Shoota_77

He started out slapping the lifted truck brigade which is pretty funny because they're a fairly cliched bunch of morons. Very bogan Commodore driving type people (sorry @MLR!). He then did the Hilux durability test where he punished an old school 80's/90's Hilux till it died. He became the target of the modern day keyboard warriors who were triggered by his content and personally attacking him. That triggered him to trigger them even more! Look, I hate the waste and the blatant stupidity but it's his job at the end of the day! Forgot to mention a lot of his following has come from his insanely massive monstertruck he built (Monstermax).

I can live with him. Luckily I've been watching ALL of his vids well before het started harming GT-R's so I was ready for what was coming! He gets his kicks out of upsetting keyboard warriors and I'm ok with that! Not gunna lie, still hurts to see one go down though! Let's be honest, he's done us all a favour. There's one less GT-R in the world making them all the more rare!

Obviously depends on what you're after. I would love a scissor lift hoist but I would only use it to wash under my car and change wheels/brakes! I've got a 2 post clear floor hoist and it is unbelievably handy for EVERYTHING. Mine is just a cheap brand (Bulletpro) and I bought it secondhand so only cost me about $1000(AUD). It's been amazing as seeing my car has lived on it for 8 years I can lift it up to sweep up the dead spiders underneath.....

100%. With a factory block you're always going to be chasing your arse adding to it or assuming at some point it's going boom!

Next engine I built would 100% be the PRP cast block. They're not stupid so they will cover EVERY weak point of the engine and remedy it. Yeah $8K is a larger initial investment than either your own existing block or buying a new factory block but you won't need to spend anywhere near as much on it to make it strong enough to handle big power. It will be interesting to see if they have a base engine with options on top or just have a fully inclusive package.

Back from Tassie. Managed to break my foot which was not ideal. Have been laid up for the last 4 or 5 days. Now Shepparton is in pretty bad flood. Thankfully neither my house or work are in danger. 20221016_164833.mp4 Got the tie down point panel welded back on and ground down. Won't keep chasing the holes with weld, I'll just put a tiny skim of body filler in them. Will do the factory spot welds on the other side for uniformity. Won't get much done the next few weeks as I can only spend so long on my feet because of my busted hoof. Had a biiiiig order up of big and little parts while I've been laid up. Being injured is expensive....

The tie down panel I ordered arrived from America yesterday so got started prepping it for welding. Marked the spots where I need to drill holes in the new panel then buffed the primer off those areas before spraying those areas with weld through primer. Didn't get to weld it, will have to wait till I get back from Tassie next week. Had an amazing day yesterday, as part of a Volkswagen incentive we went to Sydney Motorsport Park and got to thrash Golf R, T-Roc R and Tiguan R's around the track with pro driver trainers. Was a very fun day! Hot laps with the drivers was amazing too. Cannot believe how they get grip at the speeds they're doing! Drift Mode in the Golf Rs was a pisser in the wet! 20221005_142842.mp4

I could have done that but I wanted the whitest version available so went with that. Will most likely paint the whole car so everything will be matched then. Not fussed if the engine bay is a lot whiter than the body. If I decide to just do bumpers, side skirts, etc but not the rest of the body then I will paint match those parts to the body.

Yeah it really was one of those major mental hurdles to get over. Like everything the hardest bit is just starting! Once you do it’s a really good feeling! Even just in primer it looks amazing even just for how uniform everything is compared to poorly applied, grubby, faded 26 year old paint!

Not bad for my first effort. Was absolutely shitting myself just to get started! I was sweating bullets. Had some teething issues (apart from me being retarded) but got the gun all setup and working nicely. Did a bit of practice spraying and then dove straight in! A few boo boos and stuff ups but all together pretty bloody happy to have smashed it out! I'm in Tassie on a dirt bike tour for a week so won't get to touch it for a while so glad I got it all sealed up with the epoxy. Another new skill acquired! Sorry, I'm a bit chuffed at the moment from conquering my fears! 🤣🤣 20221002_171856.mp4

Ha ha, cheers mate. Only time will tell if I do it justice or make it look worse!! I'm hoping to lay some paint this afternoon if I get the other bits and pieces (door hinges, rad support panel, etc) stripped and ready for paint. Wish me luck!!!!

Might be able to see more of our fresh engine bay paint if we don't have stonkingbig c/c's covering it all up!

I'm in the process of transplanting my fuel tank into the engine bay specifically as a catch can, should look nice.

Righto, who's already forked out their folding for a set of the newly announced PRP vented/baffled cam covers? I will but need to let the sting of 2 months hard part gathering to subside a little before I take the plunge! They will be an awesome thing if they deliver what they promise being minimal oil leaving the breathers. Saves having to have a catch can the size of a fuel tank in the engine bay! https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/platinum-racing-products-rb-twin-cam-baffled-cam-covers

Still waiting on my tie down point panel from US. I was hoping it would arrive before I slap the epoxy on this weekend but not looking likely unfortunately. I've finished the prep and now pretty much finished masking the doors and under the vehicle at the rear where I'm not (currently....) painting. I'm VERY confident I will do the back while I'm at it but I'll get the front all coated, seam sealed, etc before deciding if I do it now or down the track. The way I've prepared everything it will be very easy to just do the rear section as a separate job. I'm putting in a non V-Spec mechanical diff, Hicas lockbar, AN8 fuel hardlines (supply and return) and a Frenchy's in tank fuel setup before it goes back on the road so I definitely need to remove the subframe and fuel tank regardless of whether I paint the arse end or not. Obviously would be dumb to NOT do it while it's all sitting on the ground but history has told me if I get too balls deep in something that is when I lose interest and get over it. I refuse to let that happen this time around so playing it safe! My masking job is as ugly as a 90 year old mans ball sack but as long as it keeps the paint out of where it shouldn't be then it's done its job! It's quite tricky masking up to an exterior edge where I'm not painting. I'm using that round soft edge foam tape which hopefully does a nice transition that can't be seen....

