Scooby

goggles

turbos don't squeal unless they're really happy and they're girl turbos. seriously; have a look at the turbos with a torch, it will either say Garrett or HKS on the inlet side but neither should squeal. who did the overhaul? does it come and go with revs in neutral, revs with little / no boost or revs with load / boost. exhaust leak should make a ticking noise. if it's easy to make it happen listen under the bonnet so you can try and pinpont the location of the noise. hopefully they can be more precise than 'could be a dying turbo' as you're unlikely to want to take the the turbos off on that basis. cheers

cyclids

as far as i know there is no need to run in a head, the main reason engines are run in is to bed the rings but no such interface exists in a head. some head gaskets require retorquing, others don't, just go with the manufacturers rec. cheers

jimmy

Hi Simon, I'll be getting my 26/30 tuned using Nistune. Just wondering why you think Jeff is so much better than the other two? I have no views or affiliation either way. Cheers

nits

itchy

all hail michelle the Hijacker! all hail michelle the Hijacker!

squawk

yes, but do you know for sure which ones or how to communicate with them to order their gear? they seem to be the sticking points that Angus and I have encountered. i reckon it's either Biot, Rdd or Dixcel. Close?

isn't that funny, we both have the same discs and hats so we know they exist but can't find them! mumble f@rk mumble.... i'm surprised that neither DBA or RDA or Gavsport et al make aftermarket options for the GTR, particularly since the 32/33/34 are almost identical in terms of hubs etc apart from the M14 bolt size on the 34 and so many of us are bitching about the mega $ for AP and Brembo kits while desperately wanting bigger brakes. i reckon if someone came up with a kit to adapt the F50 and 355mm disc currently found on falcons to the GTR they'd do OK and make a big hole in the sales of some obscenely priced options.

isn't it great when they heavy you and then back off when they realise you won't cough. b@stards. makes you realise how 'fit-ups' occur when people are intimidated. There were a few clever d$ck bush lawyer types in the Army who used to try the 'sir i'm not allowed to call you a f<ckwit, am i? No. but i'm allowed to think it aren't i...?' line, unfortunately for them the law manual provided ways to respond. I must admit I had a good lol when I first heard it years ago, credit where it's due. but seriously Lady Bytes...you've missed a golden opp here. i'd have taken the ticket as an admission that you did get the rig sideways in 100m, and after the rumours took hold you'd be the stuff of legend for ever. just something to consider for next time Cheers

viking

Hi Angus, They sure look good, but I think $1300 is a lot unless they needed to make everything from scratch which I suspect was the case. Redrilled - dare I say it - DBA 5000s are half the price, and I think Brembos are about $1500. The orginals you have look a lot like mine with a 10 bolt pattern. Brembo is 10 bolt also but I don't think Dixcel make a 340mm rotor and I'd bet our hats wouldn't match in other ways. Hence the problem. Maybe the Beer Baron should become the Brake Baron? Cheers

I used a RIPS plate before Pro Engines started making them, as far as I remember they use the standard holes and have been doing so for years. When I see an RB30 with the bottom torn off I'll believe they need bigger fasteners. Cheers

have a look before you shell out $ to replace it, if the cells look OK and you can see through it it's prob OK.

We're bl**dy neglected here for choice. Check out Jap Yahoo! sometime and you'll see the massive range available to them; Dixcel 355mm Brembo and Alcon replacement rotors for $650, brackets to put just about anything on anything usually about $350, Biot and RDD stuff...the list goes on. Problem is you can't tell other than in a very basic sense exactly what they fit. I picked up a set of F50 calipers and 340mm two piece discs with brackets for $2100 landed. Problem is if I want to get replacement rotors or upgrade to 355mm discs I'm stuffed unless I go to 355mm GT-P DBA 5000s blanks (very similar offset) and get them drilled for the GTR. As for the rears if I want to go bigger than the standard 300mm it's a pain because of the handbrake issue. I know places like Racebrakes and Gavsport have their own hats and rotors that gets made up by their mates, but I'm not sure I want to go down that path either - not the least reason for which is that they seem to want to charge like it's their first go at production when I know the dimensions are in a CNC somewhere and take bugger all time to make. Bring on a local Biot / Dixcel etc distributor.

conan

probably not the sintered ones, but i think there'd be a demand for billet units that people can put into stock pumps as a strengthened component instead of paying mega $ for jun etc pumps.

pillage

heard this term a lot and have limited my own 26/30 to 7k rpm with an ATI balancer BUT have yet to see or hear firm evidence of someone who has trashed an RB30 and can conclusively trace the cause to harmonics. not saying it an't so but can anyone provide evidence?

reverse synchros!!?? so THAT'S why when i put my 32 into 6th gear there's no crunching but it slows down a lot... Gotta say I'm with Mick, his RB25 conversion is a cracker and looks OEM, ditto Bluprint's R31 with the Neo. Due respect to your desire to hot rod the RB20, but I really think you'll do better from a bang/buck perspective doing what they did. If your RB20 is going OK then sell it and put the money towards an RB25 half cut. It will go well even on the stock ecu with some boost tweaks. An N1 oil pump is not a neccessity for the street, and unless you have a baffled sump and increased capacity will add to the potential for oil starvation. Also the N1 water pump is designed for low cavitation at high rpm, not for moving water at low speeds when you generally need it most in a street car. My 2c Cheers

absolutely - any good workshop should be able to do so but head gaskets and cracked blocks / heads can be hard to diagnose unless they're like the grand canyon, and in this case it appears they're not. if it's a head gasket you might see coolant weeping on the side of the block. comp test might also show this up. pressure testing the cooling system will show leaks from places there shouldn't be, and also check for tiny ie not cavitation type bubbles in the coolant when warm. the fan might not be operating correctly but that shouldn't affect it at the track so it's likely to be another gremlin. make sure the system is bled correctly, not sure exactly how much difference it makes but air in the cooling system is not your friend. as beer baron said temps will get high on track but i take from what you're saying that there appears to be an issue in comparison to other cars.

maybe: head gasket issues cracked head or block based on the list of mods i take it you haven't got a pfc so it can't be a tuning issue.