Scooby

exhaust pulse tuning matters most after the port - on an n/a motor it's really significant because the gas path is unimpeded, and scavenging and engine characteristics can be enhanced/tuned by fiddling with pipe length, diameter etc. when you have a turbo whacked into the path of the exh gas it's pretty much all over as long as resistance and turbulence are minimised after the turbo. i've got equal length on my gtr and to be honest i'd rather do without the spaghetti and extra weight.

a lot of people are running DBAs and seem happy. you might also try RDA, lots of people are happy with them too. brake upgrade - try R32 GTR rotors or the Brembos off the R33/34 GTR.

there are threads on this - from memory use mineral oil first and a drive out to Bathurst from Sydney provides lots of load/ speed variations.

alternatively try an amazing site called 'how stuff works' they have just about everything on there.

if the carbon lip is in really good condition can you please send good photos to [email protected]

gunmetal R32 GTR at Jerra shops this morning.

Does anyone know for sure if the standard pedal pads on the R34 GTR (ie rubber and metal plate ones) will fit an R32 GTR?

Guys I'm after the long narrow black channel/seal that clips (1 screw at back end) into the top of the door skin on the outside. Has a rubber seal along it's length that closes the gap between the top of the outer door skin and the driver's side window. Please PM me if you have one you want to move. Cheers

sorry long wategate dumps are all i'm after

thanks for the offer but sorry, no.

anyone?

i'm not a fan of the the autobarn etc ones as they twist and somtimes don't grab 100% due to the angle of the taper on some springs. and they're just awkward and take forever. for $175 most industrial tool places will sell you a big ass thing on a stand that locks the whole assembly in clamps and has a hydraulic ram that compresses the spring using a foot pump. very weapons grade and not expensive compared to what a lot of places charge for r and r of springs etc. huge convenience factor if you change springs a bit and if you share the cost with 3 mates it's peanuts.

writeoff; sorry can't comment on the Greddy ones, i'm biased against most Jap stuff because I believe their damping is not great for what we need here and local stuff is just as good, with better dealer support. Ronin; mate you have to stop this. I've seen posts with Trust extended dumps (if I remember correctly), recently AP brakes and now these...none of it is any good so I'll buy it from you to save you a headache . mine are different - similar configuration but older style without the external reservoirs. they did have those nasty leopard tank springs on them though... cheers

yes standard

ebay does have a claims process and it does work but it's painful. depends how bad you want to get compensation and how bad you want to give them the sh*ts. in the case where i was ripped off it was more closing them down than getting the money. if they are a company with an abn try the local department of fair trading. keep the records of the sale and get into them by whatever means you can. people like this are utter a'holes and it's amazing what a difference in attitude they can adopt when they realise you're not stuffing about. good luck.

anyone know why it's that way? seems strange to me unless there's a reason.

I'm after prices for Ohlins coilovers for an R32 GTR. You can only buy them from Japan where they are made by Carrozzeria under licence - Ohlins Netherlands do not make them for a GTR. Carrozz are helpful but take about 6 months to answer an email and charge like crazy. Does anyone know who distributes these in Australia? No one carries the Jap ones. Steve Cramer products is the Ohlins agent but he will tell you he doesn't want to have anything to do with the Jap stuff despite charging you money to have a look at them. His choice. I have spoken to Megnus Mehlin at Ohlins who admitted that they know the Jap stuff carries their name, know it's not serviced, but don't care because the market is not big enough ie they don't mind if people like us get screwed by the arrangement. That said, I understand that this issue is to be raised at an international dealers meeting later this year. Don't get me started...been there and back with mine. Does anyone know where I can get Australian prices on these? I know I can get them through Slidewize Imports but there is no warranty. I have used SG Leslie at Heidelberg in Melb to rebuild one of them and they were truly sensational, however I'm not sure what the limits of their abilities are as it's a matter of seeing what fits what ie trial and error. Has anyone used either of these coilovers before and can offer an opinion? Yes, Ohlins are excellent. I used 200lb rear and 250lb front springs in my GTR and the high speed damping is excellent but for road use you'll prob not need anything more than minimum rebound. As it is when I dyno'd mine they showed no difference in damping until about position 18/32. This would be very difficult to change because the valves etc are unique. If you use spherical top mounts beware as they are a funny size so you may need to adapt others - small machining job. The standard springs are about 450lb r and 600lb front so utterly useless for most of us, see if you can get them without springs. They will also reduce ride height unless you come up with a custom arrangement, I adapted the standard hats etc and have about 350mm hub to guard. My car came with them but given a choice over again I'd go with Bilsteins revalved to Sydneykid's specs. Cheers

has anyone quantified the gains with one of these? understand the principle but has anything been measured ie laptimes with/without?

nice work, what style of c/f is that - i think they have three ie half weave etc. cheers

bump

Shell=sell? Or have you finally caught up with the roo and you need the money to buy a shotgun?

Sorry Cubes, feel what...? It was literally modest acceleration on a large radius roundabout - exiting actually which is even more surprising because the thing was just about pointing straight - and although I take your point re road surface we're talking about very modest levels of power etc and in third gear. Granted they have lttle weight over the rear axle but they are also quite well balanced normally. I've driven an early model also and it stuck like glue. This was an 05. You usually get some response to the level of correction you provide no matter how bad the surface but the way the thing behaved was like it was on ice or oil, which is not my experience with handling behaviour even in sudden heavy downpours irrespective of road surface or vehicle. I've driven on all types of surfaces all over Australia in all conditions in a lot of different vehilces for different reasons and this was definately close to a 'lose'. That said, it doesn't mean I didn't get caught out but I've recently heard that the MX5 and S2000 are two of the most tyre sensitive cars out there. I guess it was just consistent with previous experiences where tyres have been the cause. Cheers

I wish.

i had a nasty moment on Federals in an MX 5 Turbo. light rain, moderate acceleration and a roundabout and yeeeehaaaaa pendulum time. not sure if they were 595s though.

beware of using anything that is silicon based as can play havoc with seals, might be better to use a good non silicon fluid if it's a daily driver. afaik if the seals are new then you can use silicon ok but if they've been exposed to mineral oil then you shouldn't. the 2500s really are good, and work well at low temp. i've used them on a GTR and they don't squeal with one peice rotors but are beyond belief with two piece.