and the fuel pump and see if it drops off.

I'll tell you as soon as it's built. Just in the process of building it now.

I had an SR20DET that I was going to put into my other 1200 but reallocated all the funds to the Skyline. I'll revisit that project again at some point. When I have money again. Ie. never!

You wanna see me get into my Datsun 1200 ute then....

Ha ha! I need to take the bonnet off so my shins don't hit it when I'm working under there! I'm 6'8" though.....

You're right, we should transfer this discussion to the oil control thread.

Yeah they look pretty tall when you're used to seeing 25/26's. Tall is good. Like me....

If the pressure in the sump is going into the catch can then inadvertantly it's going to feed back into the cam covers as it's all linked. The pressure doesn't disappear when it gets to the catch can, it has to go somewhere unless the cam covers are in permanent vacuum which I believe them to only be during closed throttle decelleration. I think having feeds to the head and to a catch can would be beneficial as it should help to create a nice balance of pressures between all sectors of the engine (cam covers, crankcase positive side, crankcase 'vaccum side' (or just lower pressure side if not actual vacuum)). Having a 'balanced' vacuum/pressure situation in the engine should be beneficial as there is reduced pressure in the crankcase causing less oil to be pressurised past the rings and less vacuum in the cam covers which reduces oil draw down passed the valve stem seals on deceleration. This is just my understanding of it and happy to be proven wrong but it makes sense to me! At the end of the day overkill is better than underdoing it. If the hose to the back of the engine does no harm and may help, why not do it? If the engine is built properly and all the failsafes are done then it should be right. It would be interesting to have pressure sensors placed in the three sectors of the engine to see what they're doing under certain circumstances. This would be the only way to 100% understand what is happening. However through a lot of trial and effort by everyone on this site the answers are pretty much discovered anyway.

You're partially correct. I read some of your comments. Most of them weren't worth reading... The hose from the sump to the catch can is not a drain, it's a breather or "pressure equaliser"....

Strong words from a faceless clown..... Don't be so defensive bloke. I was offering assistance. If you don't want help, don't ask.

Finally all of the machining work is done on my engine so I drove to Melbourne today to pick it all up. Set up the "operating theatre" ready for business- All the goodies- Pistons individually weight matched (blueprinted in other words) Oversized valves in- Tomei Poncams- Oil return galleries enlarged- Intakes opened and tidied up a bit- Exhaust ports opened up a bit- Spacer for timing belt tensioner- What all GT-R's should have had from factory.....- That's everything that the machinists have done, now it's my turn. Didn't waste too much time on it but gave the crankcase a bit of a tidy up- Also opened up the oil return galleries in the block to match the head gasket. The block opening is about 6mm smaller than the gasket which is just bloody stupid!- Also opened up the water galleries in the block as well. you can't really tell but I've done the main curved bore water galleries as well- That's all I got done today, still a bit more cleaning up and measuring before I start assembly. Sorry for the photo overkill!

I got mine custom made (CP's) at 9.5:1. Only took a few extra weeks from the states,