Scooby

you'll probably need to machine bosses into the girdle too.

Argo didnt always do them but do now, and unless I'm míssing something there's: http://splparts.com/Parts/Z32/Engine/JWT/JWTConrodsZ32.jpg http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/c...le-crower-2.JPG http://www.ttzed.com/products/productimage...RS6071N3D_t.jpg ~3-4psi in fourth gear at 60km/h ~1900rpm up Flagstaff is impressive. Cheers

Thanks Michael. Shane they serve to reduce the amount of oil that adheres to/contacts the crank. They are also known as a windage tray. I wondered if it might be a good idea to leave them out since there aren't any oil squirters, although my conrods have the oil notches in them.

so I assume it's prob not the pfc entirely, although the symptoms may have changed a little due to the pfc settings. it sounds like an AFM to me but I don't know what the machine gun sounds are from. if it was making them only after the pfc it might be the ignition settings. either way just go back to the stock ecu and start diagnosis from there at least you have a known start point. use the self diagnostics to see if it's a sensor fault.

excellent thanks

Guys; the RB26 hs two crank scraper/windage plates that bolt to the girdle. the RB30 doesn't. what are most people doing - adapting the plates to the RB30 girdle or not? Cheers

thanks, anyone know what the temp one is?

anyone know what size the threads are?

under what circumstances did it fail? did you take it back to Nissan? they don't seem to have seen much evidence of pump failure even with all the N1 pumps supposedly going bang lately.

Don't let them get away with this, it's too easy to pull the 'can't do anything card'. This is a clear case of unprofessional behaviour be it by the uniformed or non uniformed people in that agency. You have phone records to show the date and duration of calls, and you have a clear recollection of the conversation. If you behaved reasonably - only you and the person taking the call will know that for sure, and remember no one could blame you for showing frustration - I would not hesitate to report this in writing. Unfortunately it takes a bit of work but they must also reply to you in writing. When certain agencies and individuals either get misinformed or do not bother to find out what they are supposed to be doing it causes insult to injury. Given the circumstances in which people generally interact with this agency - usually when someone has been seriously aggrieved - they need to do a whole lot better.

Guys if you feel that you are being shafted - and most people know when things are out of hand - you need to go straight to the Office of Fair Trading website and lodge a dispute. We like to think that we can have a conversation, agree a price, and get what we expect. Problem is that if it goes wrong it can go really wrong, and there needs to be some work done to avert that ie get written quotes particularly on the big $ stuff. Not trying to tell anyone how to suck eggs, and it's been said a thousand times before, but GET QUOTES. I've negotiated quotes at length to make sure the vendor knows what I expect and that I know what I am or aren't getting. If a workshop does in fact try to take advantage they need to be hammered for it. Luckily I have not had a problem with anyone local. Cheers

so it's actually running?

tossers on ebay who describe stuff as mint when it's not, and then use dumb ass excuses like: 'yeah i noticed that before the end of the auction but couldn't revise the description' (but still managed to send it after i payed) or 'well it was described as mint, and it is...it only had a small external part broken off it.' fark!!!

spoken to Rush and they seem good, but not keen on skylines.

and if I could afford one I would...

yesterday at about 4pm, gunmetal R32 GTR with big wheels on Majura Ave. awesome vented bonnet. very clean looking car.

alternatively, have a look and you'll see the runners are probably rivetted to the frame. figure out how far back the runner needs to go, and have a close look at how they are riveted. i did this when doing a conversion and there just happened to be unused holes that lined up perfectly if i drilled out the rivets and moved the runners back. i used bolts to hold it together, had it welded in the new place and it was perfect.

get a proper oil gauge and monitor it under the conditions that you use the car. then find out what the optimum temp range for your oil is. if it's over, get a cooler. just make sure it doen't run too cool when you're not driving hard.

hi, can you please tell me what rb30 blocks you know of that have broken when used in 4 wd?

so the only holes that don't line up are the ones that anchor the rear of the seat on the outside ie the ones at the front and the ones that anchor to the trans tunnel are OK? if that's the case just take them to a fabricator and tell them what you need, find someone in the yellow pages that does jobbing work ie small stuff. they will want to know the distance between the hole in the seat leg and the hole in the floor, centre to centre. also tell them you want about 10mm metal around the new hole. and make sure you use big ass washers - 20mm diam or so - under the mounting bolts because you don't want them to rip through the anchors. get them from specialty fasteners in Fyshwick. let us know how you go.

oh please

Beau I thought someone told you that it was just a couple of washers etc? Can you post pics of the problem?

how long to go?

Ben did you go to a single? I'm after some water/oil/wastegate plumbing bits for the twins.

sounds good, i reckon you'll be pretty happy. might need a larger turbo to get the best out of the 30, depending on wat you're running now. let us know how you get on.