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Hey guys Have a used gear knob from a series 1 v35/350z. It's in fairly decent condition - a little pain is worn from the top and on the base. preferably pick up in Adelaide I'm chasing $60

will you split the brake pads? I only need rears ohh and will you ship to Adelaide?

Ok so an update I've decided to go with a motordyne basic plenum spacer, a z-tube and perhaps even a rev-up airbox. Now here's a question - the z-tube is basically a tube that costs around 150 shipped. Could I get away with buying a cheapo intake kit from ebay (which comes with required aluminium piping) and have it work just as well as the z-tube? I'm thinking of going this route as theres a considerable cost saving.

Thanks for the replies. Yeah I'm thinking of starting off with the 5/16 basic plenum spacer and a z tube. I'm actually not spending any money on these myself - just got asked what I'd like for my birthday and as there's nothing else I really want atm I'm happy to get these items. tbh I'm kinda over spending heaps on my engine and car (have had 2 wrx's and an s15), and have been more happy with the last 2 NA cars I've had (s2000, v35) than my first few turbo cars which had a lot more power - so it's not all about power for me, but I guess I'm kinda curious and keen on extracting a little more power from the engine (not too fussed on massive power gains). thanks

Thanks for the response guys, I'm basically getting these items for my birthday, but still want to make sure they will be worth it. Would you guys say that high flow cats provide more power than z-tube/filter and plenum spacer? Could you guys tell me which of the ones listed below are actual high flow cats that would fit the v35 http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/itemdetails/12658 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-350Z-VQ35DE-STAINLESS-STEEL-RACE-CATS-TEST-PIPES-/200437210693?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eaafd1e45#ht_1237wt_906 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-5-High-Flow-100cpsi-Metal-Cat-350Z-SILVIA-SUPRA-/200500702274?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eaec5ec42#ht_1565wt_1111 Nightcrawler 149 to 174 rwkw is a pretty big jump untuned! my friends legnum which has had heaps of work done to it is around 170awkw and it feels proper fast lol so if I could get around 170rwkw with bolt ons on the v35 I'll be really happy! (obviously that's further down the track)

Hey guys Am planning on doing some basic engine mods on my 350gt! I've done a bit of research and it seems like a plenum spacer and z tube would be a good starting place for me. Now for the questions I'm looking at buying a motordyine 5/16" plenum spacer, however there are 3 different types - Basic Thermal Copper iso Which one should I buy? and if I get it from ebay will I be receiving everything I will need for the install? or are there other parts I need to get? Also with the z-tube is it more effective with a pod style filter like a jwt pop-charger/z-tube combo? or will a panel filter be fine? I believe I have an aftermarket panel filter (blue in colour) however am not sure as to what brand, and I'm not too keen on oiling it up as I've heard the oil-up ones can reduce the life of some component (forgot the name). Do you guys think these mods will make a noticeable difference or am I just wasting my time? I've seen some people claim that a plenum spacer with z-tube/aftermarket filter will give you 5-10 extra kw at the wheels, but it seems a bit too good to be true!? Thanks

Took it to a mechanic today - he said it was definately the pads as you can see marks on the actual rotors now which means the pads are really worn. Getting new pads put in tomorrow along with brake fluid change and rotor machining.. Just one question - if the rotor thickness is deemed to be too low to be able to get them machined - would it be ok to run the pads on the rotors as they are now and then when I get new rotors change them over? Or is it critical that rotors are not changed without changing pads?

indiscriminant turning certainly does make the sound come and go (which may mean it's the front wheels?) - but as the sound goes away when I apply brakes it's led me to suspect brake pad/discs. My rear discs also look really bad - big black streak lines and the surface isn't really smooth. Edit: and the noise isn't a clicking sound - it's a rubbing/scraping sound. And are the brake discs the same diameter as 350z discs? I have the brembo brakes so I know to get 350z track pads. (Reason I'm asking is because most of the stuff for sale on ebay aus is for 350z's in)

Cheers mate - do you think it's better to get new discs or is it fine to get them machined?

don't think it's the lca bush. The sound is not a clunk, it's a scraping sound, it sounds pretty much exactly like putting your hands together and rubbing them (but imagine a more metallic sound) - and it gets faster with speed. Like Isaid it's intermittent, sometimes it's worse - but usually when I brake the sound goes away.

Just an updated on this, the scraping sound is very intermittent - went for a drive yesterday through the hills and the sound was on/off - and when I braked it stopped making a sound. My rear disc looks very scratched up, could this be the issue? And the actual shiny face of the disc has gone in a little lower than the edge (rusty rim) of the disc. Jacked up both the front and rear wheels and could not feel any wobbling, or movement. edit: what are your recommendations for brake pads/rotors? Don't have too much to spend, but would you guys say getting from ebay would be better/cheaper? And i'm guessing the brake pads/rotors would be the same as 350z track pads/rotors?

