Shoota_77

Cleaned up a bit of wiring, stripped off old conduit and electrical tape and reapplied it- Playing around with cam gear cover- If you haven't get on board the aqua blasting bandwagon then get on! Brings up an amazing finish on all metal bits regardless of how soft (alloys, aluminium, etc)-

Hell yeah. I'm sure many an engine has been bolted together without clearances being checked only to grenade soon after. As good as your machinist is it's just not worth the risk of 'presuming' it'll be ok.

Received my sexy HPI dumps today. I thought they were supposed to be 76mm??? Mine measure up to 72mm at the dump.... My old ones are 57mm so either way it should make quite a difference. They're one heavy bit of gear. Amazingly good welds and finishing off. I don't want to fit them to the car, they're too damn pretty! I received a new (Australian made but won't mention brand) oil pump drive collar and measured it up prior to sending it to my machinist to fit it to the crank. I found the clearances to be massive! Across the drive flats it was 9 thou one side, 10 thou the other and 6 thou around the curved section. This appeared waaaay too big to me. I contacted the seller asking his advice. He tells me that it's 'matched to factory specs'. I measured my 33 crank (which has done around 90K) and found to to be 0.12mm larger across the flats. That's 5 thou less clearance than the supplied collar. No way I'm using it. I might get one custom made so I know it's perfect. I don't particularly want to destroy a nice shiny Tomei oil pump...

Can you post some links Charlie? I must have shite searching skills as i couldn't find any!

Good point, I stupidly didn't think of that! In theory that makes it perfect! The offset would be nearly identical. I remember when I was a tech at Holden when the whole crossover pipe thing came along. Late 90's early 00's from memory. If it only makes it a bit quieter then it's worth it.

Does anyone have any actual knowledge of what effect (if any) it would have on an engine to have the cats staggered on a twin system? By that I mean having one cat slightly closer to the engine than on the other pipe to allow them to fit under the car better? Like this picture (best photo I could find!)- I tried Googling but couldn't really find any info.

Great write up Anthony, have you had any experience with flex fuel tuning with the adaptronic? Or is that not a done thing over there? I'm about to buy a Link G4 for flex fuel, MAP and so forth, which do you believe would be better for those purposes? Does the Adaptronic have similar diversity in the dimensions of the tuning map as the Link? Cheers.

You win, your virtual cock is much larger than mine. Dunning-Kruger Effect? I think that's me every time I look at myself in the mirror. I'm a car salesman, the key to being wrong is thoroughly convincing yourself that you're right which tends to have a contagious effect... Bloody internet just doesn't transmit contagions like face to face contact. I've been let down by technology. If I'm wrong (and due to the weight of numbers building against my argument seems that I am) then I'll hereby bow out beaten. If I've offended- sorry. Over and out.

We (clearly!!) both think we're right so let's leave it there! If you want to water your garden quicker, get a bigger hose! That was my last pathetic attempt at winning the argument if I need to point it out. Peace out!

I'm sorry bloke but you need to read up on electrical 101. Voltage, Amps and Ohms are all relative to each other. You can't just measure the volts at 14.4V and say "she's all good mate". You have to measure 2 of the 3 variables before you can do the full calculation (volts = amps X resistance). Like I said, it is likely that it will measure the same as battery/alternator voltage as long as there are wires completing the circuit. When there is a resistor, short, etc in the circuit then it will likely read a lower voltage but not if say 8 of the 9 wire strands have broken through. If you measure the volts and the resistance or volts and the amps then you can use the electrical equation to work out if there is a drama, you can't use one of the three to presume everything is fine. I think you're presuming that if the voltage is alternator voltage at the coils then it's fine but that's not true. If the voltage is fine but the circuit is crap (high resistance) then the amps will be crap. Example- 14.4 volts = 7.2 ohms X 2 amps would be horrible but it's still 14.4 volts. 14.4 volts = 1.44 ohms X 10 amps would be a whole different scenario right? It's still 14.4 volts but at a much higher amperage. Which circuit do you think is better??? If that still doesn't make sense then I'll shut up!

As Ash said earlier, it's all about the ADR's. If the car is built within ADR guidelines then it's all fine. If you modify the car outside of how it was ADR'd then you need to pay to confrim that it should still be considered safe, environmentally friendly (yeah right!) plus other shit they make up to make it even harder. We (modified car enthusiasts) need a stronger voice in parliament to voice our opinions and give the current members a bit more of an understanding of our culture and why we do it. They currenty just blanket the whole modified car club as a pack of criminals because of the minority that do burnouts in front of schools and so forth. It's easier to hate them and presume we're all the same. Wow, sorry, bit of a rant there!

