itpesaf

ps. Anyone know a good place to get the v35's tuned in SA?

Just a quick update - got the plenum spacer, z tube and rev-up airbox installed the other night. After having driven the car a bit, it's noticeably more responsive and the sound coming from the engine bay is deafinately a little throatier. I'll be dyno'ing the car sometime soon to see how much power I'm making with all these mods. As it is the car is about as quick as I want it to be, the only thing I might do in the future is try to get some more low down torque (don't know what mods would be best for this). I'll probably have to do the throttle body reset however because when I start my car up sometimes (after it's warmed up) the idle is a little funny. Would I recommend these mods? All depends on what you want, if it's just more power then go turbo or sc. However if like me you just want a more responsive engine with a little more power, than these mods are great.

Ok it the high flow cats installed and here's what I think - The car definitely feels more responsive, the revs seem to climb at a faster rate than before. The car feels a little more powerful towards the top of the rpm range. The sound is probably the most significant change, it definitely sounds beefier - which is great as I can hardly hear the annoying rattling sound I sometimes get from under the car when I'm in high gear/low rpm lol. I can't wait for my z-tube/rev-up airbox/k&n combo and plenum spacer to arrive I reckon after these mods the only other two performance mods I might do is a tune (any help on where to tune in Adelaide would be great ) and a y-pipe (although no too sure if it'll be worth it).

I've seen dyno sheets of v35's with only a CBE producing 170rwkw :S Mine is a manual so would that make a difference?

hmmmm sux you had to get it re-welded when it was supposed to be a bolt on! hopefully the berks will fit nicely..

hey guys just wanting some advice with regards to my high flow cat installation - 1. how long should the job take at an exhaust shop? (hopefully i'll be taking it in to exhaust plus to get them fitted and wanted to know how much time it should be taking them) 2. do i need to retain the stock cat heat sheilds, or can i do away with them? thanks oh and I also bought a z tube, rev-up airbox and k&n filter package! can't wait till everything is in. With the HFC's, plenum spacer, z tube, rev-up airbox and k&n filter, should I be expecting around 160rwkw?

Just a quick update on this I just bought myself berk high flow cats and a motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer can't wait to get them installed!

I know - hence I won't be making the mistake of buying cheapo's again. ever...

haha I know! all burnouts were done on private roads Nah they actually grip pretty well lol - i was cornering quite hard last night in the rain with no slip at all! Have no idea why the slip light was coming on so much the other day, but it might have something to do with either the tyre pressure because now that I've changed the pressure it seems to grip well, or a banana peel or something being stuck to one tyre causing it to slip a little . Either way I figured they should handle at least better than my old tyres with massive camber wear!

just took it for another drive, did a proper burnout and the slip light flashed. tried a burnout with vdc turned off and there was a big difference lol.. I think I'm just getting a little silly now.

ok heres an update - VDC not working at all :S Did a mini burnout today as I was getting sus as to why the slip lights where not turning on through corners and no vdc, no slip light nothing, just a burnout :S

My car is manual, and there is a degree of clutch chatter when the clutch is not engaged, which I have been told is normal. This sound is under/around 2k rpm, but it honestly sounds like a loose component rattling against something. I'll have to get it checked out at the mechanics sometime soon.

Ok, so here's an update Just went for a drive in the rain (very wet in Adelaide atm) and drove through the hills.. No vdc slip light.. I went through some corners that I had gone through yesterday at the same speed and no light, no traction control, nothing :S I did change the tyre pressure, lowered it from 35psi to 30psi, and after about 40minutes driving I had no slip light. I'm thinking that I might have just had a stone or something stuck in my tyre yesterday (they're new so prone to that) which could have been causing one wheel to slip a little? I'm having a hard time trying to find out what was wrong lol, and trying to find out why these new tyres were causing the slip light to come on when my old tyres with hardly any thread and major camber wear never once caused the slip light to come on..

