Shoota_77

Damn, I need to know some people that know the man to get a drive! Looks awesome!

Bought a carbon bonnet because A) a part of me likes the look of them, B) I don't like my current bonnet with the scoop poorly cut out of it and C) it was cheap! It looks pretty sexy as a contrast to the white paint. It has a bit of a bubble under it in one small spot but for the price it was a good buy. I disregarded the negativity of putting cams into a relatively mild engine and ordered a set of Tomei Poncam Type B's. Hopefully put a little bit more poke into the lower/mid range. Not fussed about top end particularly. I don't know how to use the bottom end properly let alone worrying about what it'll do full noise!

Bought a new boot lid and spoiler last week to give the car a slightly more factory look. I'll keep both at this point so I can mix it up every now and then. The big carbon wing is a bit ricer but I still like it. Rolled the old girl out of the garage for the first time in a few months for a bit of a wash- Tightarse paint touch up- One of my other babies-

Decided to have a bit of a go at some polishing- Thinking possibly wrinkle black for rockers, turbo pipe and intake manifold and polished coil pack cover. Still tossing it up though. Clutch was pretty much gone on the leading edge so tossed up for weeks trying to find a cheap option (!!) but ended up lashing out on a Nismo Coppermix Cpmpetition twin plate. Can't wait to actually use it, some point in the future hopefully! Can I just say the Nismo clutch is one sexy piece of machinery! It seems such a shane to bolt a tranny over the top of it, man it's hot!

Any info on the ATI front diff? LSD? Tried Googling but couldn't find any info on ATI doing anything other than gear sets for Ford diffs!

We use National Windscreens through my work. They're super cheap. Some mildly questionable work at times but you can't have everything I guess!! They have a few locations all round Melbourne.

Very hard to tell but does sound to be belt or idler bearing related. I would take off your outer belts one at a time and start it briefly in between removing each to see if noise still there. Spin each of the idlers/tensioners and auxillaries (alternator, water pump, a/c comp) to see if they make any noise or feel rough to turn. If it's still making the noise with all belts off it's probably going to be the timing belt or again a pulley bearing.

Thanks for the commiserations! As much as I hate not driving it, I must admit that a big part of my enjoyment of owning cars is actually working on them. I probably wouldn't drive it a whole lot more than I do now anyway. The saddest fact is that the bit that I enjoy even more than anything else is buying shit fot it! Half of it won't even end up on the car but I love buying it anyway! I'm sure there are a few other people in the same boat... Chris- Yeah (the other) Chris mentioned they were working on one. I'm not sure if they're going to release it as a kit though or just an in house job they'll do? Be awesome if they did provided it's priced right. Racepace are very good but can charge.... I can understand an extra charge for the development costs but in reality it could be done for $3000-$4000 I'd have thought. The Tomie, HKS, Brian Crower, etc are adding extra for their name which is understandable. SimonR32- Thanks heaps for that, I'll definately do that with the cap screws, it'll be a lot easier to torque them up using allen heads rather than the shitty phillips head. Even on the brand new pump it was still a bitch getting some of the screws undone even with an impact driver. Ok, a bit more work I've done- Cleaned up intake tracts a tiny bit. From- To- Not sure if it will make a scrap of difference but it looks prettier! Had to replace both the block coolant fitting as they were corroded pretty bad. Meant having to take off the inlet manifold which I wasn't intending on doing.

One thing of concern and a possible reason for why my oil pump went was that the main balancer bolt was loose. Now I don't mean it wasn't torqued to the right tightness, I mean I went to put the socket on the head of the bolt and it turned by hand! It was probably half a turn off seated against the balancer..... Not sure if that happened over time or whether it's never been tight? Dismantled the front and took off the oil pump and no surprises really- Even the housing was cracked from the expolsion- Í tossed up for weeks what was going to do for an oil pump! My tightarse nature was preventing me lashing out on a top end pump, although I knew it would be a better option. I've been tossing up building an RB30/26 or a 2.8L stroker so didn't want to spend too much on this engine until I worked out what I was doing. I still haven't decided but it's looking unlikely at the moment due to "other committments". In the end I bought an N1 pump and a set of Reimax gears for it.

On the stand- Ripped the sump off and found it to be pretty grubby. The car was running mega rich when I first got it so I think the oil was just frequently fuel soaked.

Ok, jumping back half a stage, here are some crappy Iphone pics of how the engine bay looked the day before she went boom- So, jump forward to about 6 or 8 weeks ago and it was pretty much a no brainer that I would be doing it all myself at home. If you read the title about the tightarsed bit, that's me in a nutshell. I just can't justify the additional outlay of paying people to do stuff to my car. This will no doubt cause me grief at some point along the way but that's the price I'll pay! In my past life I was a qualified mechanic but it's been 10 years since I had tools in my hand so this feels all a bit new again! I pretty much got straight into it and ripped it all apart with reckless abandon! I did take a few photos along the way to help with the re-assembly as I've learnt in the past, when I pull shit apart, it's sometimes a VERY long time again before it goes back together! Here's a few pics of the process- Can I just say, gee I wish I knew about removing the release arm pivot pin!! I read a few different things about removing the engine before I got stuck into it but I must've just read R32 stuff with a push clutch. In an admission of stupidity, it took me ages to work out what was going on and why I couldn't get the engine out. I was getting pretty cranky by that stage! Once the pin was removed it all came out piece of piss. God damn it's a heavy engine though! My engine stand is supposedly 1500kg but it's straining under the weight of the big RB. It's a bastard to try to roll over! Ideally a ratchetting style engine crane would make life a lot easier for rotating the engine around.

