Scooby

I agree. Heads don't 'bleed themselves' - there is either compression or not. The fact that there appears to be no leakage is intriguing though.

Hi Hayden; on most oem cars the booster is attached to the firewall and the mcyl to the booster. under hard braking the firewall distorts and therefore interferes with the pressure applied to the mcyl through the booster. the stopper bears against the front of the mcyl and therefore creates more resistance against the firewall ie reduces the amount of the distortion. i have never heard of a travel adjustment being required and i don't see why it would, as it just a brace. if you are getting that much take up it sounds like you may have air in the brake lines or stuffed fluid. try replacing the fluid and bleeding the lines properly. if it's spongy also this is likely the cause. i once had a leaking booster an it caused disconcerting inconsistent pedal pressure also, a $200 reco and the problem went away. check your pads. hard pads can provide minimal bite at cold temps and give the impression of travel. cheers

Getting some questions re application, temp etc. This comes from the RPW Motorsport UK site: Fast/Heavy Street Use. This does not need warming up before being used and is effective to above 650°C. This is a low dust formula and is what we recommend for the majority of our vehicles and applications on front brake rotors. Triple Max Power Award winning Greenstuff are the ultimate performance/fast street brake pads you can get for your hot hatch or sport compact. These pads have a high friction coefficient, great initial bite from cold, right up to a blistering 650 degrees centigrade. Another major benefit of the Greenstuff compound is its award winning feature of being LOW DUST. Being awarded the UK magazines Auto trade Innovation Award for its low dust features, Greenstuff pads cut down between 60-90% of the dust common with most competitive types of semi-metallic pad on your alloys keeping wheels cleaner and delivering performance at the same time.

Hi Sieng, I've had two offers of $500 already. Thanks anyway.

Brand new. $150 plus $10 reg post or pickup in Canberra. PM me if interested. Cheers

bear in mind they are a bastard to dissassemble so it's likely to cost you a bit anyway.

so with a 26/30 TT config engine using all of the standard bolt on parts I need to do nothing different to a normal RB26 engine r and r except lengthen the dumps and the above mentioned earth strap, and tune? i guess fmc plumbing too..but that's ALL?

worth at least 25 rwkw when i did mine :laughing-smiley-014: i've never noticed any difference with a reset. no wait, i have...usually pissed off because battery has been disconnected and i need to reset the radio.

Thanks guys, thats helpful. I'm interested because a company in the US called RacingBrake has released a 6 pot caliper/adapter/disc/pad set for the 350Z/G35 that's about AUD 2500. http://www.racingbrake.com/350Z_G35_03_05_...026-311-611.htm Being the US they don't have access to GTRs like we do so I thought I'd see if anyone knew if they were compatible. Regards

Guys I posted this in the RB26/30 thread but hope those here who have done the RB30 conversion might be able to help... 'What issues have you found that are created by the extra deck height? Dump pipe length springs to mind as a 'must do' but what else - 38mm is enough to interefere with a/c lines, ps pump lines, rad hoses, harnesses, earth straps etc. Would be great to know how you've overcome these.' I figure that the RB30 into an R33 has to pose the same type of issues, can anyone here shed light on how they tackled them? The guide mentions ps pump mounting etc but there's not much on ancillaries and other 'detail'. Maybe it's a worthwhile addition to the guide if someone can come up with a list ? Regards

Guys, hope the conversions are going well, please let us know how you're getting on. What issues have you found that are created by the extra deck height? Dump pipe length springs to mind as a 'must do' but what else - 38mm is enough to interefere with a/c lines, ps pump lines, rad hoses, harnesses, earth straps etc. Would be great to know how you've overcome these. Regards

Guys; If Nick doesn't buy the rebuilt engine give me a call we may be able to arrange something. I've got a stock RB26 in a stock R32 that runs extremely well. I've put 40K km on it and compression is even. I would be interested in a stronger unit and if I could shift my stock one as a goer to someone who wants it that would be ideal, as I don't really want to tear down a perfectly good motor. Anyway let me know if you're interested. I'm in Canberra so I expect to travel. Mark 0402 837 117

Anyone here have a 350Z and access to GTR brakes so they could try? Would better if the Z was a convertible... C'mon Duncan do it for the cause...isn't it raining in Sydney anyway?

pm replied

pics?

sorry Nik, only for RB26

anyone know for sure? cheers

Hi Marcus (?), they were checked when I first got them by a local injector guy and then by Advan in Sydney. sorry, don't have any results hard copy. i've had them for about 2 years but never used them. they were purchased from UPI in Melbourne after being taken from a customer's car. i'm going to stay as stock as i can stand so i don't need them anymore. cheers

Hi Neil, The distance between the two outer holes front to back is 400mm. They do not have bracing between the rails, so they can be mounted to any width seat. Cheers

interesting discussion guys but I'm convinced that the coating is a good thing. i intend to get GTR turbine housings, exh manifolds and stainless long-style Trust dumps coated. The thing I'm not sure about is what temp coating to go for. HPC have a low 800C and a high 1200C temp coating plus a variation to increase the temp resistance of the 800C coating. the 1200C coating is around 3 times the price of the 1200C coating, what do you recommend in terms of what to coat in what? cheers

$600 including registered postage.

As the description says - brand new with all fasteners etc, purchased from C-Red Tuning in Perth about 6 months ago for $300 plus freight. Will take $250 plus postage.

pics to [email protected] please

nice work, what sort of crank is it? RB26 rods?