It happens under load, it sounds like it's coming from under the car and that it's some metallic component hitting another - like a rattle. As for the tyres, I understand and 100% agree with what you say, however I had cheap tyres on my car before (achilies) and they were perfectly fine for my driving style... I've changed the air pressure in the rear tyres to match what I had on my old tyres and will drive a little more to see if I continue getting this problem. If I do I will be ringing my tyre shop and asking them to change them over for a more expensive/better tyre.

I don't think they did an alignment. Not sure about the neutral position - how do i check this? I checked the tyre pressure this morning - the rear pressure was 36 both tyres, and i lowered it to 32 (same as my old tyres)... Should I get a wheel alignment done? and if so do I need to get both front and rears aligned, or is it ok to do just rears as those are the tyres that were changed.

I'm going to check tyre pressure tomorrow... maybe thats whats making a difference?

do you think it would be worthwhile calling the tyre shop to tell them I'm not happy and that I want a different sized tyre? or just turn vdc off when driving in the hills

my fronts are 245/35's I guess I went with the 275/30's as that's what I had on the car before :S

Achillies are indonesian. The ones I got for my car are chinese - and I figured they have decent reviews etc., and being such a wide tyre I couldn't go wrong. I think I have just realised how sensitive and annoying the vdc really is - I'll have to do a bit more driving and if it's kicking in too much I'll have to drive the car with it turned off. edit: and yeah I got the price a little discounted (were originally 240), and before I bought them I called a few other stores and they told me that for cheapos they aren't bad.

they are 19" tyres. 275/30's The brand is mayrun mr500.

My old tyres were achilies ATR sport! wanted to try something different as they were VERY noisy tyre. I ended up buying a chinese brand called mayrun, they are actually a little quieter, and are fine for normal driving but they seem to annoy the vdc when cornering briskly. Read a bit online and it seemed as if they were decent cheapo tyres. I'll probably go back to the achilies tyres next time I buy tyres.. I'll just have to get used to either driving through the hills slowly, or muster the courage to do it with the vdc turned off edit: the reviews I read said that the tyres are grippy in wet conditions and quiet :S

I paid $220 for each of my tyres (down from $240). I read somewhere that differences in the rear and front tyres can also cause the vdc lights to go.. Could this be a likelihood since my old tyres were pretty bold? I actually wish I bought my tyres online (although got told i get no waranties or anything) as it meant I could have bought better ones. Ohh well, I know now for next time.. But the vdc seems waaay too sensitive now compared to when my old tyres were on.. Do you guys think it would be possible to talk to the tyre shop in regards to me returning these tyres and getting more expensive ones put on? (i could say that the tyres they recommended me are rubbish etc)

I'll buy them if the above sale falls through. I'm in Adelaide.

I've got full comp. I bought my car for <20k, and unfortunately I was financially not capable of buying expensive tyres for my car. I wasn't even planing on buying new tyres, the old ones I had went flat. 275/30's aren't cheap otherwise I would have bought decent tyres. edit: I love driving through the hills, but not at speeds greater than the speed limit. I just didn't think the vdc would kick in with me doing a corner at 60km/hr. edit 2: I've never spent a cent on bodykits, paintjobs or any mods whatsoever. Only things I've spent money on since buying my car have been power window motors (power windows were not working hence was able to get a good deal), brake pads and services.

I got new tyres put on my rear wheels last week (went with real cheap ones) and now whenever i go around a corner with a little speed the vdc slip light comes on and traction control kicks in! is this probably due to the fact that i have cheap rear tyres now? my previous ones were achillies atr lol so those were cheap also but i never had this issue with them. Do i need to be turning my vdc off from now when doing brisk driving? it's annoying coz i love driving through the hills and don't want the vdc to ruin that. Another question, when i accelerate in a high gear but low rpm i hear some rattles from under the car (has nothing to do with speed), they aren't very loud - but i can hear something rattling when the engine is in low rpm and i accelerate - it's only brief and once i have speed or rpms the sound goes away. Anyone else had this issue? I'm thinking it's a loose heat shield or exhaust component. Thanks