MonstaS4

A fuse is to protect the wiring, so you need to size it to whatever cable you decide to use. If you buy it from an auto 'lecky, they'll tell you what size fuse to use.

Pin 38 on the ecu or the middle pin at the sensor is the TPS signal. Reference this to ground. Yep, just rotate it until it reads correct.

Thanks guys, i'll see what i can rig up over the weekend.

Great idea, but i've got a cheapo dial guage and nothing appears to unscrew. Any other suggestions?

I'm after some advice on dialling in cams on an RB30DET. Due to the positioning of the belt tensioners, the cams do not line up with the marks on the back plate when at TDC. My guess is they are 5 or so degrees out. It's an R33 head so the VCT gear is adjustable from behind, and i have an adjustable exh. gear. I've made up a degree wheel which is bolted on the crank, but there dosn't seem to be alot of room on the lifter to place the dial guage on. Is there a trick to this? There's no way a dial guage can sit perpendicular to the lifter as the cam gets in the way. Help!

Series 6 rx7 or 20B cosmo injectors are 550cc side feed and high impedence. These can be made to fit in the R33 rail with very little effort.

FYI - The R33 runners miss the VL brake booster by 10mm - just enough. I havn't had any issues and don't expect to. I'm sure nissan has spent millions of R & D money designing these things so that it is not possible to run 1 or 2 cylinders so lean that an engine could die, regardless of whether it's a turbo or N/A plenum.

How the hell did you snap it? They're only meant to be torqued to 10Nm or so.

You should see a noticable difference in idle. Mine was a little unsteady, just hunting a bit at idle. On the road you should definately notice a loss of power up to 4000rpm with the vct disconnected. My oil feed is 1/8" bundy tube i think, with a 1.2mm restrictor in it. Seems to work fine.

RB30-POWER, the current switchover points are on at 1500 and off at 4250. 'Seat-of-pants' testing suggested a slightly lower switch off point than 4500, but i haven't backed this up with dyno testing. Also, the position of my cam belt tensioners didn't allow the cams to line up correctly, so from memory they are both advanced about 5-7 crank degrees. Me thinks some adjustable gears will be going in shortly. Sorry bout the hijack Robert_NZ....

Most tacho's use frequency to drive them. i.e a fixed duty cycle of 50% and the frequency increases proportionaly with revs. I don't know about the Motec, but my Haltech has a tacho aux. output. You set the "pull-up" value and duty cycle to 50% in the software, and your done. Maybe double check the Motec for this type of output?

All R33's have VCT. The extra work in making VCT work is minimal. Run an external feed from the oil pressure sensor to the VCT oil gallery. Block off the original feed in the head then have a welder add some material to the head to match up the coolant galleries and surface it. It's not rocket science! Any machine shop can manage this.

I also had a heap of trouble finding the correct size. I foolishly didn't write it down when i found the right fitting. I think it is 12x1.0mm but i'm not 100% on that. It must also have an inverted flare. Best bet is to get one from here.... http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category2_1.htm Water fittings are 14x1.5mm as you mentioned.

I'm running a 0.82 GT30 and it is by no means a light switch, so a GT35 0.82 would be far from it. Although, I am only running 8psi atm. The Haltech has boost correction dependant on the gear selected, so i plan to use this to soften the power delivery in 1st gear once boost is wound up.

I'm pretty sure the TPS has to be within a set tolerence of 0 (e.g. 0.5%) before the AAC valve will attempt to control idle. So, yeah it does sound like it isn't set corectly. It idles fine when cold because the air regulator/cold air bypass valve is fully open.

Isn't there adjustability on the standard VCT mechanism? I think it is accessed from behind, you probably need to remove it from the cam first. I've been meaning to try this but havn't had time.

It would have to go closed. That way, air is no longer bypassed around the throttle plate and the idle speed drops.

Spot on. That's what i was trying to say earlier. The solenoid switches on at 1500 or thereabouts (advancing the inlet cam 20deg), and off at 4500. I've tried switching VCT on at idle via the Haltech and it is faily lumpy. There is a distict change in idle quality, so it does appear there is enough oil pressure to rotate the cam mechanism.

Guess i'll agree to disagree! Here are a few links.... http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/cylhead/cams.htm - read "under construction" section at the bottom of the page. http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showth...?t=15976&page=1 - not an RB25 but operation is identical, just different switch points.

Wrong!!! The ECU uses the CAS signal (RPM) and load to determine when the NVCS solenoid switches ON. If the engine is at light load, irrespective of RPM, the solenoid stays OFF, improving economy and emissions. If the engine is under load (dunno what the trigger point is) AND it is between 1050 and 4500 rpm, solenoid switches ON, advances the inlet cam 20 degs, giving more overlap and stronger midrange performance. That is a solenoid, not a reciever, circled above. It controls the flow of oil to the cam advance mechanism.

Sydneykid, i'm not calling you a liar, but i'm pretty sure the R33 NVCS is OFF from 0 - 1050rpm, then ON until 4500rpm, then OFF again until redline. This is how it is setup on my RB30DET and I've noticed a distinct lack in power up to 4500rpm when the NVCS plug falls off the solenoid! (due to lost metal retaining clip).

R33 RB25 has NVCS (VCT)- the inlet camshaft is advanced 20 degrees with respect to the cam gear when the solenoid is on. R34 RB25 Neo - not sure. It has VVL (variable valve lift) doesn't it?

The GT3040R is available with the 6 bladed GT wheel from MTQ engine systems. Part No. is SB8006 for a 1.06 AR exhaust or SB8006A for a 0.82 AR exhaust. These are straight out of the Garrett "Ballistic Concepts" catalog.

Yep, with 20 degrees extra overlap when it's switched on, i guess you could say it's a little lumpy. Seat of pants/Stopwatch testing indicates somewhere around 4200rpm seems optimum. There dosn't appear to be big benifit to be had, but i'm still only running 5psi. 14+psi may tell a different story?

Yes it is approx. 1.2mm. I don't know if bigger will cause problems though. Mine was drilled at 1.2mm and it works fine. Slightly off track, but i had a play with switch-on point in the Haltech and turned VCT on at idle. You can notice a big difference in idle quality. It didn't want to idle smooth at all.