Hey Fellas!
Just thought I'd give you guys/all an update on the diff situation!
A couple of weeks ago "over a weekend" I managed to remove the diff out of the R31. I'd built a pinion flange locking tool to remove the pinion nut, but it'd actually bent-up. 10mm flat bar wasn't quite strong enough to get this nut off strangely enough! So ended up making the same thing out of 1/2" bar steel. That done the job! . I used a 6ft long breaker bar that I made up and this just managed to do the job. I don't reckon that I would have done this job in-situe/under the car, that's for sure, but anyways.....
I then opened the diff housing up and spun round the pinion flange to see what ratio was actually in there (also noting that the pinion was just a little hard to turn "later found to be a rusted/siezed bearing"). Found there was a 4.11:1 gear set in it "not exactly what the tag says!/thought it was a 3.889" and was a little worried that someone may have put in a pintara setup "axles & all", but thankfully that wasn't the case. It still had the 28 spline axles in there, thank god! anyways, I undone the bearing cap bolts on either side of the hemisphere and the centre just dropped straight out so there wasn't any need for a diff spreader tool to be made up. Next thing I done was undone the 4 nuts to the axles on each side and lightly tapped on the axles with a small hammer to get them to drop out from each side. The next problem was to attempt to remove the pinion shaft and flange "was practically a pointless excercise". I had used my long bar tool and spent a couple of hours tapping from behind it with a block buster. Was a no go. I then used a ram rod on the pinion shaft and tapped the guts out of it with the block buster and that was a no go too! ;(. Mind you, I was also spraying WD40 down the guts of it "spline area" to try and free it all up, but was pointless. Got out there the next day and done the same thing, and still wasn't any good. Had a look at my shop press "6 ton job" and that wasn't quite big enough to allow the housing to fit in the frame, so no good there.... A real good point to note to anyone playing with these on a regular basis is to grease up the pinion spline well just on the off chance that you need to pull the thing apart again and also might help prevent the pinion bearings from rusting up. Would certainly make the job a lot easier.
Next thing was to check to see whether the axles fit my new LSD centre. so I stuck the axles on their edge and slid the centre over the axle spline, and felt a sigh of relief.... Thank god it was a fit!
Anyways...,
Last monday I took the new hemisphere and gears "all with brand new bearings fitted" with the diff housing into a diff specialist in the city. I'd previously asked around on the commodore/nissan forums here in tas who was good to get the work done and they told me Phil McGrath from Clutch & Transmission in Moonah was the way to go. I gave him a call yesterday and he'd just finished the job. He found that the pinion bearing was seized which wouldn't have helped with the noise once the car was getting warmed up driving down the road, and that for some reason the axle tubes were full of thick rust/scale. I'm gonna pick up the rebuilt diff later on during the week and hopefully get it in over the weekend so I'll let you know how it all goes. All up it's worked out to be a real expensive exercise as it was $50 for the rear wheel bearings, $130 for all diff bearings/flange seal/diff gasket/crush washer, $100 for 3.23 gearing, $160 for LSD center and $590 for diff to be professionally rebuilt which includes the axle bearings to be fitted. Add $20 for a couple of litres of LSD diff oil and the total comes to $1050. Seems like a lot of coin to get the diff sorted, but I'm sure it'll be worth it in the long run, and just having that peace of mind that it's not going to blow out in the back end anytime soon is probably a good thing. I've just finished studying metals at tafe and have been offered an apprenticeship in the metals trade. I've gotta do a lot of highway miles to get to where I've gotta go so I know atleast, that the diff will hold up. Next prob will be addressing the motor. She's done around 800,000K's and still going. Idles just slightly off-beat and is a little weak on performance. I have a VL rb30 that's done 80'000K's from major overhaul and also a rebuilt VLT auto trans that I'm thinking of fitting which might get me out of trouble for quite sometime but am wondering whether the whole thing will sit in top gear at 100K's an hour? Thinking that it should do but only time will tell..
Once I've got the diff fitted, I'll let you all know how it's going.
Thanks for taking the time to read and will update shortly!
Cheers!