Ok, I dont know that what I'm doing on my car deserves a build page but at the very least it can be a diary of work done for when I possibly ever sell the car'! Ok, so I bought the car about 10 months ago while on holidays on the Goldy. I hired a car and drove 3 hours down into NSW to take a look, decided I was happy so bought it and had it shipped back to Vic. This is a few pics of the car as I got it (apologies for poor quality)- Body is in very good condition but front and rear bumpers have copped a fair hiding over the years. The first thing I decided to play with was a quick repair on the front bar- Make up a backing plate to glass onto to retain the shape- Cut out the worst part- And glassed in the new section- It was at this (very early!) point that I decided I was over body already and determined to get stuck into the engine. I'll get back to the body a long, long way down the track... The car was currently making 292kw at the wheels so ok but not exhillerating! The first round of mods were- 1000cc Injector Dynamics squirters Nismo fuel pump Apexi Super Suction kit High flow cat New radiator (52mm from memory) Adjustable cam pulleys Blitz SBC ID Spec R boost controller Plus tidying up a few things (rocker breather and vacuum lines). After these mods I limped the car to Racepace to see Chris for a tune. At the time, it was presumed the car had -7 turbos on it as they were on it before I got it so I didn't know for sure. It now turns out they're -5's so http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/smile.png is now a little more http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/sad.png. Anyway, that will be rectified in the future..... So, the car ended up making 322Kw at the rears backed back to 315Kw for a safe tune- Drove home, relatively happy with the results, albeit a little nervous as it was pissing down rain! Next day, drove to work, all good. Took one of the guys for a spin at lunch, all good. Got back to the carpark and gave it one, solitary, 8000rpm rev and nek minnit, oil light on! I'm thinking "surely it's just a sticky pressure switch or something" so I idled it for a few secs but I could just start to hear the valve train rattling a tiny bit due to having no oil so engine off, RACV on the phone and my one day old freshly tuned car makes it's way home to the garage. The first job was to pull off the oil pressure unit and confirm it was definately oil pressure. Once removed I super quickly started the car and not one drop of oil came out. Verdict- one shattered oil pump. Now the fun begins..... I'm doing it all from home in the garage with fairly limited tools and extremely limited time so bear with me if you will!

I believe vids are required to fully appreciate the powa! Awesome results though, well done for being a bit different. That custom exhaust work is brilliant!

I'll give your builder one thing, they sure do build a pretty engine! Looks sexy. Presumably with a bit fat top mount T04Z it should go a little bit ok too......

I've always thought this would be an amazing conversion. Insanely good engine. Huge amount of work though, predominantly in getting the sump right. One positive is that they both have an alloy sump so grafting one to the other is theoretically possible. Huge amount of work though presumably..... Just do it and we'll all know!

What changes, if any does changing to a mechanical LSD rear end make to your system? Do the racing guys generally do it? Thanks.

Yes Terry, sold it last week.

Sir. After gazing at your curly bits, you are most certainly exhonerated from any liability after yanking yourself over those pipes, they're horn!! What sort of revs do those fat boys kick in at, 14,000rpm??? When Spool bring out their RB38 stroker kit that they're working on that should bring them in a bit earlier. Any dyno figures of results?

Last bump before remaining stuff goes into storage (the bin!) This is what's left- K&N M's Intake Piping. Probably need new filters. Comes with 2X genuine Jecs air flow sensors and plugs. $25. Ski chains for 14-18" Wheels. See picture for exact sizes they fit. Why hire?? $25. Genuine mats, pretty good condition, would come up good with a clean $25 FREE!!! Orignal Radiator. No leaks but probably needs a flush. $$Postage Only Brand new 80mm throttle body with weld on adapter (was purchased for SR20 but will work on other cars $125. Brand new 3" Weld in high flow cat 100 cell. $125

Couple of amazing cars mate, you're the envy of most people on here to have not one but TWO GT-R's!!! What the hell do you do for a job to afford them both? Something to do with mining no doubt!! Keep up the great work.

Did it properly....... Sent my sump to NZ today to be sent back looking like below. Looks like it should do the job. Holds about 9-9.5L. PM me if anyone wants details. Basically cost me $800 including freight both ways. Only one I've seen with such good cooling fins.

Does that cover it? Let me know if you need more photos.

If no one comes up with goods before tomorrow I've got my engine out at the moment so should be able to get pics for you. I know what you mean though, it's like spaghetti under there!!

Exhaust looks a bit restrictive...... Bit heavy too. Shiny though.

Hey guys, thanks for the info. Uwissh- Not trying to be a smartarse but my post above yours is pretty clear about the welding. If I do end up doing it, I'll see how my alloy tigging skills are and I might make an additional side section to replace the baffled bit on the side on the std sump. I'll make it then get it welded on by a pro. I bought the alloy to do for all of $5 from the scrap metal joint the other day. It's 4mm thick so should be strong enough. Where do you stop money wise??? That's always a consideration. I intend to track the car once I eventually get it back together but it might be 2, maybe 3 times a year max. I know it only takes one gut full of air to kill the whole engine but it's risk versus expense i guess! I'm a poor man playing in a rich mans game.....