Shoota_77

Top End Last week I pulled the head off my spare RB26 to prep to go onto my impending RB30 bottom end. The thing is a bit of a pig so hopefully comes up ok after a good cleanup- Plans for the head are cleaning up the ports, crack test, pressure test, reface head, regrind valves (3 angle seats) and general tidy up of oil returns, etc. I'll be putting in my Tomei Poncam Type B's and Brian Crower valve springs/titanium retainers.

(Not mine, just interesting!) I remember hearing about this car when I was doing my mechanical apprenticeship in the late 90's. It was all built from brand new parts in Echuca by (from memory) an auto electrician. A truly amazing car when you consider it was built in the mid to late 90's when the R series Skylines were only new. The VL is a pretty light car so it would be awesome fun to drive especially considering one of the biggest problems with the VL's was they didn't go around corners! Mine felt like a snow plow when you wanted to go around corners! With the AWD I'm sure that issue has been greatly improved. It's a lot of money but considering how rare it is and much work has gone into it, it would be an awesome addition to a car nuts collection. Good fun to throw around a track every now and then. I love how it's such a sleeper too, you'd give a few people a bit of a surprise with it. http://australianmusclecarsales.com.au/muscle/93427

To do it properly you'll need to remove the whole roof lining from the car (not just the soft lining, the whole thing), You can do it in the car but may not be as succesful as it keeps trying to droop down while you're trying to stick it back up. Peel back the section that is coming loose (if you just want to fix that section), spray with contact adhesive (from Bunnings, Supercheap, etc) on BOTH the soft roof lining and the backing panel (not too much that it soaks through), leave until it's tacky both sides then pull the soft lining back over where it needs to go (holding it up over the top, not letting it touch yet) then progressively press the two sections together working towards the outside. It's hard to explain so hopefully that makes sense!

I thought it was going to be a trick question!

I agree with battery. Get yourself the seal kits, a tube of rubber grease and get dirty! Pretty easy job really.

I reckon (but please don't hold me to it!!) that Commodore connectors will fit. They're only three prong but they look like they will line up properly.

It's pretty normal. I just pulled my head apart and same deal, a couple of the bolts seized in the caps. I rushed through it a bit and just powered through undoing them. In hindsight I would have taken a bit more time and soaked them in CRC to try to loosen them. I would soak them in degreaser before you re-assemble them to loosen them. The wholes won't need to be reamed. Once the bolts are off give them a quick hit on the wire wheel to get rid of the buildup on them. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace the bolts that were tight in case they got stretched.

For your 32 or 34? They're slightly different for the offset on the p/s belt.

I don't want to start an argument but you can just tee it into one of the turbo oil drains. The preferential way is definately into the sump but not mandatory.

Does the engine need to come out of the bay to gain access? Yes, unless you pull the head off. Does the head need to be removed from block? Only if the engine is still in the car. Does the head need any type of drilling/machining/welding for provision to attach the drain fitting(s)? Yes, knock out the welch plug then drill and tap two holes. Does the sump need to be seperated from the block? No but if you pulled out the engine you possibly would to plumb it into sump. Does the sump need any type of drilling/machining/welding for provision to attach the drain fitting(s)? As per above, only if you remove engine. The biggest part is removing the engine. Personally I would remove the engine and coincide it with other bits and pieces to make it worthwile.

www.e-go.com.au VERY cheap but make sure they're very well packaged (padded) though.

Best price inc delivery? How many Klm's? Mods? Sound good? Good acceleration? Does he bite?

Tah. Now for street time.....

I did yes. Still work for Bayford but now at Camberwell Volkswagen. Do you work for the group as well?

When you spent $30K on extras on top of your $20K for the car knowing it'll only ever be worth $20K!

As above, it always blows out well above what you think it will cost. Don't rush buying stuff. Builds that have started out like you intend to that then subsequently run out of money go up for sale from time to time. Wait for one to come up and snap it up cheap. People get desperate when their circumstances change and they need money. It's happened to all of us! PM'd about such an instance.....

That is one sexy, neat fuel setup! Matches the rest of a logical, well laid out build. Props to you! More vids are required!

I bought a coilover kit and some billet wheel nuts for my Datto from them a while ago. They were good to deal with and answered emails quickly. Got the items only a few days later. Haven't bought anything significant off them though. They have a good reputation from everyone I know that has dealt with them.

My quick Google search brought up- Arias Wossner (??) HKS CP JE ACL Gong Chang (holy crap, the Chinese are on board the forgie train!!) Apexi Pretty good choice really..

I'm not sure who's insinuating you're an idiot but it's certainly not me! I'd love to know what went wrong though. I've got 2 RB's with forged CP's so keen to know what could potentially go wrong. Are the slugs going in a brand new engine? The reason I ask is most of our 12-21 year old RB's are pretty much due for re-sizing by the time their due for new pistons. Sorry for deflecting from your goal!

Buy a Nismo Coppermix, comes with one. For freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Unfortunately you've gotta pay the $2300 for the clutch first......... Otherwise Nissan or Just Jap had them on sale a while back.

Issues with CP? Really? They're one of the best going around. What happened?

Power steering. Possibly worth getting flushed while you're getting a service. Generally lasts a few years before being cactus. In saying that the Nissan p/s fluid seems to last a bit longer. Chances are it's a few years old by now so just do it regardless.

That's a very nice lobster you have there!

Soon to be dirty 30/26..... Someone bought themselves a Chrissy present. If my wife knew I'd be a dead man!!! Aiming for around 375-400atw wheels with my -5's. Am I dreaming with these numbers? Should be nice and responsive with a reasonable top end but nothing too crazy. I've pulled the head off my spare engine so will need to get that machined, crack tested etc. I've just received in the mail a set of Tomei Poncam Type B's and a set of Brian Crower valve springs with titanium retainers. They're both very pretty! I'll put them once the head is all sorted. I'll do a bit of a head tidy up as well. Things have just got out of hand.