MonstaS4

Is the external diameter of the oil restrictors the same across all RB series engines? The Tomei site states the 1.5mm restrictors are for the RB26. Will these also fit an RB30?

I was under the impression the fuel pressure reg. controls fuel pressure. By increasing/decreasing the voltage across the pump, the FLOW capacity of the pump would increased/decreased. I'm not sure why it would be increased at idle because the coolant temp sensor combined with the ecu would increase the injector pulse width. Obviously the pump will speed up under load to increase the fuel available to the injectors

Luke, I find it hard to believe Nissan would change wiring looms/ignitors on the same model & series of engine. I bought my R33 RB25DE engine for the conversion complete with the loom, so i'm sure that what i've mentioned earlier is correct. i.e the arrow DEFINATELY points in the direction of the coils. Maybe you've been given the coil loom off an RB20 or something? This pic may help.......you can see that the wires at the bottom plug go in under the valley cover. The cables running over the ignitor are for the coil feed and tacho test point.

1. The pins to the INPUT are 1-2-3-E-5-6-7. Note that this is only pin numbering. They are actually in firing order. i.e. Pin 1 = Cyl 1, P2 = C5, P3 = C3, P4= Earth, P5 = C6, P6 = C2, P7 = C4. 2. Nope. The arrow definately points to the coils. 3. Nope. 7 pins into the ignitor - 6 signals from the ECU and an earth. 6 outputs - to the 6 coils. The power to the coils is via the white wire from the ignition relay. This pic should help........

I had the same aim as you.....250 rwkw using a "cost effective" package. 1. Get the loom associated with whichever head you are using. i.e. R32 or 33. 2. Valve springs in n/a and turbo r33's are identical. r32 n/a are softer aperantly. 3. Definately stick with a twin cam pump. I used a S1 r33 pump which did not need a collar. 4. Cams not sure on. I'm using standard r33 with vct. So far it has made 220rwkw @ 11psi. 5. I'm using a GT3040 with a 0.82 rear (it's in a VL). I have 11 psi at ~2700rpm. With the 3.45 diff, 1st gear is tyre smoke, but i generally don't have traction issues in 2nd with 235/45 17's. I'm sure with a skyline diff 2nd would be tyre smoke aswell! Bottom end and head are both stock. Once the boost is upped to 14 - 15psi it should make 250rwkw. Hope some of this helped!

I dont think the RB25 gasket will give you anymore sealing area. For the sake of a few more $$$, get it done right the first time i say.

If the R34 head is identical to the R33, i think you'll find you have to add (weld & re-surface) material around the front water gallery. It only has 2mm or so to seal with the block.

After spitting out a heap of oil on the dyno at the weekend, i cleaned the catch can out to see how quickly it will fill up. After several repeated 6500 - 7000rpm, 8psi runs, not one drop of oil is in the can now. I remember someone posting the oil level can have an effect on blow-by. The level was spot on the high mark before the dyno, and now it is 2-3mm below. So maybe it's just the crank throwing up oil at high rpm. Now that the oil level is slightly lower, the crank misses the oil and none is thrown up. Feasible?

The 1 deg signal gives a pulse every 1 CAMSHAFT degree, not crankshaft. The 120 deg pulse is not identical each time. (Once again it's camshaft degrees - 120 deg x 6 cyls = 720degs = 4 stroke engine cycle) There are 6 unique sized windows 120 degs apart and the ecu counts how many 1 deg pulses are inside each unique "window". The smallest window is 4 pulses wide and they increase by 4's until 24. i.e. 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24. So by using these unique windows, the ecu knows exactly where it is in the cycle.

Yep i'm using the VCT head. I guess the grub screw is the way to go. Is any of this possible without a full dissasembly. If i need to do drilling and tapping, i can't see any way of stopping swarf entering oil galleries.

Thanks exXU1, i'm having some blowby issues and as soon as i rule out rings as the problem, i think the head will come off and smaller restrictors put in. How do i go about blocking one off?

Sorry to hijack, but are these restrictors readily available or are they only availible at Nissan dealers. Are they easy to get out?

