Scooby

can't a portapowa be used for this?

blah queensland blah blah

pm sent

Thanks Paul, makes a good argument for trying 4.11s before I take the plunge with 3.5s. Cheers

any advances on whether it's possible to change the front diff in the GTR without pulling the engine?

Hi Gary: it's not the top speed I'm wanting, it's the legs in lower gears. i know someone with a GTR and 26/30 and he suggests that it feels very short in the gears, from memory Cubes has remarked on the same thing. i would like to take the drive it first then decide approach, i understood that getting the front diff out with the engine in place was almost impossible.

guys you need to consider the other stuff that goes on in your engne that you can't see. temp measured at one point can be a misleading indicator. most engines have awful cooling systems even though they don't overheat and puke coolant - they're awful because they allow hot spots, localised boiling and a number of other sins usually due to air in the water jacket and poor pump pressure. ideally the thing should run at the highest EVEN temp ie even throughout the block temp it can stand without boiling as this improves effciency and therefore hp/qty fuel(BEMP?). i suspect that is the basis for SK's comments re getting more power at 85 deg than 70. the trick is to have a cooling system that is well engineered enough to do that and that includes a deaeration tank, air bleeds if required and a really, really good water pump.

PM sent

still wanting to run either 3.7 or 3.5 ratios, rarity of 3.7 looks like it will have to be 3.5 which means 34 GTR. i think the 34 and 32 housings are the same but not sure if the internals are the same, and i'm under the impresson that that all 34s have active diffs. does anyone know if the crown and pinion from a 34 will bolt into an R32 GTR and work, particularly if my assumption about the 34 diffs all being active is correct?

get em while they're hot... congrats on getting the beast to run.

nice work

maybe check the end float on the crank. if there was too much end float or the crank was able to move back and forth along its axis for some other reason it would do so when the clutch was manipulated. if the crank moves far enough it will shift the bearings and there goes your oil pressure. IF the clutch and stalling are really related rather than seeming to be that way, it could be that when the clutch is depressed it moves the clutch and flywheel - and crank if there's enough float - so far that the side loading on the pistons creates enough friction to stall the car at idle. this suggestion could be really wide of the mark but it's the best one i can think of.

Hi Bill: I'll take the injectors if you can do them for that price COD to Canberra.

not me

come on, tell us, who has been treating you badly?

beauty, i'm assuming the pitch is correct for our sprockets?

and so you should, respect works both ways. off topic but how are you going with the seats? in yet?

come on guys, give old people a break. they can be painful, frustrating, annoying and even dangerous. but they are so vulnerable that everything is intimidating in a society that generally respects nothing these days except the $, and since most old people have no $ they are often considered a burden on society and useless. try that for a 'place to be at' in your head when a lot of their friends/children died protecting our freedom, and they put their lives on the line to do the same for us. because despite how good you might have once been, when you know you're slow in the head, and don't even have the stength to defend yourself against a 12 year old kid, life sucks. hard to imagine? wait long enough and you'll find out. for some old people even going outside the house is a matter of survival and takes more courage than most people ever need in their lives. and the real kick in the ass is that all of us who get to be that old will experience what i'm talking about. maybe time to start a fund for the SAU retirement home. i remember that 8 sec pass I did blah blah blah. girfriends still over in the corner pissed at us for talking cars. sitting on the balcony giving the forks to V8 drivers. usual stuff really. rant over. oh and enough of the EL2 antichrist stuff already! nah, bring it...game on

i think so from what I understand, not sure about the value or durability

Thanks guys!

bump

Guys: I'm mating a GTR box to an RB30, anyone know for sure if I need an RB26 or RB30 spigot bearing? Or are the the same? Any advances on the T306 belt fitment yet? Cheers

now $150 pickup ono, please PM me if interested. I'd prefer a local buyer but will post on FS forum if there are no local takers. Must be someone that wants to stop valve bounce? Cheers

4 thou seems standard for forgies, unless they're coated like Mahle or Super Tech which run around 2.5 thou recommended. Not withstanding that you ran the ACLs tighter, which could have helped address a tendency towards slap when cold, I know the ACLs have a different skirt design that combats slap. Cheers

Special or 'Speshhhhiaaaallll'? Absolutely if you're getting the same reliable solid performance out of yours.