Scooby

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Hi Stuart, how much for the smooth console facia posted to Canberra? It's the one that surrounds the radio and gauges etc and has the hole for the cig lighter and ashtray. Cheers

it's not complex but the problem is the cost can add right up once you take fitting into account. it's not really new but no one out here does it that much - the culture has generally been 'use a bigger radiator, take out the thermostat etc' because people can't see the boiling in the block and it's also hard to measure. they can see the radiator puking colant but steam pockets are hidden - that's why the good guys like Smokey are good, they know stuff. Chevy is just now releasing heads with coolant passages that have ports half way along. exactly. there's kits and there's kits. the one on exvitermini, jun, etc are the whole enchilada. just getting a reservoir is not going to make much difference imho unless you needed to create a higher fill point for some reason. the water will cool as it comes to the front of the block anyway and the steam will condense if it travels. problem is large steam pockets occur at given points due to localised heat, hence the take offs you see with the jun type kits. the other issue of course is a good water pump. i reckon a good pump will solve most problems given that RBs have a high bleeder.

if you've torqued it down and there is coolant weep then all the hylomar etc will do is create a seal tight enough for you to start it - maybe - and then get lots and lots of coolant weep etc. hell, if the head and block are true it should retain coolant without a gasket at all if it's torqued down. something else is badly wrong. check the bolts aren't bottoming out and the head/block are true.

i've got a set of used 5000s for sale, pm me if you're interested. discs have less than 5000km on them. can do a good price on a set of EBC Greenstuff also. cheers

from memory reds have to be removed to adjust? i agree with to4. put them on the softest setting and enjoy - particualry if it's a remove job to adjust them. it will not bounce unless the springs are a much higher rate than stock, and anything like the hardest damper setting is likely to remove fillings.

don't get carried away with spending money on this mod too quickly, a large school of thought suggests that this is not worthwhile for RBs until the power gets really serious. they are not the boiling prone monsters that a lot of old V8s were (don't know enough about the new ones to comment). there is little doubt a similar system on an old V8 would seriously improve it dramatically, as i found, but make JB prove to you that either power, efficiency or driveability are improved before you spend money on this for an RB. did they talk $ at all? cheers

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i first met john years ago - mad inventor and almost impossible to pin down but what he does is first class. he made a trick cooling set up for my 440 cu in BB Chrysler but not with water jacket take-offs like i understand from Alex, the guy he works with, that they are doing now for the rb. i spoke to Alex recently and he mentioned they were going to do this soon. some discussion of the issue in general is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8&hl=bennet does what john /alex are doing seem similar to the jun set up discussed here?: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...122687&st=0 i haven't seen their system, did you take pics etc? back to back testing would be great and it's the type of thing john would insist on, did you ask them for results?

what size discs do the calipers suit please? do they have adapters?

Hi I'm interested, are there any other markings on the Recaro - on the bottom maybe - that show it as a genuine Recaro? Just a bit confused by the 'designer sport' logo but no Recaro logo. Cheers

barry smith motorsport aka performance friction in canberra. 1223 has the number.

Hi Chris can you please send pics to [email protected] Thanks

Any news Kezza?

I guess temp is not the only determinant of pocket boiling in a pressurised system, the presence of air plays a major - if not the major - part also. Even if there is a relatively consistent temp front to rear, cavitation caused by the pump, or insufficent bleeding will produce air in the system so eventually the water will boil where the air is - for example it will even boil where the engine 'seen' temp is coolest if there is air in the system at that point. So consistent front to rear temp would be great, as long as we can make sure that the air is out. Cheers

not sure, can't seem to remember much...

I'm looking into options for building a baffled/winged sump on an R32 GTR. In determining dimensions, is it simply a matter of figuring out how wide and deep you can make the wings and then plumbing the pickup accordingly? Does anyone have dimensions or pics of their set up that we could see? Cheers

Yes but there's 'work' and 'work'. Does it work when it doesn't puke coolant everywhere in summer and the temp gauge looks good - oem consideration - or does it work when apart from that the front to rear block temp distribution is even and this means all cyl can run on greatest efficiency with no hot spots? In my BB Chry with cooling mods the temp went up but remained rock solid in all ambient temps under all conditions. Hotter but more constant engine temp with less chance of internal boiling meant greater efficiency, more economy, more driveability and power. I'm not tryng to compare the Chry and the car it was in - recipe for boiling for a lot of reasons - with the RB26 as the GTR even has, heaven forbid, a proper cooling system bleeder stock. Most of us would agree that a large temp difference between 1 and 6 in an RB26 would not be a good thing, and we'd also agree that a difference must exist. But does anyone know what it is - circumstance dependant of course? Hands down SK. I'm trying to find out if anyone else knows, to see how prevalent the knowledge is of something that we see every time we look under the bonnet but never really see if you know what I mean. Regards OK SK, how much is it?

I've got some 34 dumps fs if you're interested, they are supposed to be better again than the R33 ones and they look it. cheers

Guys; sharing is good can you post some pics please and a description of what you did? I've long held an interest in cooling systems and elimination of temp differential in blocks - this is an often overlooked area because it's not 'visible'. If only the horrors of some cooling systems were more widely known...interestingly I see the previous edition of HPI has a Jun 2.7 on the cover built by CRD that has a 3 take off points for the cooling system in the head. Now that's what Im talking about. Some say it's only good for big kw engines but I'm not convinced, I experimented with a simple de aeration tank and some other minor mods on a 440 ci Chrysler and the difference was amazing. Regards

Guys; Just wondering how RB30s are treating hard driven (not abused) GTR and RB25 gboxes. I did a search on 'gearbox' here and got some threads from 2003 but that was it; found references to 320 rwkw being well wthin the capacity of the RB25 box, and the GTR box running happily with 650 hp (fly I assume) but not much on torque capability. I'd hate to have to detune an RB30 so that the gearbox will live and I don't want to shell $5k for a gearset. Cheers

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Carbotic clutch plate and large size pressure plate

if the clutch was slipping the revs would go up ie flare, not stay constant so it's unlikely to be that. is it a hesitation in the engine that you are describing?

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