Shoota_77

Ok, I will live to regret this but you gotta live for the moment! I'm planning on hopefully building an RB30/26 setup for my Skyline so need to free up some coin. I thought I''d list in on here if someone has a side project or may know someone into 200''s/Silvias. I'm seeling my 58000km S14 Series II SR20DET engine that I was going to go in one of my Datsun 1200 Utes. It comes with the following- Complete Engine 5 Speed Transmission OS Giken Performance clutch (done around 15000kms) Wiring loom Factory computer Power FC computer and controller. New Stainless (sexy!) turbo manifold (and standard as well) New Stainless dump pipe New Maddat crossmember for Datsun 1200 and engine mounts (no Maddat trans mount, just standard S14 mount) New manifold stud kit Standard T28 Turbo Braided oil/coolant lines for turbo Tailshaft (for modifying to suit recipient vehicle). I can't think if there is anything else. I'm chasing around $4000 in total. All up it's cost me about $5500 (Engine and trans $3000, Power FC $1000, OS Giken $1000, extras $500. The cheapest one on Ebay is $2500 with no trans, wiring, computer, etc, etc! Feel free to ask any questions.

Now I'm confused... The turbo you use won't change your comp ratio. Comp ratio is a mechanical thing only modified by structural changes to head shape, piston shape, deck height, etc. If what you're asking is "When you put on a bigger turbo will it cause comp ratio issues (pinging)" then yes, correct. The higher the static comp ratio, generally the less boost you can pump in without detonation issues. Unless of course you up the type of juice you're using to overcome these issues (100+ octane or E85 which is a more stable fuel under high compression). Sometimes the shape of the piston and combustion chamber can affect this too. Sharp edges that get super hot can cause pre combustion too. Is that what you're getting at?

I really wouldn't want a lot more power than what I have now. I reckon the off boost power of the 30 would make it so much better than the 26. Mid to high 300's would be as driveable as a low 400's 26. Happy to stand corrected! Anyone shot preened/prepped standard rods making big power?

I think I've heard about a Neo converted 26 head, anyone know anything bout that? Sounds like the best of both worlds. In regards to the standard conversion I'd do 90% of the work myself so labour no probs, just machining I could see blowing out.

Ain't that the truth! The parts cost won't change it's just the extra stuff you don't allow for that adds up. Plus the fact that more power is never enough! I read your build thread, any ideas what just your engine cost?

Hey guys, thinking about building an RB30/26 on the side to put in my 33 GTR. Has anyone done an accurate cost calculation of the whole conversion? These are my rough calculations- RB30 $300 Pistons $700 Rods $600 Sump adapter $1000 Head gasket $450 Gaskets $300 Bearings $150 Main bolts $150 Head bolts $150 Machining $500?? Other stuff (tensioner, cam belt, etc) $300 Total $4600 How does that sound? What have I missed, or miscalculated? Love to hear cost saving techniques or good sources for the bits. Thanks.

I'm 6'8" and actually don't find my 33 GTR too bad (relative to my Datsun 1200 Ute anyway!). In Melbourne there is a business in Coburg (Franks Engineering) that perform seat modifications and engineers them. I seem to remember them being pretty good price-wise.

I reckon you already are!!! I'm a pictures man, anyone got a shot of an NPC? I'd prefer not busting anyones balls at the suppliers directly as I don't wanna waste their time if I don't end up buying. Rather bust everyones balls here!! Any idea on price of the NPC Twin??

Ok, I'm leaning Nismo then. I f'ing hate shuddering on take off from grabby clutches. My powerless Datto 1200 ute has a solid clutch (god only knows why!!!) and it shites me to tears in traffic! You look like a clown every time you try to creep off. It's like a switch, on or off. Shite.

That's the bloody annoying thing. Hitting the limiter once like I did shouldn't have shat the thing. I guess it was just gunna happen, fortunately it happened while static. I''ve had the car for 6 months but only put a few thousand kms on it. I got it back from the tuners yesterday so a brief rush of blood to the nether regions and here we are. Plus side? I used heaps less fuel on the back of the tilt tray than if I'd driven!! I''m kinda pumped about pulling the engine out anyway. Heaps of other stuff I can do while it's out.

Looks good. Makes it pretty good value including the lightened flywheel. Is it really ''bitey''? Being sprung I spose it's not too bad?

My tuner was saying the R33 already has the longer crank collar and doesn''t need the sleeve, is that right??

Thanks for your help.......

