Scooby

if the grommet in the fuel tank inspection cover is convex or concave ie does it dome towards the bootlid, or down towards the tank? i think i might've found a found a factory fcuk up. bit late for a refund. thanks in advance.

lol, yeah i see your point.

fair enough. i would have a vipec board in the GTR now but the tune last thursday didn't go ahead because boards weren't available. so the QT doesn't really save much time at all?

pm sent

Hi Paul It doesn't do timing, just AFRs. I do understand your point re dyno time. I'm also trying to be as objective as possible, and not being critical in the least about either Vipec or the tuners who use it. However, if the product's own website, and the man who developed it, state that a full new new map can be done in 20min, and better than most tuners, then the tuning time and cost should be less than for a product that doesn't have the same functionality. I've always thought that's why people pay for functionality in a good product like Vipec in the first place. If the cost of tuning doesn't change because despite the advantage of QT more time is required to utilise the extra features offered by the Vipec that would be understandable, but this is almost the opposite. It's up to individuals what they do, but I'd welcome any logical explanation as to why a time saving function that the owner pays for shouldn't lower the cost of fuel mapping. Anyway...just my 2c, this thread is about Anthony's experiences. Cheers

Hi Anthony Great to see you're using Quicktune, I was hoping someone would. I posted on the original Vipec thread and asked why, when the Vipec site says that a full map could be done in 20 minutes using QT, tuners are still asking $750-1000 or even more for a tune. The tuners I spoke to said 'it's just an aid' etc but the site actually claims that QT is better than most tuners. I asked Ray about this anomally, and said I felt that paying for the QT function in the Vipec, but then getting slugged for a manually tuned fuel map anyway, was self defeating. A bit like having a dog and barking yourself. He agreed, and said it's because most shops have to pay off expensive dynos etc so the cost of tuning would probably stay high because that's the way it is in the industry. I've been wanting to use the Vipec for a while but really wanted to see someone go there properly with QT. Well done.

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got the charcoal can bracket? can't see it in the pic. cheers

if push comes to shove use a Hella aftermarket one. might cost but you clear the defect and no one tells you how to mount it as long as its there.

i'm after charcoal can and bracket please

i meant the complete set. can't say for sure they are a simple 'bolt on' as i've never tried them myself, however, for what they offer and the price they can be had for it's potentially an attractive option. also its the Z33 with Brembo calipers that you need to source, i doubt that making dog bones for an increase from 300 to 322 mm using the R33 Brembo would be fun (bolt holes too close) unless the lugs are extremely offset.

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I spoke to Zeckhausen racing which is prob the largest S'tech agency in the US. They maintain that the S'tech fronts are perfectly balanced to the stock rears (and obviously S'tech rears) and warned me against using F50s, which they claim will upset the front / rear bias. The calcs I did comparing the AP6 piston and GTR Brembos showed not much difference to stock in terms of bias (which is not only piston area) and the small AP pistons suggest that this was intended to be the case. However the F50s showed significantly larger piston area and front bias. I think if you can get reasonably priced S'tech stuff then it's as good as anything else. Have you considered the Z33 rears at 322mm? Interestingly the bias was still front heavy when I compared them with the F50s.

i once purchased a Brembo GT-P 6 pot f / 4 pot r kit to do the same thing but moved it on. the offset of the GT-P brakes is very similar to the GTR offset, but the hub and stud holes are too large. then of course there is the cost of brackets, which at $1K for fronts seems a little high but comparable to quotes i've had that are equally, in my opinion, outrageous. tried getting GTR pattern DBA 5000s but it was like pulling teeth. the handbrake problem would not be easy to overcome either, custom hats is prob the only way. finally the the cost / hassle of adapting the kit and even then maybe having to stuff about with master cyl diam if there's too pedal travel just wasn't worth it. what you're being offered is really a steal for what it is - a great upgrade for a Ford. Holmart are selling VY/VZ AP front and rear kits complete (350mm f) for $3.5k. compared to what we are getting stung for GTR brakes it's amazing. as suggested use the R33 GTR rears and try to get some F40/50 fronts with suitable discs and adapters. those calipers can be picked up quite cheaply, why no one has produced a kit with suitable 355mm rotors and adapters so people can simply add their own calipers is beyond me given the demand for GTR brake upgrades and the availability of the F40/50 off the Fords and from o/s. suggested this to one large brake distributor but no interest, not surprising if people are readily paying $6k for AP fronts or $1k just for brackets. current economic climate may make them reconsider. stoptech looked perfect at one stage but i wasn't going to pay $3500 locally for a kit that was $2600US retail when the exchange rate was nearly 1:1. and company freight rates prob cost them $200. from what i can see they aren't selling many locally but neither are they dropping price. just al ittle too rich for me given that the distributor isn't paying retail either. sorry but my research has not revealed any really cost effective and worthwhile upgrades beyond using R33 GTR Brembos. there is the K-Sport brand that I understand is similar to G4 etc but with dust boots, which are a legal requirement for a street car and share parts sizes etc with some other brands. i haven't seen them used for any length of time so i have no idea if they are any good when it comes to durability or safety. cheers

cam still there guys, let me know if you can get them cheaper.

searched but didn't find anything. just wondering if anyone has tested cam wheel adjustments on an RB26/30 and can prvide some advice. might be the same rule of thumb settings for RB26 but then...might not. cheers

old topic but 12 months later and i've found the prob in an idle afternoon. seems to be the fuel check valve between the tank and charcoal can. if you apply vacuum to the fuel tank line where it normally joins to the can, it replicates the noise. no more strange fart$ng noises.

Project Mu NS. No squealing after bedding in and some normal driving around. Great feel. Prob not good for extended or fast track use, but OK for a bit of hard work.

Is Ed going to check the tune and afr's etc before you take it, especially since it's now a 2.8? A bit of dyno time also helps to check for leaks after a brand new install too, often happens no matter how careful you are. Late pm or early am is good so you're not sitting in traffic, and can drive it the way you need to. Bateman's and back is a good varied run. Re mineral oil for the run in, most is too heavy for RBs (Nissan rec 7.5W) and the special run-in stuff is about 25W. Turbo seals don't like that. Closest I could find was Penrite 10W-30 mineral and that showed high but still OK pressure on my mechanical gauge. You've probabably already thought of all this, of course definately go with what Ed and Greg say, just my 2c. Cheers and good luck!

not sure how it compares to the autronic (there's been much discussion on vipec vs link vs autronic elsewhere). sure the tables need to be set up but presumably it should cut the cost / time for tuning quite a bit at 20 mins for a full fuel map? the vipec literature also suggests that Quicktune is more accurate than most tuners: The accuracy of the QuickTune can be setup in the software from 0.5% to 5.0% accuracy. The default value is 2% accuracy, this is generally a lot more accuracy then most tuners manual tune engines. one tuner suggested to me that the Quicktune won't become popular because it reduces the time/ cost of tuning and that means less $ for what many see as a good cash-cow. most good workshops have too much work anyway so i'm not sure that would become a reality, they'd just be doing something else.

Check this out re Vipec Quicktune http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/QuickTune.html particularly the words: The QuickTune software is much faster then a good operator. It is not possible to manually tune as quick as the QuickTune . A typical engine will take less than 20 minutes to fully map on an engine dyno. Doesn't do knock or ign, but pretty impressive if it does what it claims.

hi can i get a quote for a pair of R33 GTR slotted rears please delivered to canberra

pms replied

Sard AFR sold guys thanks for the interest. Cams still there.

sard reg sold pending payment