Scooby

Just had the thing retuned here in Canberra, 336rwkw @20psi 7Krpm inlet temps not over 48deg C. Same convex power curve as before (previous post with dyno chart) but bigger numbers. As said before only thing I chnaged was the stock exh mani heat shileds. So buggered if I know, but it works well now. I'll try and scan the dyno pull. Cheers

I often wondered about cam timing with a 38mm higher block and posted here about it but never got much of a response. 16ad on the inlet is al ot how much before you bang valves. Why does the idler pulley location matter?

mate according to your sig you have 11. go for it.

exiting jerra onto lanyon drive. people who zoom down the inside lane on the tompsitt dual carriageway, past everyone queing in the outside lane for a left turn at the end onto lanyon, hit the roundabout, go all the way around and then having right of way against people queing on tompsitt, force them to wait. apologies if this is confusing to non jerra people, anyone there will know what i mean. problem is while it's bloody rude its probably legal.

I'll take the wheel. Send me your details.

bump

New retail price on Bilsteins in $1270 delivered from Sydney Suspension. At $950 these are more than 30% off.

dyno'd today locally, 272 rwkw which is close enough to the 279 recorded in Sydney. pressure drop across the cooler remained at 3 psi up to 19 psi so far. no rise in inlet temp above 45 deg noticed, even at engine temp of 100 deg. only difference has been putting the stock manifold heat shields back.

bump

Bilsteins were part of the Sydneykid group buy. Konis were revalved for ride. Both have street valving.

still available

still available. pm sent

PM sent

pms replied

However, I'm at 280rwkw rather than 300-330 (I know we're not racing dynos) and there is a curious hike in temp at 15 psi which I'd like to discover the reason for since I should have 7 psi or so before temp becomes a prob. Unless of course it is cam or turbo related as suggested.

best he could recollect was between 50 and 60.

found out today inlet temps were over 50 deg. ambient was about 30 deg. afr on that dyno run was 11.2.

Thanks Titan for posting that, it answers questions I have been asking for some time; 'how are knock values actually determined'. I suggested it was based on measuring the noise of the engine when it was known to not be knocking, which appears to be the case. Cheers

asked for the inlet temp data but didn't get it. def running an intercooler. still drops off at 6250 ish though, would like to retain legs through the gears so cams are prob a must anyway. scott is still adamant that it's cams. lined up to check pressure drop and temps on a local dyno.

dyno chart

i haven't tried to look at the maps yet. the way i sse it is that boost pressure is broadly related to what speed the turbos are being turned at - whether it's an RB26 or RB30 sized pump moving the exhaust gas. so i think i should be able to get 23 or so psi out of them either way before seeing a big hike in inlet temps. the fact that the 30 will push 15% more air just means that it should get to the 23 psi level at lower engine rpm. i don't expect / want them to make more than 430rwhp, but while not wishing to compare dynos i'm a fair bit shy of that with 370rwhp at 15psi, remembering that he didn't want to run it at 17 psi due to inlet temps. injectors are 660cc so i think they should cover my needs pretty well. the head has some minor porting. there has got to be some inefficiency raising the air temps. i reinstalled the heat shields over the stock exh manifolds as the amount of heat rising onto the twin turbo pipe is fairly substantial. might be worthless but we'll see. i'll try and post a dyno chart and also temp data.

front disc diameter?

that car is sensational. sorry to hear about the power robbing.

open to reasonable offers, konis are well over $1000 new

Mick if hr32 doesn't take it and it's the same shape as the GTR wheel I'm interested. Cheers