Already a forged engine but definately plan to look at oil control. Oil drains in head, cam baffles (can do anytime obviously) and sump baffles at a minimum. Build thread? Dunno if it''ll be interesting enough! But then again..... Pretty tempted to look at RB30/26.. Might offload some Datsun stuff and see what I can afford. I''ll do it all myself so could be worthy of a thread. Might go research the RB30...

Ok, as per my clutch post I think I've just killed my oil pump due to stupidity or possibly just a case of was always gunna happen just when. Anyway, that got me thinking about what pump do I put in. I've read all the posts about N1's self destructing and at this point i'm a victim of the N1 curse (mine is N1 but a few years old now). I spoke to Chris at Racpace who did the tune on my car and he said they still predominantly fit N1's. They do a lot of track cars and some pretty high performance stuff at that. He said the only time he wouldn't fit an N1 would be to say a drift car that is bouncing off the limiter on a regular basis. So I'm in two minds, spend say $450 and get an N1 or go nuts and spend $1400 on a Nitto or $1700 on a Tomei and hope to never have a problem again??? Decisions, decisions. Your thoughts gentleman? And keep it clean, this topic seems to get people a little emotional......

Thanks heaps guys, all great info. But you know what, I'm none the wiser!!! That's a good thing though as they all sound fantastic. For what my car is making I think any of them will be fine. I haven't really set a budget but if I can get an equivallent clutch with just as many good reports as the clutch twice it's price then it's a bit of a non brainer really! Only problem is I (think) shat my oil pump today!! Simplest f'ing thing too! Took a guy for a spin, got back to work, being a bit of a dick did a static rev to bout 8000rpm, nek minit, no oil pressure, faaaaaaaaarrrrrrrkkkkkkkkk!!!! That was an expensive piece of stupidity. Could have been worse, might have gone boom at high speed which would be a different story. Hopefully bottom end should be ok. Next decision is how much to do while the engine is out.............

Oops!!! My bad! Ok, NPC in consideration now (to keep Hadouken happy!) Any pics of an NPC setup?

You've confused me there!! Hadouken (as per usual!!! ) is spruiking the NPC but you're saying forget about it! Please clarify so my brain can get back to thinking about important stuff.... Lunch.... Joe- Wow, that's an impressive story! 100 launches is enough to test any clutch so they must be pretty bloody tough!

Hey guys, I know my clutch is going to fry at some point so going to get something organised in advanced rather than having to wait for 6 weeks while a new clutch arrives. I searched through various posts but couldn't find one that specifically compared the two. The only Jim Berry clutches I've seen are a standard looking diaphragm plate but with a puck type friction disc. Do thy do a multi-plate version? My car will be mainly used on the street but I'll be doing the odd drag run at Calder and also a bit of track play (not full racing) as well. My car currently makes 315kw at the wheels. Hopefully a bit more in the future so would rather allow for that now. I appreciate any opinions or previous experiences. Cheers.

-7's Forged bottom end Z32 AFM's - Apexi Super suction 3 - 3 1/2" Exhaust ID1000cc injectors Nismo fuel pump Stock cams Tomei adjustable cam gears Power FC Hi flow cat (apparently!) Topped out at 322kw, backed off a bit to 315kw. Love to get anyones feedback on the power and curve! Seems a bit soft to me??

Good work Brad! Thanks for that. Hopefully Jacob who bought the EVC see this as I''m sure it''ll come in handy. Thanks again Brad. Remember to bust my balls if you have ID1000 issues!

Sorry Terry but boost controller is gone but no, no instructions.

Coilovers sold pending payment/pickup Monday. Open to offers on everything else!!!

Awesome car! I love the first video of you feathering the throttle on flyby, awesome power and sound! Do you also run on 95ULP at times or just E85 the whole time? Do you need to make any changes to the management system or does it self adjust to accomodate between the different fuels?? I've got a United servo near me that sells E85 (conveniently on the way to Calder Park too) so would love to run the odd tank here and there but not all the time. I've got a Power FC though. Cheers.

Price updates. Original GT-R Coilovers. Very good condition, no signs of oil leaks at all. $150. K&N M''s Intake Piping. Probably need new filters. Comes with 2X genuine Jecs air flow sensors and plugs. $100. Original GT-R Steering Wheel. Exceleent condition for age, tiny bit of roughening on top. $150. Original GT-R Fuel Pump. Worked perfectly. $50. Orignal GT-R Cam Gears. No signs of wear. $15. Z32 Air Flow Sensor Plug. New plug, original wiring. $10. Ski chains for 14-18"" Wheels. See picture for exact sizes they fit. Why hire?? $50. FREE!!! Orignal Radiator. No leaks but probably needs a flush. $$Postage Only.