Scooby

surpass

found it! actually screws into a flat face on the rear turbo and also holds a bracket in place. GTRs are earth sensitive apparently so I'm playing it safe. Regards

Can someone out there with R32 GTR goodness in the garage please remind me where this earth strap attaches to the engine. I'm talking about the narrow braided ribbon, one end of which screws to inner guard near the shock tower. The other end has a self tapper but i can't remember where it goes. Cheers

pm sent

go for it, that sucks!

hound

bimbo

try checking all the earths. sounds like the lights are robbing power from the ignition when you turn them on. stupid question maybe but if you turn the lights on during the day does it still play up?

Yes the N1s are going to be interesting. What turbos are you using? Make sure that the oil return from the head points downwards all the way - as much as possible - as it's only gravity feed. Looks like it snakes upwards a little in the pic but it's probably just that way for the photo. Cheers

i hope the 5.9K rebuild incudes all the good bits ie forgies otherwise it's an expensive build. ditto the $3K to fit, i hope that at least includes a tune. 300rwkw is quite a bit to handle in a 2wd car and probably over the limit on stock internals, not sure from your post if you're using stock or forged. either way, the reliability comes down to workmanship and tuning (ie workmanship) as there is no reason why the thing should break if done properly. Cubes has done 50K km plus with no issues. if you have a problem with rebuilt motors that's understandable given some of the stories floating around but it's also what people do with their rebuilt motors that's the problem.

Create

Hi GDZ1LA it's true that reading the whole thread can be hard work. However, help is easy to find. The UK GTR site that prego mentioned is outstanding and so is the link to a detailed guide that Cubes has at the end of every post, which you only need click on to download. Some people have read both and posted with questions, and those who've done this conversion are only too happy to answer. R33 Racer, Cubes, Shanef, GTR Geoff and Sydneykid have been a real help to many of us including me. The RB30 conversion dyno thread will also give you an idea of performance but bear in mind all configurations differ for obvious reasons. Cheers

Hi R32 TT I'm doing the same as Shanef. Cannot comment on performance ''in service'' but it was suggested by a very good workshop with RB26/30 experience who made the fittings. What are you doing for an adapter plate and pickup?

coz they are tools that can't dress themselves.

high

seek

Camouflage

haircut?

Bigpond. Blinding incompetence at every turn.

gunpowder

Hi Cubes I know mate, found it ages ago. What I can't find is what to measure the 20kg against ie there must be a deflection value. It's currently one dimensional. Unless I'm missing something. There's a hole about 5mm diam, left of where the second tensioner goes as per the guide. It's about 15mm deep. The stud that goes into the water jacket definately has only 9mm engagement? Cheers

What swayed me is the reinforcing behind the stock location. It may be meaningless but it might not - granted I haven't heard stories of the high mount set up failing. If I knew enough about the potential effect on susp geometry to lower the mounts, and it was a quick and easy, and I knew it would do the job, no problem. Making it fit without lowering is tedious but it's 'safer' if you're not a pro. I thought using 2 adjusters was an advantage given the cost of idlers, as per the guide? How do you set and measure the tension on yours? Still can't find a deflection value for the 20kg tension listed in the RB 26 manual. I'm going to work on my tensioner mount. Cheers

Hi Cubes yeah I'm just bitching. Leaning towards the higher tensioner, now it's in the car though i'll have to make up a jig to get the hole perpendicular. I only went for the stock type setup as it's got significant reinforcing behind the stud/bolt holes whereas the high mount option only has the 9mm of block.

Hi Gary; I could only get one set to line up Alloy RB26 mounts Engine to subframe mount has not been redrilled Sub Frame has not been spaced down Just out of interest I thought I'd add that I'm running twin turbos, but it's an annoying job. The steel lines that run along the rear of the head are attached by a bracket that is now exactly in front of one of the heater outlets in the firewall and there is no hope of getting a hose on (no problem in a race car but mine isn't), the BOV plumbing under the stock airbox doesn't align anymore, a BOV plumb-back tube into the rear turbo fouls the ps reservoir, and the forward turbo inlet is too close to the AFM when mounted in the stock box so now I need an airbox, which I didn't want. If I can raise the stock box 38mm or so it should be fine, just need to get the clearance to do it and then extend the BOV plumbing under the airbox by 38mm and get the ps reservoir reprofiled to accomodate the plumb back pipe. There were also a couple of people on here stating that a 149 tooth belt and two tensioners in the stock location will work. I reckon bollocks unless you're using a really thin head gasket and have skimmed the block and head quite a bit. If it works for others great, I tried this combo and it was so tight the only way to get the belt on was to set it up, back the tensioners off all the way, tighten them and then lever the intake cam sprocket over the cam snout - not something I'd recommend. I'd seriously consider going to the high/low configuration but the thing is in the car now so not sure if I can get the hole drilled perpendicular. Looking at making up a plate that moves the one tensioner outwards slightly and then finding a belt to fit. Also tried a 150 tooth belt as per the guide but could not get enough tension unless the teeth were almost touching. Joy. Better be bloody worth it. Meanwhile I have an RB26 sitting there on a stand, that could have been rebuilt and running months ago with no engineer cert hassle etc and a nice 300 rwkw. Cheers

Hi Cubes; you might wish to make an addition to the Guide that indicates when fitting an RB30 to an R32 GTR, the twin turbo pipe and the bonnet reinforcing does not allow the bonnet to close. I think there is an expectation out there that there is no problem. I'm looking into fixes such as cutting away the reinforcing. Also on the guide, it suggests a cam belt tension of 20kg as in the manual, but 20kg measured against what? in the absence of a deflection measurement f some kind i'm not sure how the 20kg is applied? Cheers