Shoota_77

God you can be a clown sometimes..... It's a real shame as some of what you offer can be useful. Don't they need you over on www.sscommodores.com.au? I'm sure you can add some value over there?

Ok, I've seen the question asked many times before but not really seen a definitive answer. I've had dealings before with an engineer for another project so I thought I'd ask him the question. This was his response- You are really getting out of your depth here. The R33 engine cannot be modified other than a pod filter OR intercooler changes. If displacement is changed as you describe, you need to prove your still meet the emission standards for the age of your car. In this case a full ADR 37/00 (I believe ) test cost $4000 each time for a yes or no answer, who knows how many time you will need to test it before you get a pass. Car companies spend millions of dollars doing this stuff to have road going cars approved. That kinda wasn't the response I was hoping for! I'd love (and have no doubt others would too) to hear if anyone has had any success with an engineer or got away with just telling Vicroads you've done an engine swap. Looks like my cae will be a track car sooner than I thought....

Reflecting back to when I first asked the question about how much it would all cost to do the conversion, I wish I was right! While my engine is still a work in progress this is pretty much where I'm at currently. Bear in mind that a lot of the stuff is performance stuff that isn't necessarily a part of the rebuild but stuff that I would have done if it was an RB26 or RB30 rebuild or even just upgrades on an existing engine. There are definately cheaper ways to do it but this is my way! I know it will be all done properly and no short cuts have been taken.. Thank god I don't have labour costs on top of this as that would just blow it way out. RB30 Engine/machining $2,800 Pistons $1,100 Gapless rings $350 Head Gasket $400 Sump Adapter $1,000 Bearings $250 Rods $1,000 Gaskets $400 Hardblok filler $150 Head drain/breather $285 Head studs $250 HPI dumps $750 Vapour Blasting $250 Genuine Hoses/fittings/etc $900 Exhaust (twin 3") $850 New Head $1,100 Oversized Valves $500 Valve Springs $500 Tomei poncams $650 Valve locks $150 Engine Belts $90 Timing Belt $100 Tomei oil pump $1,500 Modify sump $900 Front diff LSD $1,000 Oil drain fittings $150 Water pump $200 New CAS $300 Coilpacks $500 Oil Cooler $300 Total $18,675 I've probably missed a few things as well. It will no doubt top $20K by the time I'm done with tuning and oils and all the other crap that goes along with getting a new engine running. Beware anyonew else thinking of doing the conversion!!!!! Sell a property first, that should cover it.....

Wow! Thank god theres an E85 United servo between home and work then!! One on each side of the Westgate Fwy, 1 tank to get to work, one tank to get home!

Get a stock computer and try that (one that matches the head/wiring you're running). It sounds like you might be on to something when you say it only plays us when bolted down. Possibly coil pack harness? Try one of those too if you can get your hands on one.

That tyre will only rub on the suspension under pretty extreme cornering causing the tyre to flex that far.

Thats a leak? I can't see where it's actually dripping. Even if it is leaking, it's an advanced anti rust feature that slowly administers an advanced lubricant to the under carriage. Ingenious design!

Anyone got any E85 RB26 (or RB30) feedback? I'd reckon it would be horrible economy!

There was a guy just last week that found he had low battery voltage and that was enough to drop a couple of cylinders so try that first. Have you swapped coils/injectors/spark plugs from cylinder 6 to see if the problem moves? If not do each item one at a time.

Sounds like bottom end. The timing belt would probably slip teeth on the cam but still turn over if it was being cranked over with a jumper battery! I could be wrong however. If the timing belt was super tight possibly not. Who built the engine?

Could be a miilion things. Has that ENTIRE setup come out of another running car or is it a freshly built engine with all the newly acquired parts used to put it all together? What computer are you running? Has is been tuned at all to run on the current setup? Is there a vacuum leak? Old fuel? There's a whole lotta variables that you're going to have to go through one at a time in a logical order. Good luck!!

I know a lot of guys don't like using the original setup of using intake vacuum to act as a pump to draw out the crankcase pressure but for me, it is the best way to set it up. The claim is that it somehow reduces the power of the engine, I would need to see proof to believe that but I'm sure there is a bit of merit in it. When I got my car, the catch can was vented to atmosphere via a filter on one of the inlets/outlets and the intake pipe inlet was blocked off. My car would get blowby when it was cold and would blow smoke out of the exhaust about 5 minutes after starting the car. As soon as I re-plumbed it back to factory, no more blowby (and associated horrible fumes into the cabin) and no more blowing smoke. With the engine I'm building now (30/26), I've had two fittings welded into the sump, one to equalise to the back of the head (aka head drain) and the second one will go to the catch can. My can will need 2 inlets (rockers and sump) and one outlet to go to the inlet pipe. I'm assuming (and hoping of course!) that this should be perfect. Anyone have any feedback on this??

She is pretty mangled! You should be able to put an o-ring around the underside of the lip. It's worth a try anyway! A lot of cars have an o-ring as the sealing method. I would get the hammer out and flatten of the flange as best as possible though. When reinstalling try to put a good amount of downward pressure to flatten the o-ring a bit into the block. RB30 dipsticks are shorter then 26 but not sure about 20 or 25. Someone else might know?

Wow, that's a heavy duty turbo hanger! Sometimes you just don't think of how much heat can affect things.

Shattering. Golf R driver thinks they've got your measure now. I kept tilting my head back to try and see over the dash! Camera needs more legs! Least of your worries at the moment though! I reckon the engine sounded a bit gravelly right from the start. It's not like you were caning it when she went pop.

Why bother doing that Tony? Why not just pull the engine out, makes shit like that so much easier. With the amount of heat that has been in the engine the bottom end will most likely be rooted. Extreme heat shrinks pistons usually. It would be shattering to fix up the top end, bolt it back together only to find death rattle from major piston slap. Just saying..... You might have another plan in mind!

Could be just the camera amplifying the sound but that sounds bottom end noise to me rather than top end. It has the characteristic bottom end thump as opposed to top end rattle. Very unusual for it to be so intermittent thought. Extremely hard to tell via a vid. Taken it to a workshop to get someone to check it?

So Frank has some work ahead of him then! Sounds good Tony, should be bloody good fun to thrash around the track. You can't beat being able to drive your car to the track, thrash it then drive it home again! The RB30 wasn't tempting enough for you???

I saw it parked out the back last week (straight down the end through the gate). I thought it might be your car. They've got some burnt out p.o.s parked out the front that they must be keeping to try and get money out of some other poor bastard!

One of my best mates had a large brain tumour removed (it looked like a clump of cauliflower!). His was about the same size and it was located around the nerves that control the hearing for his left ear. He had his tumour sucessfully removed (about 10 years ago now) and is fine now. When I say fine but not perfect he lost all hearing in his left ear and was a bit vague for 12 months but certainly better than being dead. Modern medical science is pretty amazing nowadays mate so you'll be right! Things like this make you realise and then appreciate the more important things in life- family, friends and fun.

If you look a bit closer you'll see his name in the email! He's legit! Even if it was traced it's amazing! Incredible detail.

LSD or single spinner? I've got both. Pm me.

Yes he is. Inlet manifold is gentle on studs compared to the expansion and contraction of the exhaust side. Stick with the stockers.

Mate that's shattering news!! There's few worse dramas than throwing a leg out of bed... As Paul said, at least now you can get it all sorted properly (oil control). Planning an all out build or keep it simple? I've got a spare forged bottom end if you want a quick repair .

I'm hoping it was a grammatical error! Otherwise, get rooted!