Scooby

projectile

Here's my set up. Matt I'm with Shane. Your nuts are strange.

goes to hollywood

hi matt, like shane i have a t piece into the block. there is no way I could get mine off without moving the sump as it has a buffalo horn layout ie the ends on the t piece are quite long, and it would hit the driveshaft flange. it clears the block easily as it sits out a bit so we put the sump on after fitting the t piece. my t piece is fabricated from tubing, i did not use a pirtek piece as i'm not as flashy as shane

excellent, looking forward the results

Ok slightly off topic, what do you guys think when paired with a 26/30 DETT. I'm thinking the -5s on the 30 would be similar to the -7s on the 26. Cheers

as opposed to cutting a part? or is that a hole in the whole?

skin

PM sent

...and the best they can offer is parts only at $1269 to rebuild both. Wouldn't spend any more money with 'that' shop, would even pay more elsewhere than line their pockets after being screwed. Being sent to Garrett for a 2nd opinion.

no oil starvation (guess that's a good thing), just wear. so the turbos that were given an OK and a "we'd buy them, no problem" seal of approval were stuffed from the start. now it's "well we can only inspect them to an extent". as i pointed out, pity they didn't say that at the time. as if i'd spend that much money and leave things to chance. bottom line is they know they screwed up but there is no way they'll compensate me for the full amount. trying to reach an agreement for parts only so at least i'm getting somewhat of a break. Hi Geoff, it sure does suck. I was thinking of the hi flow stockers but I'm worried about running out of puff at higher revs with the RB30. Even thought about having the R34N1s hi flowed to be sure. A while back I also invested in having the exh housings ceramic coated and ported by the same place that OK'd the turbos, such was my trust in their recommendation about their condition, so i'm kind of stuck with these. Cheers

windscreens o'brien. no joke, was about $260 in either brown or green tint.

got the dreaded phone call today. noisy turbo had worn bearing and seal, needs machining and oversize seal. other one - not noisy - has worn bearing. had them checked and given stamp of approval by same turbo shop before purchase. 20 km later, stuffed. go figure. waiting for advice on if it looks like there has been oil starvation. been quoted $650 for a basic rebuild, plus $400 for parts. each. not sure why one needs less work but is still the same to repair. and this is a 'reduced' price apparently. YAY! anyone know if this sounds reasonable? cost is not much behind new equivalent Garretts, but not sure it's worth the extra over rebuilt ones. Cheers

if you're there already, my arrival would only raise the standard

little F%ckers. geez i hate that sh^t. so woden is becoming full of trash, civic has been for ages...wonder where the nice parts are? i feel safe just about anywhere in Sydney. can't say the same for here. canberra just seems to have more than it's share of immature, pocket picking, bag snatching, nasty, slimy, vandalising little germs.

me too! thanks for the number Shane. ps bloody twin turbo pipe still hits - just - at the point above where the second turbo joins. least of my concerns, easily fixed. removing the twin turbo boss helped a lot though.

Craved: motorsport connections you reckon? i'll look them up on the web. thanks Sky30: i'm using R34N1s, contemplating getting them high flowed if the noisy one has to be rebuilt anyway. not sure of rpm, have been meaning to find out. 100km/h was at 4500 rpm. max boost was at 85km/h. i'm thinking 3rd gear. Cheers

so...after months of waiting the day started well...excellent flatbed operator Eurotow took it to exhaust place...exhaust place actually called me just before it was ready, just as i asked, so i could get out there and take it straight next door to the dyno...perfect dyno run to only 4500 rpm on stock ecu produced 176 rwkw @10 psi, afrs great...get home and front turbo makes noise like a vacuum cleaner winding down. turbos off - lots of fun with long style dumps. there's oil in the feed and return lines, so lack of oil that doesn't seem to be the problem. turbos now on the way to GCG. spoke to Brett and when i said 'new motor' he said they'd like a dollar for every time someone bought new bb turbos, put them on a new motor, and got crap in the feedline from the rebuild that blocked the .6mm oil feed orifice and stuffed the turbo. i don't know if this is the problem with mine yet or not, and they were 2nd hand although from a trusted source and checked out by gcg before purchase. Brett recommended using plain bearing turbos for run in if possible to avoid this (looks over to plain bearing turbos on side of RB26 on engine stand in garage) and also suggested running filters in the feed lines. fun and games. oh, and $

pm sent re turbos

Guys; recently I bought a cam belt tensioner nut and washers from Nissan. the nut they supplied was wrong. it has a flange on it and there is no way it will fit given the eccentric design of the tensioner spindle. part numbers etc match on FAST but local parts guy in Canberra has admitted it's wrong and Nissan Aust is looking into it. point is that if you're after one desperately for the weekend, and planned to get one from Nissan on the way home fri arvo, have a back up plan. as i said to the local guy it's not about the $1.50 nut, it's about the whole system that stops the pistons from banging the valves. if something goes wrong there is even a sniff of a warranty claim Nissan will dump you if they discover that you've used a non standard part. anyhow take it for what it's worth, might help someone.

yeah it was a pretty restless night. couldn't believe how quickly it caught, ran and idled smoothly - pretty much straight way, with instant pressure. at least if it's a dog on the dyno I can turn it into a giant water pump and use the RB26 to run it. just got to concentrate on the niggly things that are bound to arise. last night was filling it with coolant, then heard it hitting the floor - thinks oh fark what's that - and it was the banjo that goes into the block - about .5 of a thread too long and the washer didn't seal. running long dumps so getting it out was a bugger, but an hour later and with some judicious application with a hacksaw no more leaks.

i'll be sure to watch my speedo instead of the road. a%%holes.

bonnet shuts. engine goes. flatbed tomorrow morning over to exh shop for new y pipe, then onto dyno to check timing and mixtures etc. giddyup.

interested pending pics

i'm going with battery. below about 12.5 is trouble, 13.2 is more like it for a good'n.