bren

Lol I dont mind the 2 way, its been on the car for a while and its quite easy to push the car into a bit of oversteer when it washes wide. Its just a little hard to control hence the Hicas removal I like the 2 ways ability to lock on corner entry when I want to have a play. Ive run a 1.5 way and 2 way on previous cars but the Kaaz on the Skyline is the most agressive Ive experienced so far. The cars got adjustable castor and rear camber arms, Im just sourcing some front camber arms then Ill get the whole lot set up to suit fast road/track. Any suggestions as to what to set the rear camber and toe and front camber to? How does the Hicas removal stiffen up the front steering?

Shoot 4? Whats that then? govich, Its neither good nor bad, its just interesting to see if it will hold together with the original pistons and rods.

As I said in the first line of my post, I did a search but couldnt find an explantion of exactly what the system did and when. I know it is a form of rear wheel steering and I have been told on numerous occasions that remvoing it will improve the handling and predictablity of the car. Thats why Ive removed it. Just because I dont fully understand how the system works does not mean that I wont reap the benefits of removing it. Now Id like to improve my understanding of exactly what the system does and when. GTRgeoff, Excellent, thankyou The car does feel 'strange' when pushed hard. Im afraid I cant describe it any better than that. I dont notice it so much now that Im used to the car but Im hoping removing the Hicas will bring a more nimble and predictable element to the back end when pushing hard. Ive fitted a 2 way diff as, like you say, tjhe original unit is appauling. Im hoping the car will now be much more 'chuckable'. Ill be back on track in the next week or two to do some testing as Ive just fitted some new 356mm front rotors, new oil cooler, am getting the alignment set and have raised the car 20mm all round to lower the roll centre and I need to see if it all works well before we go to SPA race track in Belgium on the 25th August followed by a few days hooning round the Nurburgring in Germany for the following week Do you guys know of the Nurburgring?

Ive doen a search and can find lots about ditching the Hicas but cant seem to find an explanation of what it does and when. Do the wheels turn the same way as the front or the opposite way? Does the Hicas system try to work as some sort of stability control or does it just improve turn in? Ive removed the Hicas today with a locking bar but Id like to know exactly what the system was designed to do

He was at the track day in a Pugeuot 106 if thats gives an indication of his expectations

Its known as a 25G, I dont have any more info than that to hand Im afraid.

Standard gearbox but its starting to crunch into 4th and 5th. Not sure if its a syncro or clutch release issue.

No probs We will fit an Apexi GT Spec, plumb the w/g externally and see how we go

It runs a 3" quiet exhaust and we have plumbed the external wastegate back onto the down pipe so we can pass the track noise restricitons. I have a more free flowing exhaust on order and we are looking at a mini silencer for the wastegate so we can seperate it from the downpipe

The graph is correct, the car runs 1.5bar from 3500rpm to 7500rpm Its an airfield made up of a mixture of concete and tarmac. Theres loads of run off so its nice and safe to learn the capabilities of the car. We are trying to get it booked into a 'proper' track this week. How would we get more midrange without a boost spike? The power delivery at the moment is excellent, very progressive and predictable. The car would actually be very usable for drifting as it is so responsive and has so little lag. Or at least it will be once I get rid of the Hicas. We are hitting a bit of a brick wall at the top end, more boost just moves the entire power curve to the left a bit but peak power doesnt change. Any ideas? We think maybe the throttle body is a restriction.

We got our Skyline back from our tuners on Friday and took it to a airfield track on Sat for a shakedown. The cars now running 500bhp at 1.5bar, 428bhp @ wheels Check out that power curve, awesome :notworthy Some footage from Elvington on Sat. Bear in mind Im out for a bit of a prat around and to find the limits of the car, Im not going for ultimate lap times: Right click and save as, 10.3mb What 500bhp does to a poor unsuspecting passenger. Be warned LOTS of bad language: Right click and save as, 6.8mb Spec: Greddy plenum Greddy intercooler Tomei Poncams Trust 1.8mm head gasket Power FC 6x 740cc Nismo injectors Greddy TD06-25G turbo 300ZX afm Apexi air filter Greddy radiator Apex oil cooler kit Denso plugs Nismo fuel pump Apexi AVCR OS Giken twin plate clutch Apex 2 way plated diff K-Sport coilovers K-Sport 356mm 8 pot brakes K-Sport tc and camber arms Apex subframe locking collars Cusco/Nismo strut braces Standard bottom end 1.5bar - 501bhp @ fly, 428bhp@wheels

I know the ramp angles can be changed to alter the nature of the diffs but if the manufacturers dont know how to set them so the diffs arent grabby how would you or me do it? Trial and error, try it, remove diff, strip, adjust, rebuild, refit, try it etc? Cusco diffs are sold as capable of running 1.5 or 2 way but I dont know how you change from one to the other. I wasnt aware of any additional parts being needed. I know parts are needed with Kaaz diffs so maybe the impression I got of the Cusco was wrong. Im not a diff expert though, Im just passing on my experiences Rezz, Sounds more like a suspension/bush problem to me.