Hi guys, as per above I'm chasing a set of R33 GT-R front inner guard liners. The larger front section, not the skinny longer section. Wanting good ones, not clapped out ones with big holes or multiple broken tabs, etc. Sucks that you can still buy GTS-T liners brand new cheap as but they don't make GT-R ones any more.... Many thanks! Ewan.

Nice mate, she's looking good!!!! I just bought one of the PRP a/c compressor relocation kits too. Sorry I should read back and/or remember but are running electric p/s now?

Wow, what a journey! She looks nice after the paint job, nice and white again! I'm sure it will be pretty amazing to see it roll out of the container back in Oz! What took you to Georgia in the first place? Not a country I know a lot about really.

The scraping, sanding, die grinder pad buzzing goes on and on and on.... I really didn't expect it to take so long! I reckon I've put 30 hours so far into just the pre-paint prep work. I'm finally at the point of masking everything up in preparation for the epoxy. Just need the weather to warm up a bit so I can do it after work one night. Epoxy doesn't like being sprayed under 15 degrees (apparently!) so need a warm afternoon. Because I'm painting all along the sills it makes sense to do the top of the sill as well rather than masking a line down the middle of it. Ran into a drama on the drivers side where the striker plate bolts were seized to the body. Even using an impact driver (proper punch style one, not a rattle gun!) but they would not budge. Ended up stripping out the head of both screws. Drilled the centre out of two 12mm ID nuts (to make more room to weld through) and welded them on to the head of the bolts. Between the heat of welding it stretching the bolt and having two nuts to swing off they came straight out thankfully. Wasn't looking forward to have to fix the threads if that didn't work... It's been pretty frightening how quickly flash rust sets in when you've sanded back to bare metal. A few times I've had to sand areas back that have a nice (not nice...) rusty red tinge to them. I've been SUPER conscious of not touching anything with bare hands while I'm working on it but things are still flash rusting pretty quickly. Praying for some warmer days late in the week and finally seal everything up.

I just don't know when to stop..... A lot of the purpose behind stripping it right back was caused by my own mistakes about 8 years ago (when the thought of a restoration of sorts was not even a twinkle in my ballsack) when I thought I was helping by spraying around a bit of rattle can paint while the engine was out for the very first time. It no doubt looked better than it did at the time but that paint just didn't stick all that well so fast forward to now I had to scrape heaps of it off with a scraper which was mind numbingly tedious! I then decided I wasn't happy with that so ended up attacking the whole bay with a scotch brite pad on the die grinder before then hand sanding the whole thing again with 60 grit sandpaper. Apart from welding up a few holes the engine bay is pretty much done and ready for dusting off, wax and greaser wipe down then masking up prior to Epoxy. I'll scuff/sand the wheel arches and underneath tomorrow then it's paint time. Probably not till next week as I've got my kids basketball tournament all weekend so will be away. Would have smashed out a heap if not for that. Right, I'm off to bed...

I actually caused those surface rust spots you can see when I was cleaning it prior to commencing paint prep. I used a few harsh degreasers and it was brutal on any bare metal spots. They rusted instantly. I've rust treated those spots and any other visible rust. I'll be seam sealing every single metal join in the car so once that's done and all sealed up with 5-6 layers of paint there won't be any dramas for another 25 years. If rust is dry when it's coated and has no access to moisture beyond that point, it can't spread any further.

Mate she's gunna be a stunner once it's all done! Looking great.

Very hungover today but determined to crack on when I'd much prefer to suffer in my jocks on the couch and watch YouTube videos of other people moving forwards on their builds but this the new me! For now.... I'm tipping I'll be back there in a few hours. Got shipping notification that the new panel has been shipped from the Nissan dealer in the States so removed the old tow point (jacking point...... 😏) panel. Came off pretty easily to be honest. I've had a bit of experience drilling out spot welds on my first Datto Ute so remembered some of what I learnt back then (10-12 years ago..). Bit of cleaning up the remnants of the spot weld and she'll be ready to weld the new panel on once it arrives.

Thanks mate! Hopefully my high quality, boutique spray “boof” inspires some quality painting! 😂 Bought all the paint (epoxy primer, primer filler/surfacer, QM1 base coat, 2K clear and all associated reducers, hardeners, etc today. Fark that hurt a little….. About $1000 all up and that is only enough to do about 50% of the car…. After buying everything (spray gun, sandpaper, masking tapes and plastics, the tarps for my spray booth, the paint, etc, etc, etc) it DEFINITELY would have been cheaper to pay someone else to do it but where’s the fun in that? I’ll still have all of the gear to be able to tackle more painting jobs plus I’m looking forward to gaining some new skills during the painting process. But also dreading the fact that I could completely fark it at the same time!! 😂 Only time will tell I guess! Oh another interesting fact I learnt today. There are about 5 or 6 DIFFERENT shades of QM1. Apparently it’s pretty common to have same paint code and multiple different versions. Shouldn’t that mean it’s a different paint code….. Bloody dumb if you ask me! I went with the whitest, cleanest looking version which is straight white with a dash of black in it versus the others which have varying shades of yellow in them.

I guess the key to this is that there IS a very slight ripple in the panel that the tow point is connected to but given the amount of force require to bend that jacking point, if it did no more than a tiny ripple from that, jacking it up from there is going to be a walk in the park! In saying that I’ve never used it as a jacking point but I’ll be forever impressed by it’s strength standing up to my sledgie action so won’t have any hesitations in the future! 😂