Well i drove this morning and it's not really noticeable - i need to have the window down and be driving next to a wall with no noise coming from anything else. Once I pick up speed the sound is gone. I checked my pads and they seem to be ok - will check the rotors to see if they have those lines, I would say the sound is kinda like something metallic brushing against something else. I actually had the exact same noise years ago when i had wide wheels on a car - the insides would hit something, and it may be that it's my wheels rubbing against something on the inside? they are wider than stock (8.5/9.5") so I'll check that out later. I don't feel any shuddering on my steering wheel or brake pedal when coming to a quick stop. If it is a wheel bearing I should be able to detect some play in the wheel once the car is jacked up right?

1st car - Audi 80 2nd car - Toyota hiace van 3rd car - proton satria 4th car - Suzuki swift gti 5th car - Toyota celica 6th car - Honda hrv 7th car - 98 wrx 8th car - 02 wrx 9th car - Nissan 200sx spec r gt 10th car - Honda s2000 Current car - Manual v35 I'm 25 and been through a few cars lol.. My fav cars - swift gti, s15, v35...

and sometimes the brakes squeak when I'm driving slow and coming to a stop - new brake pads needed? edit: My handbrake is also not too strong - i have to pull it right up with force to stop the car from moving on a slope. And on a few occasions in the morning when cold and I've released my handbrake to reverse i hear a thump... Could this have something to do with it? So far I'm thinking - warped rotors? worn brake pads? handbrake issue?

hi guys just wanting to know if anyone has ever had this issue before - when I'm driving at low speed (10-20ish) i hear some sounds which seem to be coming from around the wheel area of my car. it's hard to describe the sounds - kinda like tchu tchu tchu tchu as the wheel rotates. Once i pick up speed don't really hear it (probs due to increase road/wind noise). It's most apparent when I'm driving next to a wall with the windows down. Could it be the brake pads? or the actual rotors?It's a metallic type sound which I've noticed last few days as I've been driving with the windows down.

There's a mightycarmods video on YouTube which shows you how to do it. I've personally done this about 6-7 times. Spray painting them can work really well (especially considering you won't be spending much) if you take the effort to properly prepare your wheels prior to spraying. Get yourself sandpaper and work your way up the grits and finish with a 1500 grit sand (don't go too smooth otherwise paint won't stick properly). Obviously if your wheels have gutter rash etc., you may need to do some filling. After the prep work is done remove all the crap with a good wax and grease remover and mask up the valves. I use cards and wedge them between the wheel and tyre so as to not get any overspray on the tyres (much easier than masking) and then you wanna spray a few coats of primer, when dry a few coats of your actual color spray and finish off with multiple coats of clear (at least 4). After the paint is completely dry wet sand lightly using 2000 grit sandpaper. The type of paint you use is also very important - I generally find that any high temp enamel spray works well (engine enamel, caliper paint or actual wheel paint). Tip: don't spray too close, or on one spot for too long as you'll get runs which are ok if it's on your primer (as you can sand away) but will stuff up the look of your wheels if on your color or clear spray.

no I mean do I need to open my headlight unit (as in baking them open) to install wires inside the headlight? from pics I've seen it looks like the bulb socket wires run inside the headlight unit?

Do i actually need to open my headlight units to put in any wires?

are you sure they are different? All the ones I've found on ebay say d2r d2s and even d2c!! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-350Z-Murano-Subaru-WRX-STI-D2S-D2R-Factory-Xenon-HID-Replacement-Ballast-/170720897409?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bfc22981 Even that says d2r d2s ^ I'm so confuse

Yup looks like the one in the pic. So all I need is the wiring and globes? Would these fit? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-pcs-New-HID-Ballast-Harness-Bulb-Socket-Wires-Cable-D2S-D2R-D2C-/170741701955?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c0ff9d43 Thanks

Hey guys just a few quick questions - I have removed my headlights and I have halogens, but there are little grey units with yellowish stickers bolted onto the bottom of the headlights with wires coming out of them (cut wires), is this the factory hid unit? If so how would I go about setting it up? Is it difficult? Are there any diy's?

Get into a field you're passionate about - work hard to progress yourself to higher levels and anything is possible. I don't have a gtr but I'll tell you about how I'm going about working towards my dream car. Finished uni, got lucky and managed to land myself a job as a medical scientist 2 years ago working for the government. Pay is average at the moment but I've worked hard to get into a very specific field I know can earn me big bucks in a few years time. The car I've always wanted is a porshe 911 and although currently I'm saving for a wedding I do plan on saving for a few years after to buy my dream car which I plan on keeping for a long time - and it's this motivation I have that's helping me acheive higher goals. PS I'm in my mid 20's - in a management position and have already managed to own cars I always wanted growing up (wrx's, s15's, s2000, v35) and now obviously its the 911 Probs could have got my dream car a lot earlier if I went the engineer route, but can't stand math! ;P Good luck mate - always remember not matter what you do, work hard and anything is possible!

thinking of getting these seat covers - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skyline-V35-350GT-Genuine-Leather-Seat-cover-front-/280922948174?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416850024e#ht_585wt_905 Anyone have any experience? are they different if for the sedan model?

respray them

bump?