Ive asked the guy for big ends pics Hes gone a little quiet though, Im interested to find the cause of failure so hope he replies with the list of info Ive requested.

When youre turning a corner the outside wheel has to travel a further distance than the inside. Thats why cars have a diff in the first instance, to allow the wheel to rotate at different speeds. The aftermarket plated diffs distribute the torque more evenly to both wheels so you dont get an inside wheel spinning loads when cornering hard and accelerating. By grabby I mean that the aftermarket diff will try to spin the inside wheel at the same speed as the outside when cornering tight turns slowly. Like when youre parking Something has to give so either the inside wheel chunters round at a similar speed to the outside (the diff loads up until the torque overcomes the traction between tyre and road and the wheel will jump round a part turn) or the diff plates slip. The plates dont like to slip and you can feel them trying to grab and then letting go with a little jolt. Does that make sense?

Ill pass on your comments, thanks

Hence your request for a picture for the top of the piston. Ill see if the guy can get some

Its not my build, I had nothing to do with building it. What do you mean by rod side clearance?

Those are the only pics I have Im afraid. Its a guy in another country thats having probs, I havent been involved with the build myself. The pistons are nothing out of the ordinary, as I say, they have been used with great sucess in a large number of engines to date so I cant see why they would suddenly foul on the crank. I can see maybe one set of pistons being mispacked by Wiseco but two, and both sets going to the same guy? Nah, too much of a coincidence. Maybe the piston to bore clearance isnt correct and the pistons nipped up when the engines got hot but to snap the gudgeon pics? Ive seen the effects of hydraulic locking and even then it was the rods that bent, not the gudgeon pins snapping. Very wierd.

Anyone got any idea what might have cause these failures? The gudeon pins have snapped in two. The same thing happened in two different engines. Both CA18DETs (similar to RB but 4 pot rather than 6), both using Wiseco pistons, both failed in only 100kms. Its a strange one as I know of lots of people using Wisecos in CAs with no problems and yet this one guy has two identical failures. Any idea what he is doing wrong?

The cars running a Power FC and Ive got a Z32 afm for it I went with the thicker head gasket to help prevent det, is this not a good idea on the RB25? 270rwkw is around 360rwhp? Cheers for the info guys

You Oz guys seem to be pushing the R33 GTSTs further than anyone else so Im asking for your help. I bought an R33 GTST recently. It came partially modded but we always want more so Im taking power mods upto to: PFC 740 Nismo injectors Nismo fpr Nismo fuel pump Apexi filter Tomei Poncams Trust 1.8mm head gasket Greddy intercooler Greddy plenum Exhaust Greddy TD06-25G OS Giken twin plate Greddy rad Oil cooler All the bits are there to run 450+rwhp bar the bottom end. The cars going to be used on track so we arent talking 12 seconds track runs or the occasional road blast. We are talking half an hour of sustained caining. What power will be safe for the occasional blast down the strip, road or power run and whats going to be safe for 30 mins of redline action?

I have some rims here that Id like to fit but I really dont know if theyll go under the arches, not matter how hard I try to get them in there. Im surrently running 9.5x18 et30 all round with 255x35x18 with no major headaches and am wondering if I could just squeeze that additional 15mm under there somehow. This is for show only, the car has to drive but Ive got 17" Volks and 18" 8x18 Ultralites for track use so Im not too concerned about rubbing. The cars promotional so needs to look good at shows

If he had standard but worn dampers then he wouldnt have the hard ride unless they were combined with stiffer springs. A lot of the Jap imports we get run very hard coilovers which is why I suggested that as an issue

Ive run an RS 1.5 way and an MZ 2 way in an S13 and an S14. The MZ wasnt as bad on downchanges as the Kaaz, it didnt lock as much although the diffs were run in different cars so the weight etc may vary. The RS was fine but grabby at slow speeds. The 1.5 ways are much better for track use, as opposed to drift.

Ive just read this entire thread. Very impressive figures. More impressive is MR331307s restrained attitude to the grief he has been given. I bought an R33 GTST not long back and am about to fit a Greddy T78, Nismo pump, Nismo 740 injectors, Tomei cams etc but with a stock bottom end. I am still unsure about what power to run on standard pistons and rods but this thread has given me a lot of encouragement. Excellent feedback and info and well done on the results