Scooby

mind if I ask how much the ATI cost you?

got Ed to do some work yesterday at Autotech - couple of dyno runs, attessa bleed and tps check. excellent all round and i'm a fussy b@stard.

OK the turbos are back on and the biatch has been on the dyno; R34N1s with long style dumps and 3"exhaust Stock injectors, pump and ecu Blitz pods (haven't got the stock airbox to fit yet. it's a real pain in the ass so I think I'll go K&N pods with a fabbed airbox anyway) 10 psi 220rwk@6500 power curve flattened out so prob not much left. Rich on boost, dipping into 10:1 Running really rich also on part throttle when bimbling around, 2nd gear 40km/h etc. Can hear a very slight unneveness/burble but very smooth on boost. Not sure why this is since it's the stock ecu. 300rwkw should be achievable with boost, a tune and bigger pump/squirters

wild oats

biatches

broadly a big single is just as responsive as twins in its ideal operating range. problem is singles have a narrower and sharper effective rpm operating range, and this can have some disadvantages. singles and twins will both respond well from boost threshold until they max out, in the case of the twins say between 3500 and 7500 rpm, the single between 5000 and 7500 rpm. twins are more responsive but the power production is not as on/off. the sudden power production of the single is what brings the big bang and the loss of traction.

smaller turbos don't need as much gas to move them and therefore spin sooner / boost at lower rpm. same situation as a single; smaller will boost quicker but not have as much top end. using two instead of one provides quick boost and good combined power.

Hi Greg; Any idea what the power curve looks like? I agree with the fitting advantages of a single but but it's the peaky nature of most singles I don't like. Why not stick to twins in a GTR 26/30? Not sure if you're a Borat fan but to quote him it 'is pain in my assholes'. Things on that side don't fit well anymore. Heater hoses, bov plumbing, dump pipes (even more fun if you have the long wastegate style), airbox, oil feed and return lines, water lines, AFM plumbing. Only upside is you don't need a PFC/remap... initially. Cheers

Ali G (Respect! LOL! )

Car looks great, clean and straight GTRs are very nice, very rare, and a pleasure to own. I put 40k trouble free km on mine barring a dodgy AFM, stock as a rock except for Nismo exh, and enjoyed every minute of it. With respect to you and the fact that I don't know your experience level, I'd suggest starting with the basics and eliminating the weak links, make sure the engine is healthy first if you haven't done so already ie comp/leakdown test and dyno run. Then tackle the turbos to make sure they won't lose an exh wheel and dump ceramic dust in your engine. For now I'd put that restrictor back in to be honest. Sure it should be OK but 15 psi/1 bar is the practical limit for ceramic turbos - do you want to take the chance? A well treated stock RB26 even with a $1500 steel wheeled standard turbo conversion will safely make 250 rwkw for a long time with a good tune , although to get there you might need a PFC or remap. Overdriving the injectors and a boost controller is another way. Drive a well set up 250 rwkw car if you have access to one and see if it gets your attention. Even a stock 170 rwkw GTR with exhaust will step out under power in corners, powerful and quick aren't always the same. Croydon have 2860-7s ie Garrett ie Nissan R34 N1 versions of the HKS GTSS for $2300 pair. Add another $400 for some HKS or R34 GTR dumps from the Jap auctions. Don't pay more than $1000 or so for fitting including gaskets, fluids and proper Glenlock nuts on the turbos and dumps. Takes a comfy 8 hours to r and r turbos if you know your way around them, at a generous $100 /hour thats $800 for labour. If you go that way get the exh manifold outlet 'gasket matched' to the turbo as the stock ones aren't. Also make sure your cat is not blocked and that some wally hasn't put a 2.5 in front flange on it. It happens. Think carefully if you are tempted by pod filters, the stock airbox is probably good for 300 rwkw +. It'll be expensive but if the car is as good as it looks spend the time, and unfortunately $, to make sure the thing works as a GTR should. Attessa needs to be bled and working correctly, and make sure your wheel alignment (don't laugh, people run huge camber and wonder why the thing tramlines uncontrollably) is on the money. The Whiteline Suspension kit that Sydneykid sells is a good thing. Hornsby Nissan knows stock GTRs very very well. Expensive but worth it if you want to know what you've got and what you haven't in that car. And (again, sorry if I'm telling you to suck eggs) remember it's a GTR and doesn't behave at all like a WRX or Audi Quattro in corners. In particular don't go flinging it at a hairpin expecting it to stick because it's a 'GTR', because it will bite you. When you get to know it well enough, and can actually feel the effect of Hicas, decide for yourself if you want to get rid of it - if you're not happy/intending to mess about at the limit of adhesion you may want to just leave it alone. Worth doing a check to see if it's even working in the first place. Re the brakes, standard GTR calipers will lock up R compound tyres so ask yourself if you really need those shiny new Brembos / big brake kits everyone wants. Good DOT 5.1 fluid (don't use DOT 5 it's silicon and will wreck your seals etc) good quality pads, correctly machined rotors - stock cross drilled ones are fine if the thickness is OK and you're not trying to brake the Wakefield lap record, but slotted RDAs will provide better feel - and a good master cyl with a $100 Cusco stopper will allow you to do most things within reason. Make sure you run mineral oil in your gearbox if it's in good shape, good condition GTR synchros do not generally like synthetic as it interferes with their ability to engage. Controversial subject but talk to the good gearbox builders. Sorry that's a long post, just some of the things I've picked up in 4 years of ownership. Hope it helps. Cheers

style

you did WHAT??? unless i'm misinterpreting the situation, she is now smacking you on the dongle with a piece of fencing wire. when she has finished, set fire to yourself as a reminder to never share secret men's business with her again. lol could be worse, mine gets just as excited about car parts as I do and then no one protects the Visa card. trident is right - you will get some gain from a pfc tune but no where near as much as you will if you tune it with the other bits like bigger bb turbo, fmic etc present.

rooted

I think the twin set up gives more flexibility with quicker spool, better response and a more progressive power delivery. From the dyno sheets I've seen the twins are less peaky than a single, which seem to make their power in a narrower band. Fine from a race car perspective maybe, but for my streeter if I can get a nice 300 rwkw from the R34N1 twins on the 26/30 I'll be happier than running a T04Z etc that gives me 400rwkw but almost doubles the power between 4500 and 6000 rpm. Show me a big single that performs like the twins and I'd be pretty interested.

beaver

putting squirters in the RB30 block is a nightmare, and the thickness of the mounting surface can vary block to block so not every 30 block can be converted. also there are numerous people getting good power and relaibility without them.

bingle

beans

presumably you have to brake from over 60 kh/h before they will generate enough heat?

harlot

gym

Richard do you trust those those two small bolts in the bracket to hold the extinguisher back from flying off and getting you in the legs when you have a high speed off/stop? Not sure what force is generated by a lkg+ mass when you do a Radisich Bathurst 06 into the wall but it's a lot. They may be more than enough but just thought I'd put the question. Cheers

Hi people, I'm chasing a set of these, please let me know if you've got some sitting around that you want to move. They need to be 76mm inlet. Cheers 0402 837 117.

dirt

block