Still waiting on my pistons from the states but a few nice bits turned up during the week. Trying to get everything else ready so once the machining is done I can bolt it all together and put it straight in. Hard to get motivated until bits like this turn up- Brand new head- Supertech 1mm oversize valves- New ARP head studs seeing some dick drilled into one of the last set- Supertech valve guides that I now don't need seeing I bought the brand new head-

Sexy! You've put a bit of work into that! Another tip my engine builder suggested (but I'm not sure I'll bother with or not) is a splash guard I guess you would call it that deflects the oil dropping down from the oil returns in the head to the side of the block so it doesn't drop onto the crank which creates further drag and additional oil mist in the crankcase. Makes sense I guess but where do you stop??

I feel like a school teacher (sorry!!) but we're getting a little hung up on volts but amps is more relevant to this argument. You can measure 12 volts across a circuit whether it's a single strand of wire or 50 strands of wire. The resistance is obviously a lot higher over one strand compared to 50 (water theory- small hose high flow, big hose high flow at the same pressure) which means that a lot less power flow occurs over the single wire than the 50.

Sold guys, thanks for all the interest.

I think we need someone with a spark tester to see if it makes any difference. Would be very interesting to see if it made any difference on a dyno too. It would be very easy to have it set up ready to be switched over to do back to back results under the exact same variables (temp, tank of fuel, etc). Somebody do it!!!!!

SR20DET is theoretically no good. SR20DE no worries. The calculation is 2.5 X tare weight of the heaviest version of the vehicle (Wagon in this instance) for a non turbo and 3 X tare weight for turbo. So heaviest Datto 1200 at 740 kgs equals a max turbo size of 1850cc which is why CA18DET is the weapon of choice. The loophole as such is claiming that the Ute is a "commercial vehicle" which is lets be honest, a bit of a push! It's whopping 500kg payload somehow still makes it passable. But anyway, Datty takes a back seat for now.

Good idea, what's your email address? Jokes. Yeah probably worth a try but I'm assuming the engineer knows the ins and outs of the law. It's his job to know so I would hope so anyway! But as I alluded to earlier it's amazing how much the "perception" of the law makes. On my last (on hold) project (SR20DET into Datsun 1200 ute) I asked the same question of 3 engineers before one of them saw a loop hole (after I pointed it out admittedly) that we were able to use to get it ok'd legally. They all read into the rules what they believe to be true.

It's not just voltage that's important but amperage as well. A higher gauge wire will flow more amps than thin gauge. Think of electricity like water and hence wiring like hoses. Volts is pressure, amps is flow. A larger hose will obviously flow more water so a larger gauge wire will flow more amperage. A thicker gauge wire will definately get more voltage and amperage to the coils but you would really next to utilise a spark checker to work out if it actually makes any difference or if the coils produce the same regardless. It would definately be interesting to know. Anyone done a proper test?

Hey Jamie, Dennis (criko angel) has first dibs pending seeing some photos. I've promised him first right of refusal after seeing the photos. I'll send him photos first, if he doesn't choose to take it then I'll load the photos and declare it still available. Stay tuned!

PM me then. I might need help!!

Sent you a text message.

Hey guys, I have the sump that came with an engine I bought that I don't need. It is an RB26 AWD sump modified with the Trust weld on extension. Welds are very nicely done. It has also been modifed to allow bolting up the lower transmission mounts when using a 10mm sump adapter so should bolt straight up to the transmission when putting on an RB30. If not, you may need to re-drill the holes back in the original position. The sump has had the baffles modifed with a welded in swirl chamber that should do a very good job of preventing oil surge. The sump also has a -10 and -12 fitting in the side (bottom) of the sump that could be used for an external oil pump pick up or oil cooler pickup. Sorry for no photos, forum was down last night when I went to load them. Will be loaded tonight. The sump has no diff in it but I have a spare that I can supply (not installed) if needed for a bit of extra $$. All sealant has been removed and it's all washed up ready to be bolted on. Cheap price of $450 plus freight (I'm happy to box it all up for interstate transport) or I can deliver it within ~10kms of Melbourne CBD. Pick up from Hawthorn during business hours or Western suburbs after hours. Cheers, Ewan.

Yeah I know what you're saying in that we don't need another "What turbo do I put on my RB20 to make 4000kw" but topics like this change over time. Laws change, different engineers have different "perceptions of the laws" and so forth. I have used the search function and read the other topics but thought it might be interesting for others considering the same thing to see factual information directly from an engineer rather than "my mates Dad said he knew a bloke that was shaggin Robbo's sister that someone told him that it was legal". If you get my drift..... As I said to my engineer, it's bloody frustrating that I will now have to drive my car around illegally due to the short sighted nature of the EPA and the Government. It's in the too hard basket so they just make it impossible to get over the line legally so the owner of the modifed car doesn't bother. The Govt still win anyway as they can then get the Police to focus on finding modified cars so they can fine them and get the money that way. I don't want my car to be illegal but there's no way I'm paying $4000 to make it otherwise...

Hey Luke, My engine is already at the machinist so the figure above ($2800) is what I'm paying. As with most things, sometimes it's worth paying a bit more to get it done perfectly. Hopefully it WILL be worth it! Time will tell.