Scooby

Module is from a 300ZX as it turns out. Part no 2202097E11. Much smaller than the RB26 module so I wonder if that's causing the problem though why remains a mystery. Maybe the RB26 runs greater current than the 300zx. Interestingly here's a link to a US site that shows the wiring conversion. Doesn't show if it stayed working. 300zx module is only about $300 vs $770 for the RB26 one.

light bulb

sin surely you showed them up by taking muscle poses in front of your car???

thanks everyone i'll post some photos/numbers tomorrow.

that's exactly the question; what else - within reason - kills them. the dilemma is created by the RB25 one failing so soon, but it's unknown if lack of compatibility with the RB26 is the reason. so i could replace the RB25 one but if it's the wrong part it'll blow again and i still won't know if it's compatibility or another fault. there's prob not much known about the relative differences between 25/26 igniters so i reckon i'm better off trying to look for other reasons to eliminate the chance of frying another unit whether i go back to an RB26 unit or keep on with the RB25 one. the voltage spike theory was only one possibility, i'm not sure if it's even possible to get a spike to the igniter. hope that makes sense.

thought about a new voltage reg but not sure what would possible cause a spike anyway. coil are new splitfires.

Recently had an igniter go and had to have the car towed to a workshop. One of their suppliers suggested using an RB25 igniter as the plugs are the same, it's less than half the price, and just needs pins rearranged. I was sceptical but they were adamant. This lasted about 100km and died. Supplier has taken the unit to test it and in the meantime I've checked earths to the coils (new loom) and the igniter - apparently a bad earth can dramatically increase current draw and fry things - and the earths are fine. So either the RB25 solution isn't a good one, or 'something' like a voltage spike - not sure from what - killed it. The question is, what? Have order a gen Nissan one as it'll last another 20 years but don't want to risk blowing that at $750 if something killed the other one rather than it failing due to poor parts selection. Grateful for any feedback if someone's been down this path. Cheers

interested in the sump. location?

Hygeine

Guys Roy and Risking are on the money, by the time you stuff about endlessly with brackets, mcyl, valves, custom hats etc you're so close to the cost of APs it's not funny abd they're a 'bolt on and be happy' proposition. Also try these: http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=APBR...p;model=SKYLINE US $2500 plus freight even at $400 and you're there. Just my 2c.

recycle

movie

Whatever you would get from Heasmans, Wholesale suspension etc if you asked for a set of Bilsteins for an R32 GTR. Sorry not familiar with B6 or B8.

Elle

bowl

Brisbane

Hey Shaun what did you decide on?

R32 GTR.

afaik the gtr ones have a small machine relief to accomodate the hub. Unique Autosport do this to their dog bone adapters for GTRs to use the stock caliper with a dog bone and 324mm disc. they might be able to help.

way too much lag.

chirp chirp...

Hey Stevo why are you going to -5s?

bump

hey mark i'll swap your -5s for my -7s (-7s are a bit small for a 26/30)

I reckon if you had that much oil in the can you'd have bigger problems? Considering what's in your system now stays in, I'm thinking it can't be that much.