We ran out of time to hook up a pressure guage on the day. What i plan to do today is run some compressed air at 12psi into the reg and measure how much fuel is returned. At the same time i'll check the pressure. This should tell me... a) how much fuel the engine can use without the pressure dropping off and B) if the reg is actually working correctly. Dump_pipe, I bought a R33 DE head for the conversion and changed the reg for an R33 DET unit. Part numbers are definately different. I guess the DE reg dosn't have the rising rate ability that the DET reg has.

Had my RB30DET on the dyno today hoping to up the boost to 15psi. Problem is it started to lean out at 12psi and feeding in more duty cycle to the injectors didn't seem to have any effect on the A/F ratio. I have a Bosch 910 pump which should be good for 450-500bhp, 550cc injectors and am using the standard turbo pressure regulator. My tuner thinks the reg is not holding the pressure high enough on boost. Is this a fair call? He has suggested a Malpassi, but i remember hearing that the pressure can fluctuate a little with these. Anyone have FIRST HAND experience with this?

If it's a streeter, definately a PowerFC or anything with closed loop. If you want it to also drive as smooth as the factory ECU, it must have idle control, cold start function, various fuel/ ignition compensations, air/water temp correction, decel fuel cut, etc. I went for a Haltech E11v2 as it had more versatility with respect to aux. inputs/outputs, appeared more user freindly and my tuner was more comfortable with it rather than a powerFC.

Buy yourself a multimeter. Dic.k Smith have a cheap 1 for less than $20. As i said earlier, check current draw with everything off. If it's OK it just about has to be the battery. Also check/clean the earth cable to the motor.

If you've got a multimeter, put it in series with one of the battery leads and measure the current draw with key OFF. Should be close to 0. Anything more than 1/2 to 1.0 Amp will drain the battery pretty quick. Is the battery voltage around 14v with the engine running? If it jump starts OK, i'd doubt it will be the starter. Sound more like a lack of voltage problem.

I think you'll find RB30-power is a long term member of that very forum and he knows his stuff...... There is only one oil drain fitting on both S1 and S2 blocks. The differences are in the turbo oil feed and coolant feed fittings, or lack thereof. You could braze a hose-tail fitting into the sump rather than tee'ing it into the turbo return line i guess.

The PCV valve is built into the fitting on the left. It is just a 1-way valve. A hose runs from this to the standard plenum. The theory is when the engine is in vacuum the valve opens and crankcase vapours get sucked back into the plenum. Not good from a performance perspective. When on boost, the valve shuts and if you have excessive blow-by the only way the vapours can escape is via the breathers on top of the cam covers. I would definately be plumbing the external oil drain in. I'm sure Nissan have it there for a reason. That was my thinking anyway. Put a catch can on and if heaps of oil still comes out, then it has to be a ring/clearance issue.

I had a Link in a blown celica 10 years ago and it was shit. Their customer support was so pathetic that an australian distributer i bought it through ceased his dealings with them and refused to sell them. I'm sure alot has improved in 10 years, but it's a case of "once bitten - twice shy" for me....

I have an E11v2 in my RB30DET and can't rave enough about it. It'll do everything a PowerFC can apart from knock sensing but it also has a heap of extra analogue/digital inputs and outputs, plus data logging, PID loop idle control, etc. I'd guess the main reason they are not used in skylines is because they are not plug-in and a PFC is tried and proven.

Just a thought..........If the smoke dosn't appear until you change from 2nd to 3rd is it possible the vacuum created through the PCV when you shut the throttle is sucking excess oil (due to no external drain) into the space above the baffles. But instead of actually sucking it through the PCV, it is blown out the breathers?

R33's look identical.........

I'm not sure about R32's but R33 heads have an external oil drain which some of us have teed into the turbo oil drain. I can't see this as being a problem though.

A restrictor is not needed with GT turbos as they have the restrictor built in. Mine also has the head drain and turbo drain tee'd togther. I do get blowby at high RPM as the cooler piping has an oil film in it. Sounds like yours is sucking oil through the PCV pipe on vacuum.