MonstaS4

riceline - that's odd. Looking at these pics, the RB25de pump would not fit the 30 block. The gasket is RB30. B1 - It's only circulating coolant. Nissan would have spent $$$$ on R&D to ensure the rb25det unit was up to the task. I wouldn't think it's a critical issue compared to say an oil pump.

Pretty sure an ignitor pack is just 6 power transistors. The ecu switches them with a small current which in turn opens and closes the coil circuit. Don't think i'd like to risk testing them though without knowing what else is in the ignitor.

Oops......just double checked with a gasket laid over both R33 RB25de pump and Rb30e pump. All holes are there, it's just that one 6mm bolt hole at the top is about 5mm offset on the RB30. There is definately no difference in impellers though.

Set the meter to the lowest scale possible to get an accurate reading. If you touch the leads on the meter together, you may get a reading on the meter. e.g. 0.4 ohms. This is the resistance of the leads and must be subtracted from the reading you get when you check anything. i.e. 1.1 - 0.4 = 0.7 Anyway, as long as they're all reasonably close, they should be fine. If you're really unlucky, one coil might be going open circuit when under load. If you know any sparkies, they'll have an insulation resistance tester which can pump 500v or 1000v through the coil (as opposed to a multimeter's 2-3volts). This will find very small breaks in the coil which won't show up with a multimeter.

Dunno bout the RB25det, but the RB25de and RB30e pumps are IDENTICAL. There is no difference in impeller design at all. The RB30 pump is not missing a bolt.

Here is a pic of a 13B injector (left), 20B (centre), not sure of the injector on the right, but it looks similar to a standard RB25. The 13B is a standard pintle type injector, the 20B is the same but has an aluminium cone on the tip to atomise the spray better. So i don't believe the spray patterns are any different to other pintle injectors.

Try Dyson Rotary. I bought 3 off him, and another 3 off a guy on the Ausrotary forum. If you want no problems and are willing to part with $1k or so, get the Nismo's. If you don't mind a challenge, have access to a lathe, and want to save a lot of coin, go the 20B's. Just had mine cleaned and flowed, and they have an excellent spray pattern.

I'm pretty sure http://www.justenginemanagement.com/ would have them. You may have trouble contacting him though as i believe he is on holidays for a month.

I used 20B 550cc injectors and turned the collars up on a lathe. Cost me less than $500 all up.

http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz/tech/howtous...0Binjectors.htm They are D-speed collars, but i think they are the same. Good luck finding some at the wreckers.

So i guess paying $2k locally is not so bad after all......

So would you care to tell us what you would pay for a GT3040 imported, including any duties/taxes?

Why wouldn't you buy a Garrett locally? My REAL GT30 has a GT40 compressor wheel, so am i missing something here?

It's a good read, but the part numbers and specs don't match with what the garrett distributers in australia (MTQ) are selling. It appears the relevent catalog is the "Ballistic Concepts" catalog as found on Ray Hall and GCG's websites. I rang MTQ for a price on a GT30 and they didn't recognise the part number i gave them (out of the Garrett 7_17_13 catalog). They said they had 2 GT30's there, the SB8006 and SB8006A. The specs they gave me matched what is in the ballistic concepts catalog. My conclusion is that the 7_17_13 catalog is for the USA market only????

Would you also need an AFM with the PowerFC?

I have the SB8006A which is a GT30 with 0.82 Exh. Compressor specs 0.70 A/R 64 Trim GT40 wheel 2.41/3.22 wheel diameter 550Hp 65 lbs per min. flow Turbine specs 0.82 A/R 84 Trim wheel 2.16/2.36 wheel diameter Mounted on the factory manifold with an adapter for the 45mm progate. Should be VERY responsive! [Cue evil grin] Only need to make a desicion on ECU, then in it goes :whackit:

If it uses the same rail as the R33, Series 6 RX7 or 20B cosmo injectors will fit. You need to buy/make some collars to hold them in securely.

I know nothing about the Apexi, but a boost control solenoid will have a base frequency which it is designed to run at. i.e. Haltech valve runs at 33Hz. The boost control device (Apexi AVCR) will then vary the duty cycle from 0 to 100% to maintain whatever the preset boost value is. Sounds like the base frequency is not correct??

Price drop..........$140 posted. Only need another 4 and u have a cheap alternative to $1k+ Sards or Nismo injectors. :wassup:

I have 2 x 550cc side feed injectors from a S6 13B-REW which i no longer require. They have been modified at the bottom filter screen to fit into the R33 RB25 fuel rail. Asking $170 for the pair.

These numbers are grades or tolerances. Nissan has 5 grades for the RB30. I guess this is one reason for thier reliability.

One side of the solenoid will go to +12v, the other will go to pin 5 (red/white) on the Wolf. I think you also need a diode across the solenoid to prevent damage to the Wolf, so it would pay to check the install manual. The PWM frequency needs to be matched to the solenoid being used. I have a haltech solenoid which operates at 33Hz. You can change the solenoid opening amount every 500RPM. Not sure on the hose hook up. I've heard people say the bottom port is always connected to the inlet manifold and the solenoid is connected from the inlet manifold to the top port of the wastegate.

I'm doin the RB30DET conversion into a VL and also and face the same dillema. I see a couple of options. Use the RB25 engine loom with a Wolf plugin (They make one for the RB25) and interface maybe 5-10 wires with the VL body loom. e.g. dash water temp, oil pressure, starter solenoid, alternator, etc. Or, if the wolf dosn't have the features you want, still use the RB25 loom cos it has all the plugs already on it, and cut it near the computer and join a shitload of wires to suit whatever ECU you decide to use.

Check out http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/index.php

Holes line up, height is identical, but the width is out by about 3mm both sides. I've never seen an RB20 turbo, but my guess is it is a twin inlet. Not going for mega power due to standard RB30E internals. 400-450BHP at 15 PSI should be gettable. Turbo is straight out of the Ballistic Concepts catalogue. Part No. SB8006A. 0.82 A/R Exh, GT40 Comp, 0.70 A/R, 64 trim.