Scooby

turbo

That's what I thought but F50s come in different piston sizes.

Does anyone know the size of the Brembo pistons on the R32 GTR F50 kit? Cheers

fire

drag

met too lol ( i mean...he did, he did...shoulda seen it... )

henry

that seems to be the downfall with underbody braces - they don't have anything that braces across the chassis effectively in the direction of the force. i'm not sure how you could achieve that without having height in at least one domension of the brace with the other dimension being across the chassis, such as the panel at the rear of the R33 GTR. the underbody stuff would help if the problem was with the front meeting the rear in a horizontal plane, but its not.

sorry no idea.

so all up there's not much that can be done to improve torsional rigidity at reasonable cost? we pretty much have to do with what we've got?

pagan

Hi Gary so...you're going to start making the good stuff for us? or are there reasons why it's simply not production feasible? also is it feasible at all or are there fitment / design issues that make it impractical to pursue rigidity improvements unless it's a full cage ? Cheers

mate if you have the cash it's yours.

bump

give

Just saw an article on Whiteline's kit for the Dugong ie latest model WRX, including fairly straightforward underbody chassis bracing. Despite the fact that there's probably a good market, I suspect it will be quite some time before they produce similar for Skylines, if ever, unless Sydneykid can convince them otherwise. The R32 GTR could do with a bit of stiffening and most of us are using front and rear strut braces. The only other thing I've seen around is the Do Luck brace that goes across the tunnel and bolts to the inner sills but I'm not sure it does much. Of course a cage would do the trick but it's illegal for road use. The R33 GTR has a big panel between the rear shock towers that seems to keep both of them moving in the same direction quite well, and the R34 GTR improves on this again. There is a lot of stuff in Japan - various brackets etc but I'm not sure of their effectiveness. Last thing I want to do is add 10 kg of weight for no improvement in rigidity. Has anyone got experience with Japanese stuff or their own, that actually works? Cheers

Bornhofen

with the thermostat shut it's just like having a stock set up where the oil comes out, goes through the filter and back into the block.

frontal

jack and jill

mate if it makes it easier the address, account details etc are all on the Nistune website.

heavy

scrap

subie i agree with the other guys, those prices are way too high. these shops are working on the basis that since we're all used to paying $1000 for a pfc plus $500 for a tune, people will blindly jump at paying $1000 because it's cheaper. of course that completely ignores the issue of exactly what you're getting for your money! a shop in silverwater was asking $1800 for a Chiptorque remap when Chiptorque themselves in Brisbane were asking only $500. go figure, i know what i call that. if you send your ecu to Nistune they will install the new board and return it to you for $250. you don't get the software to tune yourself for that , you have to go to a tuner who has it. a single user licence that allows you to tune yourself costs an extra $200 from memory, but then a multi user licence that tuners buy allows them to tune as many cars as they want and only costs $600. you might like to ask some of these shops why they effectively want $750 for a tune when it's so similar to a PFC, i'd be interested to see their response. as you correctly state that's all well and good, but that's what they're charging so what are the options? not sure if it's of help to you but i know that Autotech in Canberra have Nistune and will not charge you anywhere near $750 for a tune, more like $200 if it's straightforward. throw in $150 for fuel and your up for $600 or so total. also the Nistune website has a list of tuners, try there.

does the HKS twin power replace the standard igniter? cheers