Scooby

Guys this is a good thread but Whatzis? No discussion of power? LOL Does anyone have dyno figures to show that their 'quiet exhaust' doesn't rob power or perhaps even results in an increase? That would seal the deal for me. I've got a Nismo cat back on a GTR and the final muffler looks awfully restrictive to me in terms of pipe diam. Regards

Thanks SK; It's probably done about 6000km since the rebuild. I'll talk to them, have already spoken to the shop that took it out and they were full of words like 'size of internal parts, mass, old technology' etc but they didn't give me a definitive answer. In particular I don't see why it would do it sometimes and not others. Regards

Hi SK; does that mean you don't think it's worth installing PONCAMs in an RB26 but that adj cam wheels are worthwhile?

Guys; I've had my gearbox rebuilt (was catching on 1-2 too often) with new synchros and bearings and I'm running Motul oil. Problem is that it still sometimes catches 1-2 and 2-3, doesn't matter whether it's cold, hot, hi rpm or low rpm. Only way to guarantee it won't catch is to pause briefly during the shift but that means losing pace. 3-4, 4-3, 3-2 are no problem. Tried different oil and Slick 50 but no change. I know that heavy duty (compared to most other cars) gearboxes like the GTR tend to be a bit clunky due to the sheer size etc of the internals and I don't expect it to be ever be as smooth as a Camry or WRX ie 'hot knife through butter, but I'm not happy about this happening in mine so soon after a rebuld. It doesn't get thrashed and I expected that the shift might be heavy but still smooth with no catching - ever. Rebuild was done by Award in Sydney. Is this just the way they are or should a rebuilt box be like silk? Thanks for any feedback. Regards

Hi Heath; if still available can you please tell me if the rails are for an R32 (looks like it from your avatar?) and if they are gen Recaro. Regards Mark

Hi 7heavn; please keep us posted. myself and a whole bunch of others contemplating the dump pipe question have been hoping for a back to back comparison of some kind for ages. Regards

car looks pretty planted to me, thought it was just the driver that floated about...? Heh heh

Hi John; I have been thinking about having my GTR exh manifolds extrude honed and I understand from their Vic agent that impeller ie exhaust side turbo housings benefit also. Appreciate the flow bench results but do you have dyno charts for comparison particularly on a stock motor? Happy to offer my stock car as a test mule if we can come to an agreement on cost. I also have R34 N1s to add to the equation at the same time. Regards Scooby

Guys; this follows on from a thread on gauge accuracy in an R32 GTR. I understood from a gauge repair place that sometimes if you remove standard gauges (I'm looking at building a custom dash as I don't want to have gauges all over the place) it has undesirable side effects ie I've read a recent thread saying that removal of the oil temp gauge has made the oil press light illuminate but I haven't witnessed this myself. Can anyone definitively state what is required when replacing the standard gauges in terms of wiring etc? Not concenred about power or sensor connections, but anything that might not be immediately obvious such as a connection between computer and gauge that needs to be maintained etc. In other words are there any traps? Thanks Scooby

Hi stav; I'm interested and in Canberra. 0402 837 117. Mark

Hi R31; I'm not sure how the installation of a'mket gauges could, of itself, lead anyone to the conclusion that they are more accurate. More responsive sure, but where's the proof they are more accurate? Has anyone tested the accuracy of standard gauges? Like GTR 32 said 2-3% is pretty good from an analogue gauge. Re the oil pressure gauge taking 10 seconds to react, that's likely to be due to a dodgy sender I'd say. Getting the gauge and sender checked is a lot cheaper than most a'mket gauges. Ronin; I can understand why a temperamental gauge would drive you nuts for sure, but in my case I'm wondering, like GTR 32, why not just fix the standard gauge as it's a cheap process. Regards

OK research reveals that no grain is currently made that closely replicates the standard grain. Which means either put up with the bubbles or recover the entire interior, neither of which appeal to me but biting the bullet and recovering everything is probably the go.

Have run RDA discs on an RS Liberty and can't recommend them enough.

brand new GTR after market Manifold $900 details please?

Dan; looked into this but it's unlikely given the nature of the vinyl and shrinkage etc. Depends how bad, sometime they heat it up, put a glue filled syringe needle through the centre of the bubble, inject glue and press it back onto the crashpad foam. Works sometimes...

thanks Deren

there's a lot of bubbled dashes out there - isn't anyone doing this ?

can someone please tell me where the elec boost gauge sensor is located? looked at the manual and wiring diag but couldn't find any clues. ditto the torque gauge, where is the sensor? thanks

i know...a few things. i have a problem with the start up idle when warm. car starts fine but idles at about 450 rpm, slowly builds to 950 and stays there solid as a rock. happens every time, revving it doesn't help, revs just go back to wherever they were when it was blipped and keep building to 950. cold is fine allround. haven't seen this problem described elsewhere. thanks in advance.

Guys; I know how guages etc work but can someone who knows please tell me: where and how the stock R32 GTR takes it's boost/vac readings. clearly it's an elec gauge, i've been through the manual twice and apart form finding one feed for +ve (boost) and one for -ve(vac) on the wiring diag i can't seem to find the sensor itself, and how it takes torque readings. thing is I'm wanting to regauge the thing but not have more guages than I do now. that means rebuilding / calibrating the existing ones but before I can do that I need to be able to tell the builder how it all works. Regards and thanks in advance

if it was warped dics you'd know when you used the brakes.

fark that movie cracked me up.

Thanks SK; 1. Trying to protect it from detonation....I like the factory system because it's a failsafe, no risk. And that means not incurring RB26 DEBT. 2. While you can prog for some eventualities you can't prog for all. How about bad fuel or a combination of some events you have described, not just the event eg air temp, or water temp in isolation. A combination of big enough (but below programmed threshholds) events might bring about the right circumstances for detonation. Dud injector maybe?Unlikely perhaps but I'm not gambling with a 12k rebuild. 3. I have to rely on someone else to tune it for me. And, as you know, it's all in the tuning. I don't have the expertise to know what to tell the tuner re thresholds, and I have no way of knowing if what they have done is going to protect the engine. 4. I'd rather spend $ and time finding the problem that $$$$ and time rebuilding an engine ie see point 1. I once put the question of knock detector absence to a well respected tuner in Sydney. His response was 'just don't go mad on a hot day'. Please! I'm not going to risk my engine on that basis. I want something that will allow me to flatten the thing under any circumstances irrespective of weather. That may not make him well respected in your eyes but then I doubt he has your experience, unfortunately he's about the best most of us can get access to and I suspect he's conservative. And I still don't know why it's not a standard feature. Regards Hi omg; that would be v interesting. I look forward to seeing something about it.

I've seen two oil pumps in the last two weeks that have had the backing plate screws either undone or only finger tight. Neither have been previously rebuilt. But I reckon in your case something has been lunched.

Me sees post 'Bad shakes'. Me thinks 'stop drinking'. Maybe you've lost a wheel weight, or worse a tyre is starting to delaminate. Was it up/down / sideways / vibration etc can you describe it?