superspit

I'm willing to bet that a good condition stock BOV is still better, in this case!! Just way too many 'joints and screw in parts' on the After Market stuff. Do you think the whole BOV thing on a relatively standard car may be a bit of a wank??? I mean, they look good 'en all.....but........

Hi, and thankyou to those who gave advice on my G-FORCE thread! Some interseting things came from that!! Anyways....Installed the GFB BOV last nite (after boost/rev problem was sorted as per previous thread), and I'm about to take the bloody thing BACK OFF! Noise is nice..if ur into that...but power flow is lost...that is...boost comes on slower, but still there. I've checked for leaks: I suspect that the valve itself is so badly built that it has inherent leaking abilities. After my G-FORCE issue thread, I now realise that even the slightest leak in our cars induction system will cause grief...and potentially more dollars to find and fix. Has anyone else expd this? GOOGBYE to Go Fast Bits BOV......and f**k you! Thanx.Mark.

Hey JD......going to TRUFIT exausts in 1 hour.....more than 1 person has suggested that the CAT Convertor has self distructed (BLOCKING THE EXAUST PIPE!!) causing low RPM and therefore no power.....but car still runs nice when not pushed!!! i FIND OUT FOR SURE SOON!!!! Thanx man........respect. ALL SKLINE PPL....HI......and read top original thread........FIXED PROBLEM...this is crazy stuff........something so bloody simple has aged me 10 years!!!!!!

Thanx...can this sort of thing happen "just like that"...I mean, drive to work,finish work go home to find timing is retarded... woah! I will get my ECU checked. Is there any way I can tell if it has gone into diagnostic mode?

Thanx...can this sort of thing happen "just like that"...I mean, drie to work,finish work go home to find timing is reterded... woah! I will get my ECU checked. Is there any way I can tell if it has gone into diagnostic mode?

Thanks................Does anyone know if I was right in saying that there is a factory boost contoller, (the solenoid looking thing with 2 small pipes and 2 wires going into it) It is located (from front) at the right near the air intake. Could this be stuffed and no longer controlling the WGate? Is this computer part controlled ,but jammed? It made no diff when I disconnected this thing. Does the guage run pre or post waste gate???? I just don't know yet.

Car idles and travels (at standard speed) beautifully. No sputter. When someone mentions cooler pipe, are they saying that it could be leaking, or overheating? No aftermarket boost fitted, I was about to fit the GFB 1003 Hybrid BOV to it the nite that this happened, but now, nup. I'll wait till this gets sorted. Thanks mate.

No, not the clutch. Boost raises way too fast now( middle of 0 and +7 guaged), just no more pick up once you get into 2nd gear onwards. (Seems to be taking off with 'boost', after that really flat) But guage no longer gradual, almost instant +3 to +4 boost indicated.

hi...tonite on the way home from work, my 33 lost its 'G-FORCE' factor. I went to accelerate hard, and nothing...just normal 6 cylinder performance. Everything looked and sounded normal, just no-GO! Boost was being made (according to the guage) but seems like it was no longer going to the right spot!!(?) My little brother suggested tonite, that the WasteGate or its actuator(?) may be keeping the gate open and losing all the energy the turbo is trying to make (?)...sounds reasonable. I disconnected (as a test), the solenoid (2 small pipes and a 2 wire socket attached) that seems to connect to the WG and black induction pipe and it made no difference (I was hoping it would get worse, but it didn't!!) If anyone has had any exp like this, pls help me? It's only been a few hours, but gees!!..I miss that push feeling in my chest!!! Thanx. ps car use to get to 7000rpm in first quickly, now only aprx 4500-5000 and then useless TRUFIT EXHAUST MAN FOUND HOSE CLAMP TO PLENUM CHAMBER HAD COME LOOSE!!!(large APRX 3 INCH RUBBER PIPE JOINING PLENUM AND INTAKE PIPE) CLAMP LOOKED OK, BUT TOUCHED IT WITH FINGER AND IT SPAN LIKE A TOP. NOW GOING SIDEWAYS AGAIN...He didn't even charge me!! happy happy joy joy! THE LAST 2 DAYS HAS AGED ME 10 YEARS IN WORRYING..OVER SUCH A STUPID LITTLE FAULT...GOES TO SHOW.....DOESN'T EVERYONE?

