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Shoota_77

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Everything posted by Shoota_77

  1. Shoota_77
    Sounds like it should be quite an in depth build. I've always wanted to build a car around an engine/driveline. Look forward to seeing it all take shape, with 18 years experience you should know what you're doing! What's the plans for the body shape? Will it just be covering the skeleton or be a smooth traditional looking shape?
  2. Shoota_77
    That's what I'm talking about! Needs a turbo...
  3. Shoota_77
    Got a few photos of the machining process. Bore and hone of block, head ported a little bit, head machined for 1mm oversize valves, block drilled for RB26 headstuds, reliefs grounds for sump adapter allen head bolts, Hardblok up to bottom of lower welch plug holes plus a few other bits and pieces-
  4. Shoota_77
    Post needs Fatz incar vids for giggles....
  5. Shoota_77
    Surely there are a few guys with mega dollars that can drive? That clown definately isn't one of them!
  6. Shoota_77
    Is it as important seing you're running dry sump? Won't be anywhere near as much oil in the sump obviously. Certainly can't hurt though, might help the oil get back to the pickup point quicker. Shouldn't be too hard to do. Might just need to drill a few new holes and possibly space the tray to the girdle in a few spots if it doesn't sit flat at the mounting points.
  7. Shoota_77
    Have you got your vent hoses routed correctly? When I first got my car it blew smoke out the exhaust when cold due to the catch can being routed incorrectly. Worth a look anyway. Otherwise, dodgy injector, turbo seal, etc.
  8. Shoota_77
    Long time no post! Been busy with busted hand, moving from Melbourne to Shepparton, new job, new rental house, building new house, etc etc. Finally started on the car again last week. The engine should be finished the machining stage next week and then I just need to go and pick it all up then start bolting it together. This is all I've done lately- Started making the bolt ons- These, look pretty- Hopefully more to come soon.
  9. Shoota_77
    Fuel pump possibly. Clamp your return fuel line (to build pressure) and see if that makes any difference. I would have said AFMs before you said you don't have any!
  10. Shoota_77
    Thanks, that's a starting point! As in lift up the rubber boot and look underneath? What is the difference I'd be looking for? Any chance anyone has a photo?
  11. Shoota_77
    Are there any sausages?
  12. Shoota_77
    Hi guys, I can't find any information anywhere about how to identify a series 3 gearbox. Do they have a different part nunmber somewhere on the box? Is there anything visible from the outside of the box that signifies it being the later box or is it only internally that the changes exist? I know they have the double synchros but just want to know how to find one that is what the seller claims to be! Thanks in advance.
  13. Shoota_77
    No it comes from the same spot. There will be some parts of the ABS module that fluid sits in that isn't part of the normal fluid path.
  14. Shoota_77
    I do it myself that way. I just use a length of wood or a lever against the seat to hold the pedal down. I'm sure both of our methods work just fine!
  15. Shoota_77
    The best way to bleed the whole system is with the help of a friend or a little ingenuity. Do exactly as Mungy suggests but as an additional step, once you've closed the bleed nipple again, pump the brake until the pedal is super firm. Get someone to hold down the pedal (or jam something between the seat and the pedal so there is very firm pressure onto the pedal) then reopen the drain nipple to release the pressure in the line and close it again whilst still being held down. This often forces any extra air out of the line and draws a fresh supply from the reservoir. After you've finished pumping the pedal always close the bleed nipple whilst the pedal is held to the floor. This makes the system always draw from the reservoir rather than back from the bottle.
  16. Shoota_77
    In an ideal world yes. There shouldn't be too much contaminated fluid within the ABS system as it a) rarely gets used b) is totally sealed to contaminants. There should be an ABS bleeding procedure in the workshop manual. I personally would do it say every second time I bled the brakes.
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    The only issue with mine was the size of the rail adapters. Some people source the 11mm adapters, I just got mine machined down. Only cost $20 and didn't have to wait for parts.
  20. Shoota_77
    Nope, just chuck them straight in. You'd have to machine down the posts on the manifold as well to allow the rail to drop lower. You try it, if it works we'll all do it!!
  21. Shoota_77
    In one page it's quite clear that your fabrication skills are brilliant! This will be one polished car when it's finished. There'll be nothing slapped together about it. The engineer will have no other option but to pass it just because it's a whole lot of awesome! This is gunna be one sick 'Rana!
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