Scooby

Hey Paul That's the Ross kit. Yeah it's interesting alright, there's 100s of RBs running around going to 9k rpm on the standard system, it seems to afflict some but not others. And lots of people know about it but not the cause, and it also doesn't seem to get addressed much.

Unigroup told me today that there's so much fluctuation in the timing of my 26/30 above about 5500 that it's making tuning very difficult. Basically no matter what it's set at it'll move plus or minus around that point quite a bit as the relationship between the CAS and crank positions doesn't remain true. Read about this on GTROC UK a while back but there was no real solution, and searching reveals some people here have come across it but again no real solution. Could be due to belt flop, dodgy CAS (mine's new)or something else. Apparently happens a but with RB26s but not so much with 25s. Basically it means either tuning it so conservatively on the timing that no matter how much it moves it won't go to det, or modifying the current set up. Ross have a crank trigger set up that's over $2k, Autronic apparently have a set up that uses the flywheel for about $600 (?), and CRD (who have seen this problem but only over about 8k rpm) claim to have a fix for the CAS that's about $450 but they won't share ANY details eg what it is/does. Understandable but I don't want to get stuck with a proprietary system that only they can fix, and I don't know how fixing the CAS only helps as it has to accurately reference the crank position to fix the problem. Does anyone have any experience with this or know of a sure fix that's simple and doesn't cost the earth?

Are you running bumpstops and if so are they the right ones? If you have none the shocks are probably stuffed. And if the wrong ones then will either be stuffed or give hard ride. Alternatively they may be Jap spec Bilsteins which are like rock.

Sorry not sure Ray, looks very similar but not certain.

Gone to ebay folks.

Anyone know for sure if the internals from the R34 GTR will fit inside the R32 diff housings? Thanks in advance.

Excellent condition with the exception of one small plug (pictured) that has broken plastic. On here for one week, if not sold it goes onto ebay. $320 firm delivered via registered post. Any questions please PM me.

Beats having them go down when you're upping it, yeah?

Looking good Chris.

Hi Duncan Good to see it came together for you, and props to Nitto that's awesome. If I could put one of their pumps on without the palaver of yanking the engine etc I'd be running one now. Care to share where it was that said bolt 'bolted' from? Mark

From a reliability perspective there's no issue, although Willwood's comments re potential failure do seem a little OTT as AP and Brembo both make calipers with seals. It's really just a matter of legality and insurance etc, the absence of dust boots shouldn't deter anyone if these issues can be covered.

Looks great but could wear on you pretty quickly. Go for vinyl wrap if you want to try it. Plenty of places will do it for you.

Def interested but would need to know a few things. I believe that calipers without dust boots aren't legal on a street car? Also when you say 'replacements from DBA' what parts can you use ie id there a DBA rotor that works with the Willwood hat. Any chance of getting 355mm rotors? Re the brake bias you also need to take into account the rotor diam and pad dimensions.

Hey Saliya Mate props for spending the money to get a no-crack guarantee if you go down that track. I've seen an R32 GTR with an XR8 bulge an IMHO - taste is relative - it was butt ugly. Marko is right re the cutting, I've done it also and it fits well, I'm a detail freak and I'm happy with it. A vibrating saw is your friend. How was the 10mm measured, I could close mine with no cutting but it wasn't a great fit ie some interference. What's the offending part? I think the raised portion in the bonnet that the R32 has is really attractive, maybe a slightly modified version of that would be the way if cutting doesn't work. I knew a guy who designed for Holden, he showed me how a small change could make a nice car really ugly so choose wisely. If you're good with Photoshop spend the time to make it right.

thrust

billet

sliver

Called re exhaust, PM sent

what's disc thickness on the alcons?

Paul it's discussed in this thread from GTROC http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/52458-rb30-engi...ts-pics-12.html Starts on page 12. Mark

Stuffed

Hey Trent how do you determine noise from knock, and how do you tune knock sensors to respond? do you induce knock and set the sesor at that freq? or does knock always occur in a given freq range?

Haltech has OBD2?

Chris The igniter failures that BoostedBarge and I (documented here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vi...0&start=20) have experienced have been when coasting to a stop to negotiate a junction or similar, and always sudden and final as once the earth cct is gone, nothing works. No missing etc to indicate a problem. Sounds to me like one of the relays in yours is failing, hence the miss.

Took the fried RB26 igniter apart and yep, burnt earth track. Onto the dyno hooked up to the 'scope next week to see if we can measure the actual dwell time.