Thanx! All things considered...... This was similar to my initial thought, but then my mech suggested that 'rather than add something to reduce the noise, replace something that is making it'.......... Kool, and it appears to be working!

hi everyone. woah!, excellent responses! this is what i've done..problem was with rear only, front was just too tight, now softened only. The helper spring, located just below the main coil-over spring simply rattles around the OD of the shocker itself, even when on the road and 'captive'. This is just the design of the HKS system, it's built only for track/racing work..unless ofcourse u can put up wid da noise. Now u can 'smear' the whole lower 'helper' spring with heavy grease( messy and lasts for a little while)..or you can see my mechanic and he will exchange your current, good condition springs (all 4 of them on the rear in my case) for koni, bilstein or what ever brand that fits around your shock. It is now a no-nonsense, single spring per shock, quiter and smoother semi standard system that still handles ace and is still fully adjustable via the lowering nuts under the spring as per usual, fine and other adjustment are made via the top part still.(apparantly, there are around 36 seperate settings that can be made on this particular shock) my rear now sound like a proper car (no F***** bump noises) is smoother and not embarrassing me infront of my passenger friends!!. Mike, my mechanic, also fixed my 'spiggot bearing' today as it shit itself after only 5 weeks in Australia...now that was noisy!!! If you want his number, pls send me a private message and I will give it over.Mike works in Moorabbin, on Porcshe and Nissan race cars....and he's no rip off either...ace bloke. You wouldn't think that HKS would make something this noisy, but they are for the race-track...really.

HKS Hypermax Coil-Over Shocks? pretty to look at but! Hi all, the rear of my car makes a dissapointing and embarrassing knocking noise when driving over a slightly bumpy road. I was told by a friend that it is caused by the 'helper-springs(?)' located just below the main spring. The system costs about $2500+ i'm told. They don't look old, but I guess that could mean nothing when it comes to these parts. Nice car,, ride is firm but semi-comfortable, but sounds like a bomb when traversing anything but glass smooth roads!!! I can't really afford to replace them, anyone else have a similar exp.? Any ideas on how I could shut these bloody things up.? Ta, in advance. Mark.

Kinks, woah, you've done a fair amount to it. Love da wheels and headlamps, they r ace. that is the intercooler under your front bumper? wot type (size ) isit? Thanx K, ace pics.

Ta Geoff.

thanx, i'll look for it! Mark

no worries, if you get a chance maybe.....?

it just doesn't look right dimensionally, i know u said it was a real pic, ...looks digital to me(?) ,but ppls have done stranger things!

hey friends, It wasn't until I bought a turbo car that I would realise the potential importance of having a tacho (with a bright 'shift lite' (?)). I initially thought these devices were for the 5 second drag community or show-offs, until I found that every day I bump the engine cut-out at 7000 rpm (aprox(?)) because I cant see the standard, obscured by the steering wheel, tachometer. I have not purchased one yet, as there are so many types and silly sizes to choose...plus I know very little diff between what a quality one should be like compared to a cheapy. ($100-$375). I have allowed myself $200 for a tach. Is this ok? should i spend even more. All i really need is a big bright light to tell me when i'm 'bumpin the curve..' [B]Plus..... where do i find the 'PULSE' wire or 'read' wire for the actual rpm sense on my car (pictured to left)[/b] what can i splice into....ahhhh! i can't wait to get a tach, and an answer here would put me at ease (no auto-elecs visits if i can avoid it!!!) Thanks so much in advance....Mark.

yep..that's it in a nut shell Peter. Have done that now with Mobil 1, and I saw it pour into the hole as I poured it in myself!! thanx man. Mark.

koool !

Hey, using touch. Sounds reasonable! thanx man, ps you got any pics of your 4 door I could look at?

Hi all, it's been 2 weeks since i sold Silvia for Skline, and woah! No going back! I can see what all the 'raves' are about. Q. can you tell if the oil in your sump actually is synth or mineral, by looking, tasting, smelling, touching it. (or do I go to CSI to get the chem breakdown?) It's just that when I got my car serviced the mechanic promised me he'd use a synth oil (and he charged me for it!!), but no spec of oil was in the service report. Maybe i'm just being a little paranoid or untrusting, but hey, we are Skline owners!! Any (serious) ideas, Thanx in advance. Mark.