MonstaS4

Go to a hobby shop that sells model cars, boats, etc. You will get a 1.2mm drill bit.

The light blue wire is 12v ignition, and the light green/red wire is switched to earth by the ECU. The Microtech should have an output to drive it. It switches on at 1050rpm and off at 4500rpm. I think it is also load dependant, but i'm not sure at which point.

It will rev up and down sharper like a bike engine. A lighter flywheel has less inertia. I'm not sure about the torque though. Torque is equal to the force applied times the radius through which it acts. So if you have less weight/force at the extreme of the radius, and the radius remains the same you would have less torque. Correct?

Haltech sell one for about $120

These Audi belts are 22mm wide, whereas the OEM nissan belt is 25mm. Would it be fair to assume it is 12% weaker than the factory nissan belt? I remember looking into this option, and i think they were either unavailible in OZ or very pricey.

I also done the above test, but i also done what SK suggested.....spin the cams with a piston at TDC......no interference. This is using standard RB30E pistons.

NZM.031, i'm not sure which turbosmart BOV you're talking about, but i'm sure they work in the way Tang0 has described. (My plumback does anyway). The port on the cap is connected to the intake manifold, so when on boost the combined pressure of the spring and boost pushing against the BOV piston is greater than boost only on the inlet side of the BOV, hence the valve stays shut.

I'm using a Haltech E11 on my RB30DET. It can use an AFM or a MAP sensor, the latter can be calibrated to suit any brand through the software. I'm running with the MAP and cold starts, idle control, light loads are all excellent. Not a plug-in like the wolf though.

Like someone said earlier, you need a 10k ohm pull-up resistor from 12v to the tach out wire on the ecu. I'm guessing the factory tach does this internally, whereas the autometer wouldn't. If you connect an oscilliscope to pin 7 i'm guessing you will see a square wave, but it won't be 0-12v, more like 0-300mV. This is similar to how the signals from the cas arrive at the ecu.

Ghostrider, As i've mentioned in another thead, my RB30DET in a VL has been up and running for a month. I'm using a GT3040 with a 0.82 rear. My aims were very similar to Adrians' in that i wanted a fast streetcar, not some animal that didn't awaken till 4000rpm. The engine is still being run in on 5psi, but so far it does not appear to have any lag at all, just progressive power, and spins very easily to 6000rpm. It starts spooling at 1800rpm and is on 5psi by 2200rpm

Steve, M&W engines here in Ballarat done my head mods. Pistons are the stock N/A RB30's. I sent them to www.jet-hot.com.au/ in Castlemaine to be coated. Cost around $20-$25 per piston from memory. This coating will increase the risk of detonation as the combustion temps are held in the chamber, but the piston will run a lot cooler for the same reason. Only time will tell how they last!!

No pics sorry......have a look at Joel's (cubes) pdf guide. He has 2 pics in there, 1 of the RB25DET bottom end and 1 of the RB30 bottom end. The difference between the 2 is easy to see. Pistons are stock N/A RB30, but the crowns have been ceramic coated. Off boost??? What's that???Haha. No sh1t, i cannot notice any lag at all. I'm using a GT3040 with a 0.86 rear. On the initial dyno tune (with 20kms up) it made 162rwkw at 5000rpm @ 5psi, so can't wait to wind it up to 13-14psi.

I'm in Ballarat. My RB30DET has been in my VL for only a month. I'm using a standard N/A bottom end with an R33 VCT head. When using this head you DO need to modify the water gallery around the VCT oil feed as it only seals with about 1 or 2mm of material. You also need to drill and tap a hole in the head for a grub screw to block the VCT oil feed gallery (coming from the block). You then use an external feed as SK has already mentioned.

The Nissan AAC valve is not a stepper motor. It is a solenoid valve which is fed a PWM signal (constant frequency - duty cycle varies from 0 - 100%) from the ECU. My guess is this valve alone dosn't flow enough air to keep the idle high enough when under extreme load. i.e engine still cold, a/c on, power steering pump under heavy load. If they made it flow higher, it probably wouldn't control accurately. I'm running a Haltech E11 ECU on my RB30DET. I still have the cold air bypass valve hoses connected (but no power to the valve). The a/c idle-up solenoid is disconnected and the haltech drives the AAC valve. Cold idle is set to 1200rpm and warm idle is set to 850rpm and it controls well, although the idle can drop to 700 if the a/c is on. Hope that helps.

Does anyone know the frequency that the AAC valve operates at on an R33? Or is there any mention of this in the workshop manual? Varying this value in the Haltech, without touching duty cycle, changes the idle speed so it's difficult to guess what it should be set at.

I think your mechanic is confused with the front drivers side water jacket which dosn't mate up with the 30 block correctly. I had the water jacket in the head built up then surfaced to give a 5mm or so seal with the block.

From his posts on http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/index.php he is using an R32 head..........

If it is a combined boost/vac guage, it won't read any vaccuum if you connect it before the throttle body.....not that that really matters anyway!

Nope. The thickness of this stuff is in the thousandths of a millimeter. As a side note, got my RB25/30 running last weekend It will get a basic tune next saturday so i can run it in.

I think we have a communication breakdown here..... To clarify, I have 20B cosmo injectors which i sourced from dysons and a rotary forum. These are high impedance. I machined up collars to fit these in the r33 rail as i mentioned above. Computer is Haltech E11.

I'm using these in an RB30DET with the R33 head. I machined up some aluminum collars to locate them centrally in the bowl. A small amount of material needs to be removed from the bottom filter cage and aluminium tip so they will fit into the bottom of the bowl. Plugs are different. Rather than "cut and shut", i bought new terminals and plugs and re-crimped them. They are high impedance (13 ohms i think).

Try Dyson rotary. I picked 3 up from him and 3 from a guy on the Ausrotary forum.

They look too large at the base to fit in the RB25 rail. Have you looked into 550cc 20B cosmo injectors?

Damm right!! Maybe i'm biased though.

Dosn't the Garrett GT3040 (SB8006/SB8006A) have a 64 trim?