MonstaS4

Picked up my turbo on friday a GT30R. Where's the best (read:cheapest) place to get blank inlet flanges. I need a couple to make an adapter for the external gate. Also, when i put the GT30 gasket against my RB20 manifold, it appears the manifold opening is slightly larger so the gasket will not mate properly. Is the opening in the twin inlet turbo larger than the single opening? Even though they are both T3 flange.

It will fit. But you need to grind down the water gallery 'tags' on the block so it will not touch. It's all in Joel's guide.

With No.1 piston at TDC, the keyway in the crank will be at 12 o'clock. If you put the timing pulley on, it has a punch mark on it which will line up with the notch on the oil pump housing. Line up the cam pulleys with the marks on the rear cover, and put the belt on.

Doubt that you'll do any damage, but you may choke the top end.

Doubt it will be BOV, cos it's before the throttle butterfly. Maybe cold air bypass valve or coolant temp sender. Try some electrical cleaner on the plugs of these two.

The RB30 only has one oil return and it is for the turbo. You'll have to 'T' the oil return from the head into this.

About $50 - $80 s/hand for the 13B-REW's. S15's are $290 new from Nissan - I'd guess they'd drop straight in. S/hand ???? Sard 550cc with collars - less than $200 each

The part no. for side feed 13B/20B 550cc is 195500-2460. These are purple top and are found in the 13B-REW (series 6 RX7), not the 13BT (series 5 and below which are top feed). They are also in the 20B Cosmo. I'm told all 6 are 550cc, but only 3 are side feed. I'm trying to confirm that the 20B's have the same part no. as the 13B-REW's.

Just to confuse the issue further, i have both RB30E and RB25DE pumps sitting in front of me, and they are identical.

The two black fittings in your pics go to the heater core. The pic below is the setup used on a N/A VL. As my crusty photoshop skills show, turbo VL's have a small pipe (circled) which goes round the back of the head and into the turbo. The other water fitting is as riceline and low747 says the upper right fitting on the exhaust side.

Roy, these overboost valves are too harsh to be controlling boost. VL turbos also had them standard. When i wound up the boost after fitting a cooler, when boost reached 12psi it felt like the spark or fuel had been cut. Air is bled off so quick that if you kept the boot into it, the car would surge then slow very violently.

Series 6 13B's and cosmo 20b's have 550cc side feeds which can be made to fit in the standard RB25 rail by either using a set of Sard or D-Speed collars or machining some up yourself ($250-$300 v's $10 + a few hours of your time!) Plugs are different, but i think laser/mazda 323 plugs are the same. I'm yet to prove this though as i'm in the process of making the collars atm. Try this.... http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz/tech/howtous...0Binjectors.htm

And when VCT solenoid is on, the inlet timing is advanced by 20 Degrees

Like browny said, different bore size + smaller valves (i think) = not worth the effort.

Done some more research on suitable timing belts. Dayco have a belt the same profile as a 94407 (152 teeth) but with 150 teeth, Part no. 94777. This could be used with 2 adjustable tensioners in the factory locations as per the Gates belt setup in Joel's guide. Only issue is this belt is 23mm wide rather than the factory 25mm. Dayco tell me this is not a problem, but they also follow up the e-mail with a disclaimer.... "however please be mindful as we don't list this belt for this application you have requested there will be now warranty to cover consequential damage should something go wrong - we'll cover the belt, but that's it." Probably standard arse covering fare, but it makes me uncertain if it will do the job. I realise the 94407 will do the job, but why drill & tap another hole and risk ****ing it up if i don't have to. I'm interested to hear others thoughts on the 23mm belt. Will it hold up to 500 BHP??

Joel, i'm still a little concerned about oil pressure. How did you go with the above setup? or did you go with something else? I see no point in trying to find a turbo pump when i have a perfectly usable RB25DE pump. I rang nissan again today and was told you cannot buy an RB25DET valve kit, yet you can buy an RB20DET or RB30ET valve kit. :cuss: :cuss: So i see two options: Use either of the valve kits (but which one???) or be happy with the standard RB25DE pump. Any suggestions - apart from shelling out for a new pump?

I have a perfectly good RB25DE pump but would like slightly more pressure. For $5, this appears the best route to take. Sydneykid, do you know what spring rate i should be looking for? I'm in regional victoria and have no local spring suppliers to drop into to compare the RB25DE spring with.

Unsure about R32's, but an R33 uses side feeds. Therefore 13B-REW (series 6 primaries and 20B's) will fit - apperantly. I've tracked down a couple for my RB30DET, just haven't taken delivery yet so i can't confirm. Here is a page with relevent info. Pretty sure S15 SR20's use the same style injector as an R33. http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz/tech/howtous...0Binjectors.htm

I would think if a coil pack works ok at light load, it should also work ok at full load. Not 100% on this, but you could prolly use an Insulation Resistance tester (megga) on the 1000v scale to test it (know any sparkies?). The primary winding should have continuity from one end to the other and should not be shorted to earth. I think the secondary should also have continuity from the plug top to earth on the coil pack. Please correct me if i'm way off the mark!

Are there any differences in operation between a N/A fuel pressure reg and a turbo reg? If fuel pressure increases with a decrease in manifold vacuum, does fuel pressure continue to rise when making boost? What i'm trying to ask is, can i use the N/A regulator which came with the R33 RB25DE head & manifold, or will it be damaged if boost is applied to it?

Mine reads 10.2 ohms. I've also tested it seperately with a 12v supply and it pulls the solenoid in O.K., so i'm pretty confident it should read around this figure. I'd suggest taking it out of the head, and doing the above - just don't short the wires together! maybe use some small spade terminals with tape around them crimped to some wire. You will hear a click if it works OK.

Sydneykid, i'm confused..... According to the Garrett catalgoue, a GT25R is only good for 250 bhp. It has a max air flow of about 26 lbs/min at 1 bar. I thought an RB30DET would peak at about 35-40 lbs/min, but i'm tippin' i've overlooked something

Where? I didn't think external gates were 'road legal'. Or is that just if it has a screamer pipe? Anyone??

HKS 3037 ProS has internal wastegate..... looks stock. GT30, GT35 need external wastegate. Very naughty! approx $2600 + $700 for w/g + $??? to modify manifold and w/g dump pipe. Prices would come out close, depending on the duties imposed on the 3037.

Series VI 13B primary injectors are side feed 550cc. Bit worried about the spray pattern looking at the tips. I'm guessing they'll also be hard to find.